Brucey

Ian, I'm after 1 good 14" silver Minator as my spare has a flat spot in the rim so I can't rotate it with the other wheels on the car. I'd be interested with or without the tyre if it gets left over. Bruce.

Tim, Well done Did you reset the ECU before you started the engine? If not, it may be worth a go. Probably worth re bleeding the coolant system before you go too far, especially the top rad screw and top heater hose. I've noticed that removing that ball bearing from the inlet manifold increases the coolant flow back to the header tank. Apart from a small oil leak at the from the back of the sump, I'm very pleased with mine. I'm going to leave it until after my MOT in a couple of weeks. One word of caution.... Take it easy especially out fo corners in the wet Does your car have to pass a full CAT mot? Bruce.

Thanks Oily (again!) I've only done about 100 miles since putting the engine in. I did think about changing the rear crank seal before fitting it as the engine had been out of a car for an unknown amount of time. I decided not to because the area around it was completely dry. 😔 I can't see any oil on the back of the flywheel (yet) looking through the hole into the bellhousing on the RHS of the engine. Both rear cam oil seals look o.k as well. As I removed the sump gasket to clean everything when I applied the Loctite 574 to both sides about 60 miles ago, I doubt if that is my problem. You can probably tell by now I hate oil leaks as a little bit goes such a long way I can't see any obvious reasons how reverting to a wet sump would cause this problem unless I've missed a breather or something. I'm assuming the dip stick acts as the crank case breather on a wet sump engine. I was quite alarmed that the sump gasket only covered 1/2 the hole that goes from the engine block into the bell housing although the gasket mating surface should easily seal this. Looking through the archives, I see that Phil & Linda had exactly the same problem in Nov 2005 but they never posted the cause I will get a new sump gasket anyway but probably won't fit it until I get the 1800Kss engine through a full emmissions MOT which is due in 2 weeks. As I can't afford to change the 1400ss ECU yet, I may have to put the old engine back in Bruce.

Hi After fitting a second hand wet sump to my replacement R300 engine, I cannot cure a small oil leak. This engine was originally fitted with a Caterham dry sump. The oil seems to come from the back of the sump on the LHS where it joins the bell housing. I have tried removing the sump and applying Loctite 574 to both sides of the (used) gasket but it still leaks. When I removed the sump, I noticed oil in one of the cavities in the top back of the sump casting. When the sump was off, I couldn't see oil on the back of the flywheel so assumed the rear crank seal was o.k. but I'm not 100% sure this isn't the cause 😔 I guess my next step is to buy a new sump gaskit and if that doesn't work to take the engine out to check the rear crank seal. Has anyone else had this problem or got any suggestions? Are there any issues when replacing dry sump systems with wet sumps? Bruce. 574

Adam, If you have any more straight std 14" Caterham Wheels, I'm after one also! Bruce.

Cheers Jingars I'm assuming the R300 has standard pistons and considering the extra torque I think I'll mark the Tacho at 7000rpm to be on the safe side. It may be worth putting another mark on the tacho for changing gear. I guess this would be just after the maximum torque figure. Does 6800rpm sound about right? I'm presuming there is a difference between revving up to say 6800 rpm for short periods whilst accelerating/changing gear and holding the engine at high revs for longer periods during overtaking or going up hills ect! Bruce.

Having now gained a bit more confidence running my 1800 R300 engine that is using my 1400kss EU2 ECU and plenum (but retaining the R300 cams, solid followers & beige injectors), I'm now wondering what gear change and rev limit I should be using. I hardly ever went to the change light or ignition cut out when I had the 1400ss fitted, so would I blow the 1800 up if I reached the 1400ss limits? Currently, I haven't gone over 6500rpm with the 1800 because it pulls so sweetly changing up at around 6K. Looking at the archives, it looks like 7400rpm is the max for an 1800Kss. Does this sound about right? Any advice appreciated. Bruce.

Tim, I fitted my verniers by lining up the marks and fitting the belt with the verniers set at zero (to simulate fitting non vernier pulleys). After fitting and tensioning the belt, I then advanced and retarded the verniers as per Oily's recommendations. I ended up moving the inlet pulley 1 tooth to bring my my vernier adjustment back to zero when measuring the inlet cam lift with DTI's. I think I moved the exhaust vernier by approx 1/2 tooth (from zero) using the vernier adjustment. I have all the bits needed to do cam timing (2x digital DTI's, 1 x analogue DTI, clamp tools, brackets and DTI extensions) if you get stuck and want to check the timing after installation. I can't open your second photo, but the adjuster shouldn't be at the end of its travel. Have you replaced an auto adjuster with a mechanical one? I ditched the spring on my manual adjuster and adjusted the belt tension so that I could turn the belt from the exhaust pulley to the crank pulley through 90 deg with my thumb and fore finger. This is with the slack on the same bit of belt. The engine runs fine like this. My adjuster is smack in the middle of the clamp slot. I have to say it does appear slack on this run when the engine is running but any tighter and you will risk premature wear to the various bearings and belt. Hope this helps, Bruce.

Took my 1800Kss to work today (after finishing it at 01:30 this morning ) I was taking it nice and easy and the extra cc and long first box seemed significant improvements but not mind blowing. On the way home, I pushed it a little harder! Oh-my-god what a difference. I will be treating the loud pedel with a lot more respect from now on! I'd just like to thank every one who has helped me with this conversion by supplying parts and advice. I've got a couple of small jobs to do and a full emissions MOT to get through next month but hey, once you've done an engine swap, everything else is easy! If anyone else is considering the same conversion, please note the following: 1. I can highly recommend it. It transforms the car. 2. It isn't that hard as long as you take it one step at a time. 3. If you want to know anything specific about my conversion, just blatmail me. Bruce. Bruce Edited by - brucey on 20 Mar 2008 18:23:58

Thanks John I'm using the 1400 flywheel and fuel rail/regulator but have replaced the blue injectors with straw injectors as recommended on here. I've also fitted a new set of std 1400ss plugs as I am using the original coil. I know the 1800 hasn't been run for some time so may need to 'settle' down a bit. There is a long grub screw underneath the forward facing ss throttle body that looks like an air bypass for when the butterfly is closed, I was wondering if I should open this up a bit to give it some more air to cope with the extra 400cc when the butterfly is shut on tick over. Bruce.

I started my new (to me) R300 engine this evening for the first time As I hadn't connected the cooling system, I only ran it for 10 seconds or so (on 2 seperate occasions) just to make sure it fired up and I didn't have to pull it out again! My only concern is that although it fired and picked up straight away it was missing on tick over and smelt quite petroly. Even though I reset the ECU, I guess it will run rich with the bigger injectors until it gets enough information from the temperature sensors and lambda sensor to adjust the fueling. I'm assuming a standard 1400Kss ECU is clever enough to do this. I'll finish installing the cooling system so I can get it up to operating temperature and see what happens. Has anyone else who has done this conversion had a similar experience on first start up? Bruce.

Allen, Out of interest, would your car pass a full cat MOT test? I assume your 151 bhp is measured at the wheels and calculated for the engine. As my car is 1993 factory built, I can see this being a problem in about 3 weeks 😔 Worst case senario, I'll have to put the old engine back in for the MOT Bruce Edited by - Brucey on 13 Mar 2008 12:31:00

Allen, Do you remember what BHP your 1800 produced? Were you 😬 or when you went from 1400 to 1800? What year is your 7 and what ignition coil do you have fitted? I will refit the old 'Lucas' type ignition coil to start with, but I also have a later coil that fits to the engine block which I may try to fit later (I'm not sure how compatable it is with my 1993 ECU). Bruce.

Thanks for the explination Johnty, it's a little bit clearer now 😶‍🌫️ I'm running my standard 1400Kss ECU (which I believe a number of others who have carried out this conversion do). Oily said the R300 cams are very similar to the 1400ss ones so I left them in and adjusted the timing to match the ss lifts. I also opened up the inlet manifold to match the R300 ports (which had throttle bodies originaly) The previous owner informs me the R300 engine was fitted with a Caterham Dry Sump System Now I've just got to decide what plugs to fit. Again, I guess I put 1400Kss plugs in to match the original ignition system. Bruce.

Will, A word of warning If your applying a lot of leverage to something at the back of the car while it's on axle stands, make sure you push against the car itself (equal and opposite and all that). I did a similar job on my car and almost pulled it off the stands Bruce.

Thanks Johnty & Allen. I'll try to contact the previous owner to see if he knows which system it had. I really don't want to pull it apart again unless I have to. 😔 It did come minus it's oil filter housing which got me thinking about feed and scavange pumps I guess my other option would be to chuck some oil in and wizz it over with the plugs out to see if I get iol pressure. I haven't fitted the rad or apollo so access to the front is pretty good at the moment. My concern with the fuel regulator is that it may run weak at high revs. Would fitting a higher flow/pressure regulator have any effect on emmisions or does it just return any excess fuel to the tank? Bruce.

Regin, Thanks for the reply. The problem is it didn't have anything fitted to it when I purchased it, so I'm not sure which dry sump system it had. Out of interest, where is the oil pump? Is it an engine out job to fit if I do experience problems with my wet sump system? Bruce.

Hi After spending today fitting my second hand R300 engine into the car, I am now wondering if its got an oil pump It was running a dry sump before I purchased it and I have fitted a second hand wet sump, pick up pipe, windage plate etc. Before I finish the installation, would the original oil pump have been removed to fit a dry sump system? Is there an easy way to tell if it's got an oil pump (without filling it up with oil and turning it over)? While I'm on here, would I be better off fitting an 1800K fuel Rail to go with my beige injectors, or should I refit the 1400Kss unit. I have both but the 1800 unit may require a bit of fettling to join up with my existing plenum and fuel feed. Any help appreciated. Bruce.

Miff, RAW had a similar experience to you and also plans to fit a Duratec. With this in mind he has sold me a load of good quality second hand parts which has allowed me to complete the upgrade my 1400Kss to an 1800Kss. Even though I had the engine, my budget couldn't stretch to things like new clutches etc. Andrews parts were a lot cheaper than new and still perfectly servicable. I'm sure people in the same position as me will be more than happy to help you recycle the bits! Bruce.

John, I have a sump (not Caterham) that was protecting the bottom of my R300 engine when I bought it. I've now fitted a S/H (8mm holes) Caterham sump, pick up pipe, baffle etc). The old one is sitting in my bin ready for disposal at the tip. Your welcome to it if you can arrange collection from Hythe, Kent. Bruce. Edited by - Brucey on 5 Mar 2008 20:48:03

Tim, I blat mailed you last night but it doesn't appear to have got through. Without repeating the sad tale of trying to upgrade my alternator, I'll take it if it is suited to the later sender (stick out the front of the oil filter housing type). Will it match the looks of my 1993 gauge (size and dial face colour? A phot would be appreciated) My e mail address is bruce.yule at tiscali.co.uk Beuce.

Brent, I e mailed you about 11.30 last night but it must have got lost! I was a bit knackered after spending 3 hours up the shed filing and polishing out inlet manifold ports Now you've put me in a 'Catch 22' position I plan to fit my S/Hand R300 lump next week and have a remote sender (from RAW) that will probably require a little fettling and re wiring. The reason I wanted your sender was so I could chuck it straight on to start/check the engine (planned for weekend after next). Therefore I may as well bite the bullet and fit the remote sender from the start unless I can get yours before Sat 8th. To make it simple: If you will take £15 (incl P&P) and chuck it in a jiffy bag before you go on holiday, I'll send the money in what ever form you like by return (can do paypal, cash or cheque). My home e mail is bruce.yule at tiscali.co.uk Bruce.

Brent, Can I have first dibbs on the oil pressure sender please. I'm assuming it's the one with the larger thread (M12?). I'll blat mail you tonight. Bruce. Edited by - Brucey on 27 Feb 2008 12:46:47

CAB, Sort of but not quite as precise as your method. I used an analog DTI for TDC and eyeballed the front pulley travel over the dwell on the DTI. I then started in the middle. I am still not 100% sure what I was meant to do with the backlash/slack in the timing belt when going from timing the inlet cam to the exhaust cam so I allways came up to TDC in the direction of rotation (clockwise) and zero'd my digital (cam lift) DTI's from there. As well as moving the ehxaust cam about 1/2 a tooth on the vernier, I also moved the inlet vernier pulley 1 tooth on the belt to get the correct lifts, so I recon it's got to be a lot closer than it was with the old pulleys. I've just spent 2 hours filing out 1 inlet manifold port to match the R300 head. I tried rotary ginding stones and a small emery flap wheel in an air grinder but the stone just clogs and the flap wheel just polishes. I guess I need a steel rotary burr but the exercise is doing me good! The VVC gaskit Oily supplied is a good match to the head so I'm using it as a template for the manifold. At least I won't keep getting covered in engineers blue now. SKF CRB arrived from CC today, but I was slightly dissapointed it has a plastic mounting unlike the steel mounting on the old (1993) CRB that is still going strong. I also got wacked for about £20 for a Rover 1 way valve so I can remove the charcoal canister. If I'd known it was a Rover part, I'd have looked for one at a breakers as I still need to get some later type plugs for the alternator and flywheel sensor. Bruce.

Hi CAB I used a DTI down No1 plug hole to get TDC. My kids have nicked all my cable ties (they seem to mend everything they own with my cable ties and duct tape!), and I couldn't find any straws to indicate where the pistons were, so I ended up using chopsticks! 😶‍🌫️ (perfect as they have little rings engraved on them to help). I've now fitted the verniers and have got the timing pretty much spot on using 3 Dial Test Indicators. I ended up advancing the exhaust cam about 1/2 tooth from zero on the vernier adjustment. Thanks everyone for your help. I'll let you know if/when it actually starts! Bruce.