Brucey

I've asked this question before, but am still not quite sure what to do. The 205/45/16 rear Michelin Pilots are down to the bars. The spare Pilot is brand new but 12 years old I guess (although no signs of perishing or cracking unlike the tyres on the car!). They have Treadwear 180, Traction A, Temperature A written on them. I bought the car with 2 new 205/45/16 Goodyear Eagle F1's on the front. These are directional and seem to enjoy collecting gravel and firing it in my direction! These have Treadwear 200, Traction A, Temperature A written on them. Currently the car tends to understeer on high speed corners, which I guess is better than oversteering! Eventually I would like to change to 13" wheels (when finances allow), but for now, I'm thinking about putting the spare on and buying 1 new Pilot. Does this sound dodgy? The other possibiliy is to fit 2 new Eagles to keep the tread patterns the same. I could take this opportunity to fit something narrower on the front. I guess the spare would get me out of trouble. I also noticed that Toyo tyres have a similar tread pattern to the Goodyear Eagles. If these are also softer, should I fit 2 of thse to the front? Does a tyre with a treadwear number of 180 last less than one with 200 and therefore give more grip? I'm getting a bit confused trying to decide upon the best and most economical solution. Any help would be appreciated! Bruce.

Thanks Steve, Bob & Elie for your responses, Just a thought: After looking at Dave Andrew's web site, I may be better getting a Sierra gear lever from a beakers to play with. I guess it would need to be a 5 speed with reverse in the same place. That way I can play and replace the original if I don't like it. Also, are there any prefered holes for extracting the old oil. I'm assuming my best bet is the filler hole if I grind down an Allen key to fit. Bruce. Brucey

Thanks Stu, Steve & Jerry, As an ex toolmaker, I may well have a go at your suggested mod. I also noticed a quick shift lever (£70!) and a new clutch (£50) on e bay today. 2 more rather seemingly stupid questions: 1. How do you get the leather tunnel cover off to gain access to the gear lever? It looks like you just lever it off, but I don't want to break anything. 2. If I get the Redline MTL mail order, how much do I need? (I'm guessing 2L). Can I syringe the oil out of the filler hole or the gear lever hole? Doh that's 3 questions! Bruce. Brucey

I have been told I can improve my gear change on my 1993 1400 Super Sport by fitting a quick shift gearlever. When cold, I currently have to change up quite slowly for the first couple of miles. I have been told to change the G.Box oil to something thinner (I can't remember which oil though). I also don't know how to get the old oil out (no drain plug). If I sort this, I would like to fit a qiuck shift lever as I seem to remember that the S4 Elan I had 25 years ago had a much nicer gear change. (the gate was closer on the 4 speed 2000E box). I am assuming this is an easy mod, but don't know where to get them from and how much they cost. Unless anyone has a spare they want to sell? Also, has anyone else done this mod and was it worthwhile? As usual, any help would be appreciated, Bruce Yule, Hythe, Kent Brucey

Thanks guys! I'll pull the little stepper motor thingy off and give that a clean (with the battery cut off activated). If that doesn't work, I'll find someone with the right diagnostic kit to check it. As it's a supersport, I already have an alloy throttle body (K&N filter faces forward), although bigger trophy one sounds interesting. Will any of this help prevent stalling on over run as this problem is really starting to bug me? I am starting to dip the clutch early when pulling up to junktions just in case the engine stalls. Brucey

Many thanks Tony, My 7 is a 1993 with 34,000 miles and reasonably well cared for. I'll try 18psi all round to see what happens. I guess I could put the front tyres on the back and put narrower tyres on the front and hope I don't get a front puncture! What exactly is an IACV? Brucey

1st, many thanks for your responses to my previous questions. Now need help with the following: 1. Tickover fluctuates from 1000rpm (Iassume this is correct idle speed) to 1200rpm (even when hot). Advised to clean pot on throttle body (ref: JZX 2963). Took it off, wiped it and put it on again! (No servicable parts there then). Should I just change it? is it a Rover part? Looked at the stepper motor opposite the pot on the throttle body and checked plunger operated freely, but not sure if I should pull unit apart. I tried resetting the ECU, but no difference. ALSO, engine stalls after going down hills (usually when changing down gear after longish overrun) when engine temp at 90 deg (normal temp). Any ideas? ALSO strong petrol smell after filling up tank. Is this normal? 2. Rear tyres (Michelin XGTV) tyres 205/45/16 will need replacing soon (1mm ish to bar). Front tyres were new when I bought the car (Goodyear Eagle 205/45/16). I know there not the most popular diameter, but I like them. Handling was very skitish, but improved dramatically when I reduced pressures from 45psi (I guess the previous owner pumped them up for winter) to 20psi all round. I also repacked the front wheel bearings and adjusted them until all the free play was just removed when wiggled with the wheels on. (Nuts about 1 flat over hand tight) Should I buy the same tyres for the back that have recently been fitted to the front? Do all 7's understeer on high speed corners? That will do for now, any advice would be much appreciated, Many thanks in anticipation, Bruce (Hythe, Kent) Brucey

Thanks Malcolm & Mav. Semi sythetic or fully sythetic oil ? Brucey

Many thanks Allen and Thinfourth. Your replies are appreciated. Brucey

I have recently purchased the above with 33K miles. Generally, the car has been well looked after with no signs of abuse. Just to get me started, can anyone please help with the following: I'm a competent DIY mechanic (I had to be, I had a Lotus Elan S4 25 years ago!) 1. Rattle from back end when going around bumpy corners fast. On advice, I tried changing the rear De dion bush, but C.Cars gave me 2 bushes and the one in the car looks like a single bush (still in fairly good condition) do I have a later set up, or do I replace the single bush for the 2? 2. Bought a foam baffle (someones having a laugh at £8). Will I need to change the sump gaskit on a 12 year old car and do I have to pay C.Cars over £30 or will a Rover one fit? 3. Tick over sometimes hunts. Reading other threads, looks like I should stop removing the bat cut off and re-set ECU. Is it: Ignition on, throttle 5 times slowly, ignition off? 4. I rarely rev it over 6K (Chris Clark had to show me what the 'other' light on the dash was for!). Can I use semi synthetic oil? How much do I put in for an oil, filter & foam change? I know I need to check the level with the engine running. 5. I extracted a dead felt washer thing from the LH Front wheel. Purchased a new one from C.Cars. are these staight forward to change? 6. I'm still coming terms jacking the car up (Trolly jack). Rear end I use the middle of the De dion tube (after using 2 scissor jacks to clear the silencer across the back, yes if anyone has a cheep side exhaust let me know!) The front 'towing eye' just doesnt look strong enough! then again, nothing else does either! a wooden block on the 'U' section cross member looks my next best option. Any hints? 7. I don't know if its had a cam belt. Even though the car has only done 33K, at 12 years old, should I change it anyway, Is it an easy job and can I use a Rover one? (Ive changed the timing belt on my 205 deisel several times, so now you know why the 7 doesn't get revved too high!) 8. Which W/shop manual/s should I buy (the Caterham one seems a bit 'lacking'!) That will keep me going for a while! Any help would be much appreciated. Bruce. Brucey

Mark, I'm looking for a 7 around your price range. Trouble is I have to sell my Triumph Tiger Cub Trials bike first. I took it to the Telmag trial last Sunday and put a for sale sign on it for £3k (yes it is that good!). I even had Sammy Miller come and take my phone number! If I sell the Cub this week, I'll contact you. If you may be interested in a PX, can you let me know? I realise the Cub isn't exactly 'Racing' unless you include going up hills in pre 65 trials, but you never know! Best Regards, Bruce.

Is there really no one out there with a road going k series 7 in their garage that they no longer use? I guess I'll have to start looking for a nice MX5 then! £8.5k is even getting to the bottom end of the Elise market. Many thanks to all those people who replied with help and advise. I'll continue my quest. Brucey

Many thanks for the advice. You have lifted my spirits! I still can't understand the difference between supersport, supersprint, etc. I thought supersprint had De dion, and supersport live axle, but they both seem to have either!. Is it just engine power? I havn't driven a live axle 7 for over 20 years, but am assuming a De dion setup is better. Any thoughts on this? If I got a X flow, how difficult/practicable would it be to put say a fuel injected zetec engine in at a later date? ie engine mounts, gearbox, linkages, weight, fuel economy/ power etc.

Hi, I've hankered after a 7 since I sold my Lotus Elan S4 some 23 years ago to buy my first house! I'm a bit amased to find most of the 7's I can afford are still using basically the same engine. As I would like to take my 7 to work on sunny days (50 mile round trip), I'm ideally looking for a 1400 K series 7, 5 speed with De-dion, and preferably not on a Q plate. I think I also actually prefer Clam Shell wings (am I the only one left!)and 'Prisoner' wheels. I havn't actually driven a K series yet but I'm not after out & out performance, just that grin I used to get when driving my Elan. I don't mind doing a bit of work (I had to put my Elan back together most weekends) but do not want a money pit. Is there anyone out there who can help? (especially now its started to rain again). I will also consider nice X flow examples as I have to admit the De dion 5 speed Caterham 7 I drove from a dealer was nice but a bit juicy for my taste. I live in kent and am prepared to travel up to 100 miles for the right car.

Hi, I'm looking for a 7 in your price range and don't mind doing a bit of work myself. Can you answer the following: Q plate? No of previous owners? Work req'd for mot? Pictures available? Location? £20 or £50 notes! Best regards, Bruce.