Brucey

Tim, Been there and done that! You have several choices: If your 1400 is around the same vintage as mine (1993), it will have a largish alterator and a vertical oil pressure sensor (with a 10mm thread I think). It looks like your 1800 block used the later (smaller) alternator which has a different oil pressure switch (with a 12mm thread I think). You can: Buy the later type Sender (about £30 from CC), but I'm not 100% sure your alternator (if its the larger one) will clear it. Use the oil filter housing and sender from your 1400 (the old gaskit should be o.k, but only cost 50p anyway) Make up a remote pipe/adaptor and fit the sender somewhere else. I got some second hand bits to allow a sender to be fitted to the RHS of the engine out of harms way. I'm also fitting a later alternator and alternator bracket. (Thanks to RAW) Hope this helps, Bruce.

Thanks Oily, I'm off up the shed then with a bit more confidence. Bruce

Has anyone measured and noted R300 cam lift with standard pulleys fitted 🤔 I suppose I may as well fit the verniers and adjust the cams to Dave A's settings. Bruce.

O.k. I've refitted the Rover Pulley's (with the dowel holes in the correct position this time!) along with a mechanical tensioner and new VVC Cam Belt. I'm still a bit perplexed. I've measured the lift (R300 engine that used to be fitted with throttle bodies) and keep getting 26" (thou) inlet & 89" (thou) exhaust. I've checked and rechecked the timing and assuming the belt stays tight between the exhaust and crank pulleys, it's spot on. (I can get 1/2 tooth out if I make this part of the belt slack). Dave A ( 😶‍🌫️) recons this should be set at 80" inlet & 60" exhaust for throttle bodies. I'm fitting my ss plenum & ecu, so will set 60" inlet and 45" exhaust when I fit the verniers but I'm finding it hard to understand why the Rover Pulleys are so far out unless I'm a tooth out somewhere. I wish I'd looked a bit more carefully before I took it apart (or even checked the lift ), but as far as I can remember, it all lined up when I put the cam locking tool in. Is this amount of variation common using Rover Pulleys? Bruce.

CAB, Many thanks for your advice 😶‍🌫️ I refitted the original sprockets as you suggested and immediately noticed the 'Exhaust' and 'Inlet' dowel positions on each sprocket. I had the camshaft dowels ligned up with the wrong ones. Now it all corresponds to Oily's instructions. (both vavles on 1 or 4 just open at TDC) I'm just hoping I haven't bent any valves, although I was very careful turning the engine over and I'm pretty sure I didn't feel anything touching. Now I have the correct starting point, I'll check the lifts with the original sprockets and then refit the Verniers. Right, off back up the shed then to put the Rover pulleys back on the old 1400 engine the right way too Bruce.

As the title suggests, I have a Pair of Piper Verniers (blue, 4 clamp screws, 1 off dowel slot). Before I removed the R300 pulleys, I marked them with the crank at 90 deg. I set the verniers at 0 and popped them onto the R300. They were marked 'inlet' and 'exhaust' when fitted to the 1400ss and I put them in the same cams on the R300. When fitted to the R300, the inlet is 4 teeth out (clockwise) and the exhaust 3 1/2 teeth (anti clockwise). I then swapped the pulleys (intet to exhaust and exhaust to inlet) and the 1400 marks were a lot closer. Inlet cam 1/2 tooth out anti clockwise and exhaust 1/2 tooth out anti clockwise. Without answering my own question, I guess I have to rename the pulleys and dial the 1/2 tooth out when I check the valve timing with my DTI's at TDC. I'm assuming the verniers will adjust by at least 1/2 tooth. I'm just not sure which tooth to put the belt on and if I will damage the engine by turning it to TDC with the timing belt potentially 2 teeth out (1 tooth each way). If I set the verniers to DVA's reccomended 'safe' position, do I just put the belt into the closest tooth on the pulley? Any help appreciated. Bruce. Edited by - brucey on 25 Feb 2008 17:59:59

Tim, The only argument I can see against fitting cap heads is that it's slighty harder to position the exhaust gasket, although it hasn't been a big problem to me in the past. My car did start off with a very complicated internal exhaust system and this may be the reason the factory fitted cap heads. I gave them a good smear of anti sieze compound when I fitted the side exit system about 2 years ago. When I lifted the engine, I made a bracket/lifting eye to fit onto one of the middle exhaust holes and tied a strop around the inlet manifold. The exit angle was pretty well spot on. Bruce.

Cagey, My car had cap head bolts holding the exhaust manifold on. I've never had a problem getting the bolts out, just extracting it from the engine bay! Bruce.

Tim, I removed the exhaust from the side of the car first. I undid the manifold but there wasn't enough room to get it out! I then did what I should have done in the first place and removed the alternator (big 1993 1400k ss one), water rail, radiator, header tank and apollo. I attached the hoist, took the weight and removed the bolts at the rubber mounts. I also loosened them at the engine. As soon as the engine seperated from the box (get someone to push the clutch pedal while you pull the engine forward), I removed the mounts from the block. I also stuck bits of pipe insulation on the diagonal braces. Be prepared for various liquids to dribble all over your garage floor! Don't forget to diconnect silly wires like the flywheel sensor. Have fun! Bruce.

I made a significant improvement to my car by replacing the std Cibie upgrad units with Ring units. The glass is a slightly flatter on the Ring units with square edges. I think they are intended for upgrading classic Mini headlights. They fit the std bowls better than Cibie's (don't rattle around). Come with side lights and Halogen bulbs. The best bit is they only cost around £30 a pair The car has been through 2 MOT's with them fitted with no problems. It may just be a case that the old reflectors were becoming tarnished (they were fitted to my 1993 7 when I bought it), but I am very pleased with the performance. Bruce.

Lowlander, I replaced the solid plastic one from my 93 1400K ss with the later metal one because I thought it would be easier to read the level. They are both the same length to the level marks. The older (solid plastic) type one just sticks down a bit further into the bottom of the sump which helps when filling it with oil from empy. If you get stuck, I think I've got the old one in the attic, although there are lots of K dipstick around (from dry sump conversions). Hope this helps, Bruce.

Hello blatchatters I've now removed my 1400K engine and 5 speed box ready to swap some bits and fit my 1800K engine (which I recon will be good for around 140bhp). I'd dearly love to put a longer 1st in the box whilst its out but don't have £500 + in my budget ☹️ What is the cheapest anyone has managed to do this? For example buy the bits and fit them myself. (are other mods required?) Has anyone with an 1800Kss fitted a BGH E2 gearbox conversion? 1st - 2.98 2nd - 1.97 std? 3rd - 1.37 std? 4th - 1.0 std? 5th - 0.82 std? Will I get away fitting just a clutch plate with 43K road miles? This would leave more money for the box. Any help appreciated. Bruce. Edited by - brucey on 30 Jan 2008 23:47:27

No problem, I'll drag it out of the attic and check my e mails for your address when I get home. With a bit of luck it should be in the post by the weekend. Bruce.

Pierson, I think I have a good condition used std size (7 1/2"?)Cibie unit in the attic. I broke 1 trying to stop it flopping around in the headlight unit, gave up and bought 'Ring' replcement units (classic Mini size) which give a really good beam and fit better. If you want it, blat mail me your address and I'll post it to you. I'll pay postage if you make a donation (as you feel fit) to NTL. Best Regards, Bruce.

Thanks for all your advice guys. I'm just getting to the point of no return (exhaust is off and fluids about to be drained). I think it's now just a question of plodding my way through the transplant methodically. Bruce.

O.K., I feel a bit better now! I'll take my chances with the MOT emissions. I should get a good 2 months worth of driving in before the MOT is due anyway 😬 OpLoc, I'm assuming you reused your std 1400K ECU, but that wouldn't explain what you were doing hanging around Emerald's place getting your BHP checked The spigot brg is already in the R300 crank and I'll check the length of the input shaft when the engine's out. Did you go for a 'long first' box and lightened flywheel? What year is your car? Just off to the garage now to drain some vital fluids Bruce.

Thanks for the info so far guys Myles, You've got me worried now. I had not anticipated any flywheel problems, I'll check the archives. Mick, How did you know I had an Apollo I would feel happier about the whole project if someone else who has carried out the same conversion can confirm the their 1800ss passed a full emissions MOT test using 1400ss plenum and ECU. Bruce.

Hello fellow blatchatters I've just put my Caterham up on stands ready to put in my R300 engine but have a few questions before I take out a perfectly good 1400 engine! 1. I intend to refit the 1400 flywheel and run the existing EU2 ECU. I also intend to fit the verniers from the 1400 (along with a VVC cam belt and mechanical tensioner). I intend to remove the carbon canister thing in front of the drivers footwell. I am fitting beige injectors to the 1400ss inlet manifold. QUESTION: Will any of the above reduce my chances of passing a full emissions test during the MOT (1993 Factory built car requires full test) 2. Is it o.k to support the car with 2 axle stands at the back and 1 in the middle of the crucifix at the front so I can get my engine hoist under the front of the car? 3. How much do I need to take off before removing the engine? I.e. Rad, alternator, plenum, steering column etc. 4. Where is the best place to attach lifting strops to a K series? I.e. Would it be better to make and fit some lifting eyes somewhere to get the correct angle. 5. How easy is it to drill & tap the hole to convert to a mechanical cam tensioner? I'm assuming I use a pilot drill first. Is it better to make a template from the old block or just mark it out? 6. I think there is a slight oil leak from the gearbox. I intend to take the engine out without the box (my garage isn't long enough for both at the same time!). Is removing the box straight forward? I.e. mounts, speedo drive etc. I haven't taken a engine out for over 30 years. Life seemed much easier when I was young and ignorant. Any help appreciated. Bruce.

Dave, I'll take some photo's and send them to you if you blat mail me with your e mail address. Bruce.

Lowlander, I bought a pair of s/h Caterham wind deflectors for my 7. They were noticably better than running without doors. I drove the car with the deflectors fitted (at about 50 mph) and pushed it 'open/forward. The buffetting reduced until I reached a point where moving them made no more difference. I noted the gap at the bottom (around 30mm), placed the bottom of the deflector in a pan of boiling water and bent the radius a bit more. I aso fitted longer rubber stops (screw on type) to the bottom. This all sounds a bit more complicated than it actually was, but I am really pleased with the results for a total outlay of £25 as it makes a significant difference. I have to admit the doors make me feel a lot more secure if I'm travelling any distance. I have also tried Jill Judd 1/2 doors and deflectors which are o.k, but still not as good as doors alone. If your ever near Hythe in kent, your more than welcome to try my deflectors and 1/2 doors. Hope this helps, Bruce.

James, YHM ref the pads. Bruce

2nd dibs on the exhaust if it's complete and would compliment my 1400Kss to 1800Kss (ex R300)upgrade. Jon, are you going to the Talmag Trial at Hungry Hill on 27/01/07? Bruce.

Trevor, Been there, done it! Just a couple of points that may or may not help! 1. If you have already rounded off the allen key head, it's unlikely putting the right size imperial or slightly bigger metric one in will help. Instead find a slightly bigger star key as this will 'roach'/grip into the mullered hex head better. Use the type that fits into a socket (1/4 drive is o.k) 2. I removed the wishbone/shock assembly to allow me to hold the assembly on something firm whilst hammering the star bit in. I also held it in a vice whilst undoing it. 3. Definately use as much heat as you can. I used a plumbers blow torch as I was changing the shock bushes and repainting the wishbones anyway. This will soften any locktite and free off corrosion. 4. If possible keep pressure on the socket whilst trying to turn it. I put the whole assembly in my vice but have successfully used G clamps in other similar situations. 5. Once it starts moving, keep applying penertrating oil and it should come out easily. 6. You will need to get replacement bolts from CC as they are imperial and high tensile. (one of the reasons I decided not to try and hacksaw mine!) 7. Just take your time! the more cheesed off you get with it, the more expensive it will be! Try a search. You're not the only one who's had this problem. Hope this helps, good luck! Bruce.

Tim, Wouldn't an air imact wrench do it? You can pick compressors up cheap from Aldi, borrow one or chuck the engine in the boot and take it to a garage. I would have thought the impact action would do the trick. In fact I hope it does because I've got exactly the same problem Bruce.

If it helps, I've just looked at the Alternator and its Bosh.