bstark

That's another benefit of 3D - I'm getting a heady 26mpg from the xflow now 😬 (up from 23mpg with the Aldon)

Hi Oliver, It's MJLJ v4.0 instructions v1_1 according to the software guide, and configurator v4.02 It's a prolific device that I am using. The baud rate of 4800 is according to the manual...

Yep - the problem is that though the laptop now shows a com port, it won't let me change the baud setting (or rather it lets me doesn't actually change it ). I'm trying to source an older laptop but am rapidly running out of time. ☹️

Aaaaaarrrgh!!! I've got the car booked in for its mapping session first thing on Thursday and now I find our laptop won't talk to the Megajolt... As it worked on 7 Indulgence's machine I stupidly assumed it would work on mine. First problem - no serial port... Ok, went to Maplins, got a USB-Serial convertor. It installed fine but for some reason when I try and change the baud rate to the specified 4800 it doesn't do anything - just reverts to 9600. This may be a red herring but I'm guessing its why it won't talk to the unit in the car. Both com port and configurator are set to Com 3. The laptop is running Windows 7. Any ideas? I'm currently looking at having to cancel the session at last minute if I can't resolve it... 😔

I'd echo George's comment about 3D ignition, regardless of the cams you end up with. The difference in low-mid range torque, particularly on part-throttle was astonishing on a xflow with a 234 cam (by no means the hottest) when switching from a dizzy to a Megajolt.

I do Live axle, 4 speed, xflow on Megajolt. I'm now running a 3.63 Jigsaw CW&P and it suits the car perfectly. The ATB is really progressive and gives a lot more confidence both on road and track. Personally I love it 😬

Mine runs on V-Power and always has since its been available. So far

That's well worth knowing - thanks for that About to tackle the rear pads myself having had first hand experience of our local dealer...

I'm guessing this is something to do with some cold running mechanism, but I haven't experienced it before. Car is a 2006 Mazda 3 Sport 2.0. Symptom is that as the temperature gauge gets close to the normal running temp (so I'm guessing close to where the thermostat would open) the throttle gets very stiff on a light opening, to the point where it is impossible to drive smoothly in traffic. Then once the engine is at normal, the problem goes away. This is sometimes accompanied by some odd noises from the engine bay, as if someone is rolling a couple of marbles around . It's worse in cold weather as the engine takes longer to warm and the stiff throttle period lasts longer. Any ideas?

Peter - no worries SM25T - Groans George - that's what I've been thinking... It's so much torquier low down and on part throttle that it doesn't feel as fast as it used to at the top end - but the speed with which you can overtake people 2-up now suggests the opposite... I've heard mixed reports about Sanspeed who are the most local Megajolt tuners to me - unless someone knows an alternative RR in Kent?

I'm aware this could be a case of "it depends", but before I part with more hard earned this year on a mapping session I was wondering if there is a rule of thumb on safe maps? The engine is a Steve Parker Racing xflow on twin 40's with a 234 cam. It was treated to a Megajolt last year and on the safe map feels very torquey and revs very cleanly. The extra low down torque means you don't feel the power grow significantly at higher revs - but this could be the map... Has anyone with a similar spec had before and after runs done? Just wondering what the difference was?

The quality of the Jigsaw cw&p is in a different league to BL NOS Looks like they do a 3.27 for the Spitfire at least here so worth a call. Have a 3.63 in my 4 speed Supersprint and found them very pleasant to deal with. R+R did the work via 7 Indulgence.

Speak to Grahame Green (was 7 Indulgence). Not far from Brands and has always done a top job on my car. Blatmail me if you want the number.

7 Indulgence made this mod for me a couple of years ago as the light weren't coming on unless I was pretty much emergency stopping... The car is back with Grahame at the moment for a service so can't take a photo right now but if you haven't had a result by the time it comes back (next week I guess) then I'll happily take some for you. Just blatmail me your details. I think they fabricated a small bracket to take a BMW motorbike microswitch from memory.

Hmmm... If it's not consistent, and it's full load high rpm (as opposed to full load lower down the range) then I would be thinking fuel related personally...

'Tis only a thought, but my car only has 4 speeds - how much do your authorities know about the spec of your car? Wondering if a cheap option is a 4 speed gearknob, and then take off in 3rd (as "first" gear) - especially if you can use a temporary plate to restrict the gearlever so 1st and 2nd aren't accessible. 3rd then equals 5th with minimal cost 😶‍🌫️

Ouch! Given damage has been done its probably best to have a 7 specialist go over the whole car and see if they spot anything... Bad luck Bob Stark Supersprinter

Tony, It's a scary feeling isn't it . What I would say is that whenever I have had something broken on a car / tyre gone etc. then I can definitely feel it in normal driving afterwards. In my case it was definitely the road conditions and the car has been fine since. How does yours feel? Bob Stark Supersprinter

In a straight line I have had this on a dual carriageway in close zero degree temperatures, and a slippery wet road. The road was uphill and the camber was enough for the car to snap violently in 2nd. I gathered it all up but it took me both lanes to do it, which was a bit of a worry. It was extremely slippery though as touching the throttle afterwards lightly was enough for the back to step out. Just wondering if there was a bit of oil around for you? Bob Stark Supersprinter

If you can read this then yes

SWMBO's standard '72 Midget still has 145's on it and they suit the car really well. Plenty enough grip, and the suspension is pretty soft anyway so you don't really notice the big sidewalls if you drive it in a classic, 'flowing' style. We just bought budget tyres and they've been fine. My Mum's '73 Midget (now sold) had wider minilite copies (bought through the MGCC) with 165/70's on (I think they were Kumho, but certainly nothing exotic) and you could be more of a hooligan with it, chucking it in, sliding the tail with roll oversteer, so it depends what you're after in the driving experience. If it has standard brakes then definitely upgrade the pads to Mintex M1144 - makes a huge difference (from frankly 'scary' to acceptable in modern traffic). Great fun cars to own Bob Stark Supersprinter

for GAZ for me, and at a sensible price. From memory 270lb front springs on my road/sprint/trackday xflow - live axle, though. Bob Stark Supersprinter

Eric, My car was a 1600 Sprint when I first tested it (not that I knew it during the test - long story) and subsequently had a new Steve Parker Racing 1700 engine to Supersprint spec fitted prior to my picking it up. Basically, I found it transformed the car - went from feeling quick-ish and capable but not extending the chassis to simply feeling alive. All things are relative of course (and this was at the time on rock-hard Goodyears, but over the years as I've improved the car I have never once wished I had kept the original engine. Quite the opposite in fact. All I would say is make sure you get it properly set up - mine wasn't initially and it drove horribly off-cam, then came alive all rough and guts. Once it had seen a rolling road and had the timing and carbs properly set up it was as smooth and tractable as you like. With a Megajolt it's almost modern-car like in its tractability but with that lovely twin 40 throttle response and noise. I occasionally wish for more power (who doesn't) but the car is pretty nippy on track (has a local class championship trophy to back that up), great on the road and if something happens to the engine I'd still stick to the 234. Bob Stark Supersprinter

My Supersprint with 234 cam used to come on cam about 3000rpm, then pull to 6000rpm when the power would start to tail off (that's with an Aldon Ignitor). Now on a Megajolt on a safe map (so not optimised yet) and it pulls from nearer 2000rpm, then hard from 3000-6500rpm plus (probably higher but don't want to push my luck ) Suits the car very well, and no problem with it just have the 4 gears. Bob Stark Supersprinter

Just to add to this, I had the CW&P replaced a couple of years ago when the whining got too much with a good OE Ital one from R&R - Brands GP and R888's destroyed it (oil surge, despite overfilling and a professional build) halfway through the day. 😔 Had a new Jigsaw CW&P fitted and the axle is completely silent (has a Quaife ATP in it as well) and (fingers crossed) has stayed that way 18 months later. I personally wouldn't consider an original Ital component for the CW&P if going on track. Bob Stark Supersprinter