L66TEY

I've got a spare one.... it's bounce off the back once But is functional - if of interest I'll take pics and share. Chris

I'll try my best Albeit, the spinning up was mainly coming out of hair pin turns (Bedford Autodrome) and from talking to Phil at R&R he put it down to my ARB setting being too soft, hence will stiffen it up and so how I go (probably spinning lots Chris

Not at all Mark - I'm a great believer in there being no such thing as a stupid question on here. Ive certainly asked a few :D My intention is now to leave the Diff in-situ, as based on it being a Quaife a rebuild is not applicable. So I'm saving myself the work and a few quid on not having to replace the prop shaft bolts. As a side note, Ive bee advised that the single wheel "spinning up" I experienced on a recent track day is deemed expected from a Quaife ATB Diff with a soft Anti Roll Bar setting - hence I'll be putting the ARB on a "higher" hole next time out. Chris

Thank you Ian, Im a newbie to this stuff - hence wasn't sure if this approach would work with a Quaife ATB Diff? Pic just cos it's a piece of art Chris

Right Gents, Im still struggling to remove the driver side driveshaft. It appears to be seized??? However the good news is the passenger side is free moving near the Diff - hence I'm happy that'll come out with ease when I move round to that side. But I want to get the driver side sorted first. In relation to the CV joint, I'm comfortable that is back in-situ. Plus on closer inspection the Ford housing has been stamped with QUAIFE ATB 362 - a good starting point :D Though it remains to be confirmed whether the Diff internals or the Diff itself was potentially changed in 2014, as I have a receipt showing a previous owner (Gerry Ralph) paid for removal and refit of Diff by Brooke Kensington in Bicester. Is Gerry perhaps a L7C member??

Thank you Gents As per the pic, I'm now concerned I may have "deranged" the Diff end joint. Chris

Hoping for assistance (again). Im struggling to remove the driver side (RHD) drive shaft. Any tips? Its totally free wheel end, but the spline seems to be stuck in the Diff. Is there a trick I'm missing here? With thanks Chris

#108 Peter, Is that from a sintered or carbon Diff ? Chris

#99 Hi Dan, The odometer says 18k (albeit due to the speed sensor not being reliable at times eg above certain speeds) - I suggest it's higher, say 20k. However, I have paperwork from previous ownership that refers to a labour charge for "Diff removal/refit" in 2014, but no details of whether this was a rebuild or potentially a Diff replacement. I've not got the car jacked up and have commenced with the dis-assembly. Looking forward to removing a drive shaft and using the guide below to identify the Diff. Credit to Angus Davidson for his fantastic website; "Building a Limited Slip Differential" https://www.mycaterham.com/66828/117416.html Chris

#96 Peter, Which Diff Type is this. Appears I need to take mine out to establish what it is. So far Ive learnt that as its a Model Year 2010 R300D it could/should be a Titan, but Quaife has also been suggested. Guess there is only one way to find out :D

Hi Mark, Im intrigued - what are you connecting to the OBD? Chris

Based on this pic from this afternoon - I'll also be removing my Diff this winter.....

@ #84 Thank you Dan I'll drop Martin an email - much appreciated. Having gained input from Peter Scott and spoken to Ian at PT Sports Car (where I bought mine from), I'm expecting Martin to confirm that it has a Ford Diff Housing with ZF internals. Though based on its age I foresee a winter Diff rebuild for peace of mind. Hence looking forward to following Marks Blog Chris

in regards to the wiring I chose to add bullet connectors to each wire, enabling me to disconnect these and subsequently easily remove the lights for track days and public road use (daytime only).

Thank you Neil, Hopefully they'll inspire and assist others with this modification. Talking of which there was an additional bit of modification to be done 4) Cut the indicator shroud to suit the new lower bracket arm position. As per pics below.

Hence, is there a reliable way to identify what Diff is fitted to the various model years out there? With thanks Chris

#124 #125 Thank you Gents. Im now getting around to re-visiting this idea - as a winter project. To confirm, I've checked the heater and that is AOK. Whilst fitting the NACA duct to an existing bonnet has its challenges, albeit I know it has been done by the likes of Boss Racing - my main challenge I foresee is designing the internal duct from the top of the footbox to the NACA Duct, for this I was planning on using Blue Foam (Styrofoam) to get the rough design, before then creating the CAD and 3D printing or fabricating the ducting. But Im open to other means of doing this, hence please feel free to put suggestions forward? With thanks Chris

For anyone fitting this to a metric S3 chassis, there are a couple of modifications needed to the standard imperial part. 1) I reduced the diameter to suit the clamping diameter - basically filed the powder coating off. 2) Cut the length down by 3cm (this can be avoided on passenger side, but is a spatial necessity on the drivers side (RHD). 3) As already mentioned in this thread - I drilled a hole in the tube for the wires to route through. Hope this assists. Chris

So, I've finally got around to fitting these (well one side atleast) to my metric S3 chassis Im really happy with the end result. Here's some pics of the install showing the original fitted for comparison.

Hi Mark, I look forward to following this thread on this and reading the blog - especially as I expect I'll need to give my Diff some TLC very soon in light of it getting a bit clunky during Monday's track day - albeit only at low speed and usually upon returning to the pits after some so called hot/fast laps. At this stage I remain to establish what Diff is fitted to my 2010 R300D Could any of you far wiser Caterham owners on here please help me with this Diff identification? With thanks Chris

Anyone heading to Krazy Horse in Bury St Edmunds on Thursday evening? Chris

Thank you David, Hopefully this thread can be of assistance for years to come to both Ford and Rover Caterham owners scratching their heads like I have been doing. Albeit, thanks to fellow members Im now set to achieve my objective - plus learnt a few modification 'tricks' along the way. Chris

Thank you Stu and SM25T. Ive got the replacement Fuel Pump ready, it is indeed a Ford item, 3M51-9H307 P1697156AT. Unfortunately I wasn't able to locate info on the L7C site for the fuel pump pipe removal, but a Google.com search eventually led me to the following video which gave me the answer; Fuel pump connectors - quick disconnects - 2004 Ford Ranger As per the image below - it was rather simple in the end, just had to apply pressure to the "tab" part of the connector (red arrow) and the pipe came away from the fuel pump - noting I had to twist the pipe circa 180 degrees to get access to the "tab". Stu, Thank you for your suggestion of the Diff Oil Access 'door' - I think I shall be making that mod :) Next step is to carry out the full removal and then refitment of the new (used) Fuel Pump. Chris