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L66TEY

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Everything posted by L66TEY

  1. L66TEY
    Thank you Gents. The Reverie link was what I was looking for.
  2. L66TEY
    This type of "Levante"
  3. L66TEY
    Anyone with knowledge of the Levante V6 RST Engine? Specifically the firing order? A fellow Caterham owner in Germany is struggling with getting information on this. With thanks Chris
  4. L66TEY
    The idea behind the curved slots are that the mobile can be angled towards the driver - both RHD and LHD, hence the symmetry - or simply parallel with the screen.
  5. L66TEY
    Hoping someone could assist with finding the source for the carbon nose cone "scoops" seen on "R4 HUN" at the Caterham Crawley Open Day last April? With thanks Chris
  6. L66TEY
    Hi Andy, The "fettling" I did for them to fit a metric chassis was "simply"; 1) Drilled a hole in each bracket for the wires to route through the tube. 2) Reducing the diameter of the tube by sanding off the powder coating, and then sprayed the ends to seal the bare metal exposed from sanding. 3) Cut a hole/slot in the plastic indicator mount as clearance for the tube brackets each side. ​​​​​​​Reference Pics:
  7. L66TEY
    Thank you Gents. Very much appreciate the advice and support. Chris
  8. L66TEY
    I've got the timing pin and bar for setting the camshafts. But haven't been able to locate a Duratec Flywheel lock that mounts where the starter motor does. Please would you share a link? With thanks Chris
  9. L66TEY
    Unfortunately not, the Starter Motor mounting orientation differs by 90 degrees between the Sigma and Duratec. For reference, Starter Motor pics below; DURATEC: SIGMA:
  10. L66TEY
    Appreciate your help on this Tom. Yes, that's basically what I've already got. And I'll gladly be told I'm wrong and that this type of kit can be used on a Caterham with the Bellhousing fitted, but to me it appears it can't? Perhaps needless to say, but Im trying to avoid having to take the engine out.
  11. L66TEY
    Yes, need to undo the crank nose bolt to get to the timing chain tensioner (suspected failure). But Im trying to do the work with the engine in the car, therefore little room for the "bar and pegs" route - hence was hoping to bolt on a Flywheel Lock where the starter motor mounts. But if that's not readily available, I guess it'll be simpler to make a "bar and pegs" setup than a dedicated flywheel lock.
  12. L66TEY
    Hi Tom, Im in Gamlingay, Cambs - SG19 3DG. But before you go looking in the shed, I bought a Ford Flywheel lock tool - however from what I've figured out they are designed to fit to the Ford Bellhousing and not a Caterham Bellhousing. Nonetheless, I very much hope you have what I'm looking for. If not, I think I'll be looking to get something made. With thanks Chris
  13. L66TEY
    Hoping someone will point me in the direction of a flywheel lock that bolts onto the starter motor mounting points on a Duratec? With thanks Chris
  14. L66TEY
    I'll gladly take these. Will send you a DM Chris
  15. L66TEY
    As pictures speak a thousand words, here are some more pics;
  16. L66TEY
    Having fitted these, I highly recommend them. Admittedly, I didn't realise they were intended for fitment to Imperial chassis - however with a bit of fettling I fitted them to my 2010 Metric Chassis. Here's some pics of the fettling, which included drilling a hole for the wires to route through the tube.
  17. L66TEY
    The Vulcan alloys really do like nice. I just wish they did them in 13in......... Chris
  18. L66TEY
    Thank you Tim - great point and if the bank manager agreed I'd be getting my hands on a "LiteBlox" battery, but alas no. Hence, trying to keep replacement elements to a minimum. Having looked closer at images of central battery locations, I've realised the heater cable goes between the battery and the heater unit. So I'm hoping I "simply" need to reduce the length of two hoses to bring the existing heater cable closer to the heater unit and subsequently make space for the battery. Here's hoping. Chris
  19. L66TEY
    The outside will look like this.
  20. L66TEY
    Good point, byt TBH Jonathan having bought the car used I've never seen the factory jack nor handle. In theory it should be simple and end up similar to this Caterham 420 (apart from the airbox and plenum). Based on this image I'll need a new battery cage/strap running across its width.
  21. L66TEY
    I plan on moving my battery from the side to central location on my 2010 R300D, main reason is to subsequently also relocate the K&N Filter (using a DO88 90 degree hose, B90G73) to nearer the Bonnet side and add a duct to aid cold air being fed to the filter. But in order to do this I need to move the Battery to the Central position, but presently the heater hoses are routed across this space. Hence, has anyone else done this modification already? Any specific advise and support with the repositioning of the heater hoses and battery much appreciated. As pictures speak a thousand words, here's my starting point; With thanks Chris
  22. L66TEY
    For Sale: Quaife ATB Diff (Used Good Condition) Suitable for Ford Diff Housing £350 ono Collection from Cambs/Beds or R&R Transmissions Reason for sale, replaced Diff with TracSport Diff. Chris
  23. L66TEY
    Watts Linkage Arms and Bellcrank (in the correct orientation) now fitted. As part of putting the rear suspension back together I'm replacing all nuts and bolts, but decided (for now) to re-use the original Bellcrank bolt, as the plain section on the new ones from CC were oddly shorter than the original ones. I'll query this with CC Parts tomorrow. ​​ Chris
  24. L66TEY
    Thank you Gents. JK please do PM me as I've not got the Assembly Guide. Many thanks Chris
  25. L66TEY
    Yet again Im seeking support from fellow Club members...... Please could someone clarify the correct orientation of the Watts linkage "bellcrank", ie should the longer "ears" be upwards or downwards? I ask as there photos on the web with the orientation being both ways round and differences in which part connects to rear shorter linkage bar....... With thanks Chris
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