cr500dom
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Everything posted by cr500dom
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Yes Neil (Barkalarr) is who to speak to, he can do you a much better solution than the GT Tarp type covers for similar money but much greater security, and he will have a trailer and cover in stock I bet
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I'd speak to Luke Stevens at Team Leo's near Newmarket, they can do you a proper Bag seat, fully trimmed and Names embroidered in the cover if you want ? They are a beautifully finished seat that would look at home in any car. He is having an open day on the 19th of November for the opening of the new rolling road facility, worth popping down and seeing some of the cars with the seats fitted.
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I`ve gone Makita, as all my Tools are MAkita so I could just get a body only Gun. I should have spent a little extra and gone for the Brushless version. This is fine for Caterham wheel nuts and I generally crack off teh BMW ones first with a breaker bar anyway. A mate has a Ryobi 18V 1/2" drive one and that has got shed loads of torque for not a lot of money, as in enough tightening torque to shear a 12mm grade 8.8 bolt on a test we did
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Widetrack Kit Std Brakes 9/16 Anti Roll Bar Metric SOLD
cr500dom replied to mikecocker's topic in For Sale
PM Sent Mike, I`ll take this please ;) -
I'll take the rear arch protectors, let me know how you want paying etc cheers Dom
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Very interested, do you have any Pictures ?
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Pace do 2 systems for the sigma, one is a full 3 stage pump (2 scavenge, 1 pressure stage) which requires the original oil pump gutting. The 2nd type (Which is an easier fit) is just an external 2 stage scavenge pump and it uses the original internal oil pump as the pressure stage. They have both inlet and exhaust side pump mounting options available too AT Power also have a Billet aluminium sigma drysump system available, and I suspect this is what Premier Power use as we used to supply them with our Throttle Bodies when I was there. Hope that helps Dom
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Most of the plumbed in systems are labelled as "Fire suppression systems" rather than "Fire extinguisher systems" They are designed to suppress the fire for long enough, so that you can get out. Racing systems are smaller than Rallying systems as its assumed you wont be very far away on circuit from a Mannned marshalls post with Big fire extinguishers to hand. In a Rally car you could be a long way so its up to you to put the fire out. Rallying requires i think a 4kg plumbed in, with another 2.5kg hand held. I have a 2.5kg Plumbed in AFF system to go in the boot on the caterham, and I have a Halon 2kg portable to put the fire out, illegal to use now, but will definately extinguish a vehicle fire.
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NAKED carbon .Removing paint from wings and nose cone
cr500dom replied to jonathantennantbtinternet's topic in TechTalk
Heat gun and Scraper was the way we used to strip the F1 cars back to bare carbon. Be aware though you may never get all the Primer out of the spots between the weave if it was pre-preg ? -
Thats why a lot of the Engine builders fit Manual tensioners, at 7000rpm it can make quite a difference to your cam timing with the tensioner moving about. Which has a corresponding big impact on Power at High revs too. Its on my "Jobs to do list" on my Blacktop, along with swinging the exhaust cam timing too
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Just bouncing ? Anyone have anything suitable ? Cheers Dom
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I went for this one: http://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage-equipment/trolley-jacks/tja125-aluminium-trolley-jack And a pair of their stands, and the rubber tops for the stands too, to protect the chassis. Its narrow enough and low enough to go under the front with thh nose fitted, jack on heh cruciform and get 2 stands either side while still being able to get the jack out (Roller at the front end rather than wheels on the side) Its showing out of stock sadly but will probably be back in soon These are the rubber stand tops: http://www.sgs-engineering.com/rpjsr-rubber-axle-stands-pad Tigerseal / sikaflex them on to the stands and protect your car too
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Whereabouts are you ? how far from Norwich ?
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Just keeping options open at the moment and seeing whats out there ? I have an SLR Cage at the moment but would like the ability to fit a screen, doors and Half hood, so Im looking for a Rear Rollbar. Cheers in advance Dom
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Well the ones I have ordered for my Metric Chassis are: 65512.W0108 (Currently out of stock) Before I fitted the rear Antirollbar kit, I measured the ball joints and went looking (as I want some more balls for quick setup changes) These were the best price I found amongst all my normal component suppliers for stainless versions.
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I`d be letting R&R take a look inside that, if it was last looked at 16 years ago...... Yes they are all noisy to some extent, but I would rather have it refreshed and reset, than be shelling out for a full rebuild of the diff with new Crownwheel and Pinion. LSD`s are a servicable item too, they have clutch plates that wear, they are not totally "Fit and forget"
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Looks like it was Paul and Pauline ;)
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I brought a Rode video mic and "deadcat" off Amazon, along with a 3 m extension cable. I power the Go-pro from a usb lead and run the external mic up under the dash, seems to work well. Deadcat doesnt help much with caterham wind noise if its in the airflow, i think you need a definite physical barrier and then the deadcat helps with the remainder. David Mulhollands recommendation and it all works very well
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Or you could get them Cheaper and in stainless steel here: http://www.wixroyd.com/en/catalog/design-elements/universal-joints-ball-and-socket-joints/ball-socket-joint--stainless-steel/65512
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I suspect its LHD Not much room for the Turbo on a RHD installation. But I would be interested to see how you have done it too
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What have you got underneath the seat ? Runners ? Alloy Box section rails ? Tillets are a tight fit though Easy check, at the front on the sides of teh seat, does it roll right round ? or is it trimmed back ? A series 3 fit Tillet should measure 400mm across at this point Trimmed, or 420mm with a full roll. There is a wider version of this which would be 420/440mm at the same point. I suspect this is what gets fitted to SV chassied cars HTH Dom
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Thats what I was saying yesterday. 180HP is just "Head off" work plus TB`s and a remap 200 needs High compression pistons and steel rods, and the right set of throttle bodies (AT Power Ideally)
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Thats what Im getting at, How much power do you want ? If you don't go chasing 200hp or 9000rpm then you can eliminate £1000 worth of pistons and rods, and the associated engine build costs. If you limit yourself to head work, cams and intake mods, this can be done with a "Track & Road" remap by Steve G. It can even be done on another head, so you could put it back to standard for resale, and swap the modded head and intake on to your new car. Stuarts (PP) Kits are very good, with a lot of work behind them and a warranty. But they don't suit all Budgets. There are many other people tuning Sigma engines, (Shawspeed, BPJ - Big Paul Jackson) who have not specifically targeted caterham owners.
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You need a backing washer. Rivet - popper base - vehicle skin - washer then Rivet it, making sure the nose of the rivet gun seats on the rivet head, and teh rivet head it pressed in tight to the popper base. Filler will pull out again. The washer wont. I turned down the nose of my rivetter to alow it to sit correctly in the base. works brilliantly now HTH Dom
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How much power do you want ? And where are you getting £6-7k for the sigma tuning options from ? Thats a lot of money, you could build a proper sigma for that. Throttle Bodies`s, Proper Head and cams, lightweight Steel flywheel will all make a massive difference. If you want 200hp, then you'll need High compression pistons and rods as well. But 180hp is easily do-able with a ported head, cams and Throttle bodies which even buying everything new should only be £2k plus a remap to suit. I have a set of Caterham 150 spec Throttle bodies "in stock" if you need some. HTH Dom
