Hampshire West AR

It's the oil check that is a pain on my R500. As you say you can add oil at the top of the engine. I am worried about cutting the tongue so will look for better fasteners that come apart easier. Was think of the ones that have a centre part that you screw out and then the outer pulls out easily like the wheel arch liner mounts. No idea what their proper name is? Like these http://Car Body Trim Clips - WENTS Car Retainer Clips Universal Auto Clips Plastic Nylon Rivet Trim Clamp Car Door Bumper Fender Liner Sealing Strip Fixed Clips Fasteners Tools 100Pcs https://amzn.eu/d/cbCfsMO Nick

Link to Ctek cable here If you can squeeze it through the big grommet in the transmission tunnel that would be the best thing really. You would need to drill a big hole for that inline fuse to push through. Other than that you could cut the cable and solder and heat shrink it if you know what you are doing. Nick

You can get rims from Mike Barnby or Image?

Arch Motor & Manufacturing Company Ltd, Redwongs Way, Huntingdon, 160 miles from you.

James There is a photo in the link above showing a green 420 with Ocus wheels with a non FIA bar fitted? Nick

As it was a novice day does that mean you do not need a trackday roll bar?

I'll help

These are them.

Agreed. Barnbys are the really light, configurable on width and always hold their value well.

Lightest out there? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115448521611?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gw7YqFCnSra&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=56_uiAU0Sei&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

My R500D primaries are I believe bigger diameter than an R400D. 52mm external, 48mm internal. the pipe into the silencer is 64mm external/60mm internal or though on Raceco website it says 63mm(2.5"). Nick

That sounds fantastic, Will be heading to Nitron and Steve over the winter, thanks. Nick

Darren, I assume when you mean flatshift you are still going to use the gear lever but just go up the gearbox without lifting off the throttle? If you go down the paddle shift route there are open and closed loop systems and the best ones( so I am told) work using compressed air. The advantage of the closed loop system is it has feedback and helps to preserve the gearbox. The other bit that can be sorted is the downshifts can also be clutchless with the system blipping the throttle to allow the gear below to be selected. I know someone who has a system fitted to their R500 and apparently it works most of the time but can occasionally fail. This sounds to me like it may need regular servicing/set up to keep it top line? Nick

Mark Very nice car, best of luck with the sale . If the new owner does not want to buy the Penske shocks I would be interested. Nick

I had last R500 decat pipe for my Raceco, sorry. You could ask Mike Riley if he will make you one but I imagine it would be expensive as a one off. I am after another one as I had to cut the one to fit the Raceco and I would like to save the silencer for track days. At least they are getting some made by Cheeseman. Nick

Club Secretary(Shortshift) was after one. N

It's interesting that the Ariel Atom can be ordered with different shocks from different manufacturers. There is one for sale on Pistonheads that has two way adjustable Bilsteins yet Caterham have only just announced one way adjustable Bilsteins. It's almost as if Caterham have been saying they know best and you don't need adjustability? Nick

James I used to experience a kind of oscillation when travelling down certain roads with a bumpy surface like the M20 in Kent. The nose would bounce with the Bilsteins. Fitted the Nitrons and problem solved. They just felt better as a damper. Now I know this is a complex subject and also it is hard to find a damper that will be good on road and track but I was relatively happy with my old Nitrons for road and track use. Seen many car reviews that slate the ride being too harsh or too soft and these cars have millions of pounds spent on development and they still do not please everyone. The original poster can ask a question and get hundreds of opinions but ultimately it's his car and he can decide what he wants to spend his money on. I am sure that the Bilsteins like any damper is built to a price, spending a bit more I would assume would get better quality, not always but hopefully and that quality adds up to good consistency in performance. Whether most owners can distinguish that difference is always debatable. Most of us, me included have cars with far more power and capability than we can master but does it really matter? N

I had 2500 mile Bilsteins on my last 7 which were not good, swopped to a secondhand set of Nitron supplied NTR1s and they were night and day better. Cost me £700. Had them on the car for about 12 years, never got them refurbished and did about 23,000 miles and they still seemed fine. My new car has factory supplied Bilsteins that seem ok so will stick with them for the time being but would not hesitate to upgrade to some Nitrons in the future. Nick

Clive and Jane + Chris and Joan.

Sold to Peter. Nick

I have two spare tickets @ £45 each to Goodwood FOS for the Friday. Can post at your cost. Nick

Buy a Raceco.

I had a similar problem with my old car fitted with a Blackbird engine and the problem turned out to be a loose earth wire for the engine loom. Worth checking all connections? Nick

Anyone got the Caterham(£70) or JWM(£25) dip stick that could measure the distance to the hot and cold marks for me please. Being a cheapskate I made myself a dip stick out of a kebab skewer and want to mark it up. Caterham one below My one Nick