Dorset7
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Everything posted by Dorset7
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Factory built or kit built doesn't really matter much, with the age of car you're looking at within your price point if there had been issues with the build they'd probably have come to light already and rectified. Don't discount an ex Academy car, I've had three now and they've all been faultless. Just because a car isn't an ex race car doesn't mean it hasn't been abused on track days or on the road. Buy on condition then consider it's age and mileage. The ex Academy route is cheaper initially and you have the opportunity to make the car as you want it to be over time - view it as a blank canvas.
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I'd consider changing for a WOSP item or similar. Really not too expensive and they do a couple of high torque variants - I fitted one on a 2004 K-Series a couple of years back and it was fantastic, well worth the effort and money. I've got a K-Series starter in the garage gathering dust - I could remove the solenoid and send it to you if you like?
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Just had a quick look - that's a very nice colour!
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Disappointing to hear.
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De-ionised water does have a shelf life - DI water is, by its very nature and name, very low in ions and hungry for them. In time it will leach ions from the container and atmosphere, when exposed to it, and so becomes less and less de-ionized as time goes on. In reagent grade chemistry it may interfere with the result of a subtle and sensitive experiment but probably not be detrimental in garage use, although ten years is a while!
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According to CC the resistor in the loom is a different issue and has different purpose to that in the Sure Shift box itself - I don't profess to know all about it so I'm just going on what I was advised to do.
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http://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/aces-sure-shift-2-wiring This diagram is from Caterham and details the resistor loom.
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As Charles says - the shielded wire feeds off the tacho input wire. You'll need to connect the live and ground as well, obviously. When I did mine on my old K-Series I also fitted the Caterham supplied resistor loom, as I understand it this allows for constant voltage to the tacho despite the extra feed take off (happy to be corrected though).
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Seen.
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Double post.
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Ask Ian Payne of PT Sports Cars, they had it in stock for a while after a dealer failed to move it on. I think CC had if off PT (but I don't profess to know the ins and outs of the deal). I'm not sure if Ian is on here much these days but he is on the C&L7OG Facebook page, might be worth asking him direct?
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Lowered floors and changing your seats to Tilletts might be the answer. The S type seat tends to sit you higher in the car and so your knees will naturally be closer to the steering wheel. I'm 189cm, with Tilletts and lowered floors I've got plenty of room. I've got a Momo removable wheel but don't actually have to take it off to get in and out. Do you have a dealer close by so you could try a car with that configuration?
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A pair of standard 13" wheel wing stays for sale. These are used and could do with a powder coat really but are straight and perfectly serviceable. I changed them in the summer for lower race stays and these have been in the garage since. £40 + Postage?
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As per the title, I'm after a pair of captive nut scuttle retaining channels for quick change from full screen to aero should anyone have a set doing nothing. Cheers Christian.
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I've never been brave enough to sprint, I think you must have me confused with somebody else I'm afraid. The colours I posted (sorry the message was so short, dinner was on the table and I was being told off!) are from avlist of official colours given to mevby Tony at the factory. I hope it helps and you get a good match.
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Aztec Orange /McLaren Orange.
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You'll enjoy the Cayman - I had one for a number of years and still miss it!
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I've got a pair in my tool box right next to the channels you're after!
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I've got a brand new set in my tool box, drop me a BM and we'll get you sorted.
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Keeping with the thread.....do give removing the old pins a go, they come out easily (once the white section inside the plug has been removed first) each pin has a tiny tab you need to move towards the pin you're removing (you'll see what I mean) the tricky bit is not damaging the little bellows type water seals on each pin as you push them through the tubing. A spot of sealant will do the trick if you do. I did this job last year and it really doesn't take much time at all.
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I've used the Mocal 0-100PSI gauge on two cars. It matches the existing Caterham gauges pretty well and both of mine were totally reliable.
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I've installed both systems on two different cars. I think the main factor is cost - the braided hose is considerably more expensive. You can save a few quid by wrapping the nylon hose with washer hose, simply split down one side and wrap around the oil line. Actually fitting the braided hose is no more difficult if you work from the dash down into the engine bay via the grommet above the gearbox into the cabin. Be sure to feed on the induction side of the engine bay to avoid excessive heat and don't cable tie anything in place until you've checked your routing and you're completely happy. If you need any more help please do drop me a line.
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My current one is dented, hence the search for an undamaged replacement. Thanks for getting in touch but if yours is damaged it won't be for me. Thank you though.
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Stripped, any corrosion repaired, jigged and re-powder coated.
