Sallen43

Wanted half hood for an FIA S3 metric roll cage.

I have four black minilites style wheels. All are 6inch X 13 inch. I don't have wheel centres. Currently the tyres on them are AO21's but they are not road legal, the tread is touching the limit marks, so only good for track days or similar. Would take £180 for them if you are interested? If not I wish you well in your search and your sprinting. Best regards,, Sam (based near junction 12 of M40 Leamington Spa)

Hi Dave, missed you. I saw the same car heading up from CC to Dovers Hill. had a nice cream tea then went home? catch you soon.

Disappointing to drive for 2.5hrs each way for.

I was looking for my dream car but was seriously let down. Considering it was supposed to be fresh paint it had a spider crack on top of both rear arches, paint chip on the passenger sill. I found three rivets and an M5 bolt in the boot, the boot poppers were loose, the drivers side panel on the inside rattled like a ten year old car, there was also no paint on the top of that panel it was also wavier than a north shore swell. On start up the nose cone rattled like it wasn't done up (was rattling on the radiator). On test the brake pedal needed pressing down instead of forwards to activate and the steering wheel wasn't put on straight. When we got back the clocks had an electrical tiz and stopped at 5000rpm and 50mph! The front right tyre was half flat. Oh I found an M6 bolt in the engine bay and the heater had two bolts missing from top mountings. The front wishbones had seen a few gravel traps. I was assured that all would be fixed if I put down a £2k deposit. I can only imaging the respray was required to chips and track rash. The paint job was nice though, no sign of previous colour at all. Graham the salesman was a nice chap but for a main dealer select car it was presented in an unsaleable condition for a 31k car! The search continues.

I was looking for my dream car but was seriously let down. Considering it was supposed to be fresh paint it had a spider crack on top of both rear arches, paint chip on the passenger sill. I found three rivets and an M5 bolt in the boot, the boot poppers were loose, the drivers side panel on the inside rattled like a ten year old car, there was also no paint on the top of that panel it was also wavier than a north shore swell. On start up the nose cone rattled like it wasn't done up (was rattling on the radiator). On test the brake pedal needed pressing down instead of forwards to activate and the steering wheel wasn't put on straight. When we got back the clocks had an electrical tiz and stopped at 5000rpm and 50mph! The front right tyre was half flat. Oh I found an M6 bolt in the engine bay and the heater had two bolts missing from top mountings. The front wishbones had seen a few gravel traps. I was assured that all would be fixed if I put down a £2k deposit. I can only imaging the respray was required to chips and track rash. The paint job was nice though, no sign of previous colour at all. Graham the salesman was a nice chap but for a main dealer select car it was presented in an unsaleable condition for a 31k car! The search continues.

Been looking at R40 OSM at caterham South.its been for sale for a while. It used to be cadbury's purple but now grey. Any one know the history? Owners? Opinions? Going to test drive tomorrow. Can't understand why it's been for sale for so long? any tips?

Been looking at R40 OSM at caterham South.its been for sale for a while. It used to be cadbury's purple but now grey. Any one know the history? Owners? Opinions? Going to test drive tomorrow. Can't understand why it's been for sale for so long? any tips?

Orange K Series leaving the shires shopping centre. Nice colour scheme

Orange K Series leaving the shires shopping centre. Nice colour scheme

I managed to plumb in a voltmeter (on amps setting) to the brake light fuse location and every time I press the brake pedal I get 10amps (fuse is a 15) when I release the brake pedal amp reading is around -6. When I engage revers (same circuit apparently) I also get 10 amps, but when I come out of reverse I get -6 sometimes and -16 and -17amps. Could this explain it? If so any idea which wire to check next? Sorry to bother you, but you gave some really good advice last time. Perhaps the engine start was a complete misnomer as I'd checked reverse before starting the engine last time. I get consistent readings with engine running and not running and also during cranking. I'm suspecting something related to coming out of reverse? But have no idea what?

Hi, thanks for your previous comments I'll try to check the things you mentioned. Foot wasn't on brake when I started it. and not related to a chmsl. I never managed to get a loom from caterham, so never fitted one.

Brake light fuse blows when I start my engine? Had been chasing this problem for a while (blown fuse). Have read all the posts I can find. Have checked the brake switch, bulb connections, reverse light switch terminals on transmission, clutch pin to switch clearance). Couldn't work out why every time I fix it with a new fuse, test in garage all works well (only on ignition) when ever I go for a drive they've stopped working. Now I have realised that the fuse blows as soon as I satrt the engine???? Now I'm baffled. Not heard of this before. Any advice gratefully received before I take it to an auto electrician. What would make it blow as I satrt the engine?

Hi, How much do you want for the aero screen? Does it bolt through the regular stanchion fixings? please let me know. Any pics also appreciated. sam

I am considering the same, but using a later freelander thermostat housing. It looks exactly the same as the QED system, but not as shiny. i'm interested to hear how you get on as the freelander thermostat and housing is £25 cheers, sam