Dorset7

I seem to be having an issue with high tick over on my 125 Sigma when it's hot. I've adjusted the idle speed on the idle screw on the the standard single TB to the point where the car is struggling to tick over cold but runs about right (900-1000rpm) when hot. It would seem that as the car gets hot the tick over rises and pulses (hunts) around the 1200-1300rpm mark. I've reset the ECU using the FIA key method and I've checked all the linkages are free and lubricated. There doesn't appear to be any restriction on the return of the cable and I'm at a bit of a loss. I've checked that everything is tight and there doesn't appear to be an air leak anywhere. The car is behaving very well under power and this is more of an irritation than a major drama but I would like to try and pin it down and get it nipped. I'm stumped, any ideas?

Was it James Mortimers blue SL20 by chance?

I've got a set with straps hanging in the garage if you're interested. £20?

I've been using ali wheel nuts on the 7 for an age and never had an issue with them coming loose. I've done plenty of miles in one hit (to include motorway and cross country blatting) without trouble.

A box spanner is the way to skin that cat.

Nigel, It's very well produced and looks like it'll be simple to follow - I hope it reduces the "I've built it wrongly but it's CC fault" complaints we've seen recently on other forums. Might also reduce the delays new builders face on the post build check where so much has to be rectified before IVA (again as we've seen so graphically lately).

Having had a bit of an issue with fuel starvation at the weekend I had to remove my rear boot panel to access the fuel pump. Having got it off I noticed that both the "live" and "earth" wires to the pump had been rubbing on the bottom of the boot panel exposing the bare wires - potential for a flaming disaster there! If you've got a Sigma it might be worth taking a few moments to check.

I just had this on my MOT this week. Failed due to a leak on the end cap - taped it up and retested and it went through just fine. The location of the Lambda sensor doesn't help, they struggle to get really hot enough on the cat pipe.

They do sound a bit "tappety" on start up, made worse if you use 5W50 Motorsport oil I've noticed. The injector rail noise is pretty evident too, particularly on tick over.

There are six wires coming from the immobiliser, two are thin and operate the LED and the induction loop. The other four work in pairs - two for the starter motor circuit and two for the ignition circuit. They are colour coded but only inside the immobiliser box, white and blue pairs as I recall (colour coding on the wires is removed on installation). If you can determine the correct pairs (white and blue) you can bridge them with a scotch lock and this will remove the immobiliser relays from the equation. If the car starts and runs correctly there's your issue. The alternative is to get your ECU checked to rule it out then, by a process of elimination you're left with either the immobiliser or a wiring fault. I had my immobiliser replaced (insurance requirement) but I know of plenty of cars that have had them removed completely. As for cost I stumped up £130 for a new unit and complete installation worth a punt when you consider a new ECU from CC is £630!!

I've just been down this road....... My car was cutting out and when I checked I had a poor spark on cylinder 4. I replaced the coil pack, plugs, leads, crank sensor, cam sensor and air temp inlet sensor - none had any effect on the issue. I had my ECU checked and it was fine (I'm informed from a VERY reliable source that they very rarely fail). The culprit - a failing ignition circuit relay in the immobiliser. Now the immobiliser has been replaced it runs just fine. Having subsequently spoken to a Caterham specialist (and racing team owner) he tells me they fail on a regular basis and they often remove or bypass the immobiliser completely.

If anyone has missed out I've got a set for sale - £50 including postage.

DRE Shift Lights for sale - fitted to the car for a very short period. Removed and not refitted due to sourcing a set of Sure Shift 2 lights. £50 including postage.

It's yours!! I'll await your PM.

http://www.graduates.org.uk/forsale.asp - here.

http://www.graduates.org.uk/forsale.asp - one here for sale.

Does anyone have a pair of Caterham number boards they're no longer needing, I'm after a couple for the current project. Thanks Chris.

REDUCED - £75

***SOLD TO MARK***I have an exhaust shield in black from my 2010 Sigma car I no longer need. £25 + postage or collection from Dorset.

As per the title - do any of the racing or sprinting chaps have a couple of these they don't require? I'm after two for the current project. Thanks in advance.

These are like hens teeth, I was trying to track one down for ages but ended up getting mine re-sleeved (it had a nasty dent in it) by PT Sports Cars.

Hood for S3 Metric chassis car with side intrusion bar cut out. Very good condition. £75 + postage or collection from Dorset.

Send the new owner a photo of the retention document. He can transfer the registration immediately online after filling out his details and inputting the document reference number. https://www.gov.uk/personalised-vehicle-registration-numbers/transferring-a-registration-number

I now only need a bonnet, everything has been sourced this afternoon.