Jump to content
Click here to contact our helpful office staff ×

Caterham rear LEDs installation


Paul Oggelsby

Recommended Posts

  • Leadership Team

I added a couple of 6mm spade connectors (o/e type) and fed it through to the boot. I've been trying to think of something it might be useful for but as yet undecided. One thought would be to add a switched boot light, the way it's wired via the headlight switch would eliminate any issues of leaving it on in error.

For info, on my 1999 car the RH rear light has a 7.5A fuse whereas the LH rear light has a 5A fuse, I concluded the higher rating is there to include the numberplate light wired from the RH light.

Stu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

#3 Amazon IIRC. Adhesive Cable Tie Bases. 
 

One tip, the connector for the new plate/reverse light is too big to fit up between the rear panel and the tank. You need to remove the connector, feed the cable up and refit connector. Easy enough with the right de-pinning tool or a very thin probe to release the pins. 

The rest of it is very straightforward. 
 

Have you fitted the lights yet? Mine had some washers that weren't mentioned in the fitting video but they need to go on the retaining nuts. 

There are no grommets to fill the new wing holes so road dirt can get through and to the back of the light. I fitted the old ones from the inner wings (no longer needed with the new harness) temporarily by making a slit and fitting over the new cable coming from the light. I plan to put new ones in over winter, by removing the connector so I don't need to slit the grommet. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The worst thing for me on that score was that the 3 holes in the new bracket don't line up with the three holes of the old bracket. 

As I alluded to earlier, if you follow the CC directions you'll end up with a riddled rear chassis bar.

I put one screw through the centre hole and decent 3M DST where the outer holes go. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just asked caterham if they do an LED kit if you have the spare carrier. Given it is an option on the new car you would think so......

Given all the messing about people have to do and taking a drill to a new car, I'm losing interest in the idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

#11 other than the wings, which isn't too bad, it's possible to fit these without any more drilling. Certainly putting several extra holes in the chassis was a no go for me. 

As for the spare carrier, IMO it just needs a different bracket to mount the new plate light and a simple extension to the cable for that. 

Not excusing CC, you're right in what you say, but in the scheme of things it's an easy workaround. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like others the LED kit arrived less the number plate light bracket AND also missing the lock rings for the loom plug that fits through the inner wing.

Caterham sent the number plate bracket, had to drill and pop rivet to chassis, still awaiting lock rings, thats a month now!! So, Tuesday will be phoning them about that, also, LED kit installed, loom laid across tank, all the lights work, BUT no indicators or hazards????????  - Flasher relay ??? Any suggestions/advice. Tried the wiring/working the switches - no luck.      

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"BUT no indicators or hazards????????  - Flasher relay ??? Any suggestions/advice. Tried the wiring/working the switches - no luck."

As above.

It's common for older flasher units not to work or to flash slowly when incandescant lamps are replaced with LEDs. It happens because the load on the unit is lower.

Here's JAL's replacement unit, and they're available from many other sources.

Jonathan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The current draw of an LED bulb is about 20% that of an incandescent bulb with a similar light output, so a conventional relay using a bimetallic strip with a heating wire coiled around it to open and close the contacts in the relay, will flash about 25 times slower for one fifth the current (heating effect / energy produced is proportional to the square of the current). A solid state relay or one with a heating wire resistance about 5 times higher, will sort the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...