The good and the bad from my weekend in the garage with the car- a crochet hook and seat bolts

[andy_harries]

Posting this as information that might help someone, and then as a bit of a rant. First the good:

Was replacing the side indicator light (the one mounted on the front wing) - not sure if this is the case on all cars, but on mine (2016 ex academy car) the cable is routed through the hollow wing stay arm and pops out a hole near where the steering arm connects to the wheel. The hole it comes out from is quite small, but it turns out that a 3mm crochet hook is the perfect size to hook the wire and pull it out of the hole.  Took 10 seconds to sort (after 10 mins or trying other things).

Now, the bad.  Bloody seat bolts.  Whoever had the car before me replaced the bolts that go through the seat runners and bolt it to the floor with ones where the head is much smaller than the width of the runner. So, when I undo the nut from underneath the car , as soon as its loose then the bolt just spins as I try and loosen the nut.  Cue hours of reaching under the seat to try and grap the bolt head to stop it spinning as I loosen the nut.

Given I don't fancy paying for new seat runners with captured nuts, I'm going to replace the bolts with ones that have larger heads (probably T headed bolts) so that they catch on the sides of the runners when I tighten the nuts underneath.

At least installing the replacement radiator was easy enough.

[ECR]

Tack welding the bolts into the seat runners makes removing and refitting seats almost a pleasure...Even with larger headed bolts there is still the possibility of them moving whilst spinning the nuts on.I don't have experience of fitting runners with nuts welded in but it strikes me that trying to line the holes up from under the car maybe a bit frustrating at times?

[Golf Juliet Tango]

I have experienced the issue with the bolts holding the seat runners to the floor and it has come up here before. You do just have to ask why it is such an arrangement.  The bolts always do spin.

To remove I think there is no alternative to have someone else to hold the bolt head, With the standard bolt heads a socket won't fit between rails & hex head, which may be why the previous owner fitted bolts with non-standard heads.

In replacing: how about a cap head and the allen key will stay in place and you can make it jamb against something.  I did this.

[Wrightpayne]

I have M8 cap head allen bolts on the seat runners - with a normal length ball end allen key I can reach all of them to hold while I tighten / loosen the nut on the underneath.

You have to be careful the head of any bolt isnt too big so it interferes with the runners and jams them.

I do find if I'm strugging with something, I go make a cup of tea and when I return the task is usually easier! (Not always though!!)

[Jonathan Kay]

Andy: Private Message sent.

[andy_harries]

Cap head bolt and a long allen key is a cunning plan, thanks chaps.

 

[SM25T]

Socket head screw. Long allen key. Sorted.

[7 wonders of the world]

MIG welding plain nuts as ECR mentioned and fasteners from underneath is a much better option, as there's no arsing around getting the seats to slide when he runners are are jammed with grit.

[Golf Juliet Tango]

provided you have the kit and ability...

[7 wonders of the world]

most local enginering companies will squirt a little MIG on some nuts for you in exchange for a suitable beer token   

[SM25T]

Would always prefer bolts pointing downwards. If you lose a nut, the seat stays in place, and gives you a warning. With nuts welded to seat runners and bolt upwards from underneath, if the bolt comes out ..... !

[PeterM]

#11.....hear, hear

[7 wonders of the world]

Dab of blue loctite on them and I've never had one even loosen in either car, and if one comes out you still have 3 others.

There are far more critical fasteners on a Caterham which are know to loosen up in operation

[andy_harries]

Quick update for anyone who finds this when searching the archive.  Trying a few options, I went for an M8 T slot head bolt (Google it for pictures).  Essentially it looks like a normal bolt, with an elongated head on it, so that it fits in the runner but catches the sides when you turn it to undo or do up the nut.  The bolt head itself is 22.5mm long, 12.6mm wide and 3mm thick.  I could only find them in 100mm length, so just chopped it down to 20mm or so to match the old ones.  

Fitting them on the front two holes was easy, but I had to trim one side of the head to ease them into position on the back two holes.  Your fingers may be smaller and more dextrous than mine so that may not be necessary! 

[ScottR400D]

These might work well? 
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361580673718

[andy_harries]

Yes, they look like that, although the head is a little thinner