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Bulkhead


Brightonuk

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I am not sure where I saw this but I understand some people have replaced the scuttle bulkhead rivets with Rivnuts for easy access to the dash wiring.

Does anyone have a photo how this looks as I would like to have access to the dash wiring without the hassle of removing the scuttle each time.

I plan replace the bulkhead with a carbon panel but don't want to start drilling out rivets with no end plan.

Once removed is it re-installed behind the scuttle lip or over (outside) the lip 

EngineOut.jpg.65dcf4bbae9d6f6141ac20ce2ae67437.jpg

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

The car is a Superlite so no windscreen and no rivnuts on the side of the scuttle 

 

I have the right tool it is just after the cycle wing attempt and rear loking poppers I am not very good at the tension setting

Maybe if I had gone with a manual installation tool  but I opted for this one as the video looked like a no brainer 

https://www.eastwood.com/astro-pneumatic-rivet-nut-drill-adapter-kit.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-r71BRDuARIsAB7i_QPgifx2WtBGX5EnlsxZZrQztXNdvMQX-pQsD5LDZ5nav4C8FwvKbjwaAn7-EALw_wcB

I have ordered these for sizing and testing I figure for 10 bucks I can give it a try 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QSFL4KP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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#7 yes, on older cars the scuttle has 2 little 'ears' that sit below the level of the sides and attach to the chassis I used rivnuts in the chassis to secure thes 'ears'. I also used rivnuts in the dashboard loop to replace the self tappers that hold the poppers on for the tonneau. Hope that all makes sense....

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Mine has a removable section (about 18" wide, L-shaped when viewed from the side) that gives access through the bulkhead.  Gives some limited access to the wiring without removing the scuttle.  I thought they were all like this until I saw the pictures above.

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Gary,

I think you have the L-shaped aluminium because that is to replace the hole left when the fresh air heater was removed. If your car never had a heater then it would be flat as seen in above pictures. Cars with the old style flat heater just needed a flat panel to cove the hole left on the 'shelf'.

When I rebuilt mine in 2007/08 I then decided to make the scuttle removable as it gave greater access to dials/gauges/wiring from above rather than dangling upside down in the footwell. One of the best mods I've done. *thumb_up*

 

 

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That is different to my heater box - the top of mine is sealed against the lip of the scuttle - I had to remove the heater box to get at the rivets behind! Am going to have to bolt through the lip of the heater box through the scuttle into the firewall! Just a bit tight and the heater box is not that robust! 

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"#7 yes, on older cars the scuttle has 2 little 'ears' that sit below the level of the sides and attach to the chassis I used rivnuts in the chassis to secure thes 'ears'. I also used rivnuts in the dashboard loop to replace the self tappers that hold the poppers on for the tonneau. Hope that all makes sense"

 

Any chance of a photo?

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I decided the concept of using the snap rivets is not going to work to secure the scuttle but I have a question regarding using rivnuts.

Once installed in the supporting bulkhead there will be a gap as they do not sit flush it will only be a few mm?

Do people use anything (rubber strip etc.) to compensate for the gap or is it a non issue?

Am I correct in thinking using half the number of rivnut's will be OK?

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  • Leadership Team

I did it a little differently ... I didn't install the rivnuts directly into the bulkhead panel but into a strip of aluminium that was then bonded to the rear of the bulkhead leaving the existing 4mm holes in the bulkhead for the new screws to pass through. I actually used an old bulkhead and cut off 20mm all the way round the top and ends to make my strip, but I've done the same setup on another car using strips cut from plain sheet. It also has the advantage that the scuttle is positioned exactly as before and not slightly further forward.

I used 22 rivnuts and bolts as per the original holes but used a nylok nut on the rear of the two end bolts because there's not enough space for rivnuts without fouling the scuttle.

Stu.

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