Brightonuk Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 I am not sure where I saw this but I understand some people have replaced the scuttle bulkhead rivets with Rivnuts for easy access to the dash wiring.Does anyone have a photo how this looks as I would like to have access to the dash wiring without the hassle of removing the scuttle each time.I plan replace the bulkhead with a carbon panel but don't want to start drilling out rivets with no end plan.Once removed is it re-installed behind the scuttle lip or over (outside) the lip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted April 8, 2020 Leadership Team Share Posted April 8, 2020 When rivnuts are fitted in place of the rivets it's done to enable removal of the scuttle while leaving the bulkhead in place, not the other way round.Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Previous thread on the subject hereMy arrangement as referred to in above thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 Duh? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 As opposed to using rivnuts I was thinking these will work and not have to deal trying to set the rivnut (which never works for me)https://www.we-online.com/catalog/en/EXRV_SNAP_RIVET Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 As the scuttle is structural (holds the windscreen) I wouldn't use plastic to hold the two parts together.Rivnuts are easy to install with the right tool.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrettJ Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 #3 Did you also replace the rivets on the side of the scuttle with rivnuts or don't your have those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 The car is a Superlite so no windscreen and no rivnuts on the side of the scuttle I have the right tool it is just after the cycle wing attempt and rear loking poppers I am not very good at the tension settingMaybe if I had gone with a manual installation tool but I opted for this one as the video looked like a no brainer https://www.eastwood.com/astro-pneumatic-rivet-nut-drill-adapter-kit.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-r71BRDuARIsAB7i_QPgifx2WtBGX5EnlsxZZrQztXNdvMQX-pQsD5LDZ5nav4C8FwvKbjwaAn7-EALw_wcBI have ordered these for sizing and testing I figure for 10 bucks I can give it a try https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QSFL4KP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 #7 yes, on older cars the scuttle has 2 little 'ears' that sit below the level of the sides and attach to the chassis I used rivnuts in the chassis to secure thes 'ears'. I also used rivnuts in the dashboard loop to replace the self tappers that hold the poppers on for the tonneau. Hope that all makes sense.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garth Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 I presume none of you have heaters to deal with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrettJ Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 @Aeroscreens, I have the ears on mine and my car is new (September 2019) so I'm think of doing the same.@Garth, no I don't have a heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 Mine has a removable section (about 18" wide, L-shaped when viewed from the side) that gives access through the bulkhead. Gives some limited access to the wiring without removing the scuttle. I thought they were all like this until I saw the pictures above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 Gary,I think you have the L-shaped aluminium because that is to replace the hole left when the fresh air heater was removed. If your car never had a heater then it would be flat as seen in above pictures. Cars with the old style flat heater just needed a flat panel to cove the hole left on the 'shelf'.When I rebuilt mine in 2007/08 I then decided to make the scuttle removable as it gave greater access to dials/gauges/wiring from above rather than dangling upside down in the footwell. One of the best mods I've done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 Mine's an ex academy car, seems odd that it had a heater. Maybe they all did for all I know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 The heater isn't an issue. Mine has a full heater and I've converted to removable scuttle. The heater stays in place with the bulkhead panel when you remove the scuttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garth Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 That is different to my heater box - the top of mine is sealed against the lip of the scuttle - I had to remove the heater box to get at the rivets behind! Am going to have to bolt through the lip of the heater box through the scuttle into the firewall! Just a bit tight and the heater box is not that robust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 "#7 yes, on older cars the scuttle has 2 little 'ears' that sit below the level of the sides and attach to the chassis I used rivnuts in the chassis to secure thes 'ears'. I also used rivnuts in the dashboard loop to replace the self tappers that hold the poppers on for the tonneau. Hope that all makes sense" Any chance of a photo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrettJ Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 KK ThanksMined does not have this no hole in the body or scuttle guess I could add one but is is a necessity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrettJ Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 The holes in the body are for the SLR cage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Jones Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I have a 2004 sv imperial chassis (I believe, but could someone confirm when they metric please) which has a river into the chassis tubes at this location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Jones Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Obviously a rivet, not a river......... See if I can get the correction in before someone else comes along and makes a comment!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 I decided the concept of using the snap rivets is not going to work to secure the scuttle but I have a question regarding using rivnuts.Once installed in the supporting bulkhead there will be a gap as they do not sit flush it will only be a few mm?Do people use anything (rubber strip etc.) to compensate for the gap or is it a non issue?Am I correct in thinking using half the number of rivnut's will be OK? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 8, 2020 Leadership Team Share Posted May 8, 2020 I did it a little differently ... I didn't install the rivnuts directly into the bulkhead panel but into a strip of aluminium that was then bonded to the rear of the bulkhead leaving the existing 4mm holes in the bulkhead for the new screws to pass through. I actually used an old bulkhead and cut off 20mm all the way round the top and ends to make my strip, but I've done the same setup on another car using strips cut from plain sheet. It also has the advantage that the scuttle is positioned exactly as before and not slightly further forward.I used 22 rivnuts and bolts as per the original holes but used a nylok nut on the rear of the two end bolts because there's not enough space for rivnuts without fouling the scuttle.Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 I haven't done what Stu above did but it hasn't really made any difference to be honest and yes I only used 12 rivnuts and I know some people have only used 6..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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