Fitting a replacement steering universal joint

[Tin Man]

Hi all

I have just received a replacement steering universal joint for my 1999 K-Series 7. Unfortunately, I cannot fit the lower bolt which connects it to the rack, the upper bolt fits with no problem to the steering column. I have tried reversing the u/j, but still have the same problem. It would appear that I will need to file out the hole to get the bolt to fit. 

Has anyone else had this problem and if so how have they overcome this.

Many thanks

 

 

[Jonathan Kay]

Not sure what you're describing.

Is it getting the lower bolt through the joint piece? Is that both on and off the car?

Or is it fitting the joint piece to the splined rod from the rack? That's noted as a problem in the Assembly Guide. Suggested fix is opening the bottom of the joint piece with a flat screwdriver.

Jonathan

[Wrightpayne]

Is there a notch (for want of a better expression) on the rack spline that needs aligning so the bolt passes through it.

Ian

[Tin Man]

Hi Jonathan 

the joint fits on the rack without any problem. The bolt goes through the hole on one side but not the other. It passes through the recess, but I cannot get it through the other side. 

 

John

[Jonathan Kay]

Does the bolt go through either side individually, but they don't line up so that it can't go through both? Can you add a face-on and end-on photo? Might they line up if you opened or closed the split a bit?

Have you got the Assembly Guide with the diagram?

Jonathan

[Jim 123]

Can you get the fixing bolt fully home in both holes when the u/j is not fitted to the splines? If so this would indicate that the u/j is opening up very slightly when fitted over the splines and mis-aligning the bolt holes.  

 

[Tin Man]

No problem with the bolt when it is not fitted to the rack. It slides on very easily on to the rack splines therefore it would appear that the notch is not big enough for the bolt; this would push the bolt to one side. 

[Jim 123]

I don't suppose the original bolt would fit?

You didn't mention if you are trying to fit the u/j to the rack with the column already fitted to the u/j. I recall that I had problems with mine when I fitted the u/j to the column before the rack, but for some reason fitting to the rack first and getting the bolt in place with everything loose before sliding the column into position did the trick. You may also want to slacken the rack fixings off a tad as it may be a problem of different tolerances in the new u/j needing fresh, and very small, column-to-rack alignment changes.  This is what happens during original build, with a final torque up when it all fits. Jonathan's point about opening/ closing the joint a little is pretty normal.

 

[ScottR400D]

From what I remember they're all like that and the answer is a round file and hammer. 

[Jonathan Kay]

The Assembly Guide mentions how the bolt and nut "fit into the cutaway provided". Does that make any sense on yours? Is "the cutaway" "the notch"?

Otherwise as Jim 123 says in #8: loosen everything and try again.

Jonathan

[Wrightpayne]

Would squeezing the flanges together before inserting the bolt work? (Ooo errrrr missus)

Ian

[ScottR400D]

When I built my car I couldn't get the bolt through. I spoke with Derek who told me I may need to relieve the hole in the casting but he'd send me another joint in any case. 

The second joint was just the same. Levering open the gap, or squeezing it makes no difference; the issue was that the bolt impinges on the shaft that the UJ is being put on to. I can't see how loosening the rack or anything would help, as the joint is articulated  

I think the only way is to use a rat tail to open up the hole in 1 side or both of the casting. It's only a tiny amount and isn't significantly detrimental. It's also easy to do. 

[Tin Man]

Hi Scott

That  was my thought too.

Thanks

John

[Jim 123]

On my build, fitting the u/j loosely bolted to the rack firstly, and then fitting the u/j coupling to the lower steering column worked without needing to get my drill out to modify a safety critical component (probably drilling is safe enough, but I prefer things to work as per spec. where possible)..  However the steering column splines would not engage satisfactorily without the rack assembly being slightly articulated.

John, perhaps stating the obvious, but just in case, remember that when you fit this lot make sure that the front wheels and the steering wheel are properly aligned before you bolt it together.

[OliverSedlacek]

I'm struggling to describe what I mean, but I've found that on mine it's possible to mis-align the UJ on the splines. If the splines first engage at the open end, they can be one spline out. You can't easily see what you've done, but my approach is to sort of roll the UJ on to the splines from the closed end.

[Tin Man]

I have spoken to Tony at Caterham, and he stated that they have the same issue at the factory. He has sent me another u/j with one end drilled out to 9mm. He also stated that this still might need to be drilled another step before fitting to the rack. Great customer service from Tony at Caterham  

[ScottR400D]

Drilling will work but you're removing more material than necessary because it's only needed on the outside of the hole to let the bolt move away from the splines. A rat tail where necessary is the better way imo. 

[robjjones]

I had the very same problem in my build and wrecked a bolt trying to make it fit. A few minutes with a file sorted the UJ ready for a replacement bolt. Literally 1mm or so all round sees it fit easily.

My experience in more detail here: http://caterham360build.co.uk/2016/12/12/steering/

[Ols]

Just replaced mine last week and same issue. As per scottr400d and robjones, just relieve the bolt hole in the uj (very little required) and it's fine.

[Tin Man]

Fitted the new one today, still had to relieve the hole with a file.