robjjones

CtrMint, no heat or humidity needed, it goes off by itself after a short while, about an hour from memory. It is considerably easier to shift out of the tube in warmer conditions though, I broke a skeleton gun on my first attempt on a cold February morning. Mine also fell off, embarrassingly, as I was too kind to my wing-stays on my first attempt and did not properly rough them up to assist in the bonding. Take a file and hacksaw to them before you apply the adhesive and scrape about on the inside of the cycle wing to increase the surface area available for adhesion. And don't be shy with the Teroson.

Word is it won't fit, so if you have a decat pipe suitable for a Duratec SV 360 lurking in your garage, please give me a shout.

Thanks Paul, I'll ask Caterham about compatibility and drop you a PM with my email address. Rob.

Hi All, I'm looking for a decat pipe to fit my 2017 Duratec SV 360S. Please give me a shout with a price if you have one going to waste in the back of the garage. It needs to be in good nick or capable of being polished into good nick please, as my current exhaust is still lovely and shiny. All the best, Rob.

Jig, I've got both fitted. I've added a set of Triton harnesses to my inertia reels by using the method Paul suggests above. I thought I'd not bother with the harness when nipping out for a quick run, but in reality only ever use the harnesses. This isn't safety based. With their fastenings, these isn't anywhere for them to go when I am in the seat. I'd imagined clipping them together behind the seat, but no. For road driving, I don't believe they are any more or less safe than the inertias, if correctly adjusted. If not correctly adjusted, they are considerably less safe, so they do mean a few extra seconds every time you drive. On the track, harnesses are a must. Unless you are tracking the car then, I'd think long and hard about the convenience of the inertias. Of course, having harnesses does also add to the theatre of taking a drive, they do feel a bit special, and passengers love them, so there is that to consider too. In terms of fitting, when re-using the existing fittings you just need to be careful about the length of bolts used for the outer lower fixing points. Too long, and they will punch through the outer skin. I measured the length of the bolt I removed, added the spacer length and bought a couple of suitable UNF bolts. I think mine were 7/16" and 1.5" threaded section, but yours might be different.

Hi Chris, I've just replaced mine too, under warranty. The M8 nut is closest to the drive shaft ring, with one small locknut at this side, and one at the plastic locknut end. If I can work out how to attach the picture and instructions CC send me, I'll post it here. I also received a new bracket, but it would have been a simple job to drill out the hole in the old one. Cheers, Rob.

I'm the same, Pugwash. Mirrors still on the windscreen, unmolested doors.

Hi Jonathan, Could I have one canister and one black roll please? Thanks, Rob.

I had the very same problem in my build and wrecked a bolt trying to make it fit. A few minutes with a file sorted the UJ ready for a replacement bolt. Literally 1mm or so all round sees it fit easily. My experience in more detail here: http://caterham360build.co.uk/2016/12/12/steering/

Hi Gordon, I'm 200 miles into my fresh-build 360S SV, and can report a similar experience with the open diff to your LSD. Clunking, sounds like a bag of nails in 2nd and 3rd on the overrun. Kangarooing in slow traffic. Oh, and the lovely anti-social popping and banging on the overrun too. Had to mention that. I don't think anything is wrong, and the kangarooing It's nothing to do with the light flywheel in my opinion (as I don't have one), I just haven't mastered the clutch sensitivity needed yet. Best bet is to go to that local meet and compare notes in person. But don't worry in the meantime. Rob.

Two very bright Sevens, one with full roll cage, traveling in convoy towards the M8 near Livingston on Thursday 18th. Green/yellow, stripes. Didn't have time to spot a plate.

Thanks Jim. It's been an experience, and I'm a lot more mechanically savvy than I was in the early days of the build and fitting those headlights. I'm quite sad it is coming to an end, but also looking forward to the summer and hitting the road. Not long now!

I've been busy over the winter. Here's the latest milestone. ​Not too much more to do now, aside from poppers and carpet and, uh, fibreglass bits.

Good luck Jig! Arrival day is great fun. My head melted I think. I'm about half-way through my build, and it is a great experience, although chilly at the moment. Frustration is common, grazed knuckles more so. So is the massive sense of achievement when you complete a job. Cheers, Rob.

James, No washer indicated in my current build, which includes a track day roll-over bar. There is a spring washer and a plain washer on the set screws though. Details of my install and hopefully useful photos here: Roll-over bar install. Good luck.

There will be lots of interest on here Steve, so please do take photos. If you don't have your own blog, perhaps a blog within the club site would be a good home for them? I can't help in terms of the process, but have you seen the Wheeler Dealers episode where Edd China replaces the floors? Series 12 Ep 13 will give you a good feel for the process. You can generally find it on You Tube or its repeated on Discovery channel every few weeks at the moment. Good luck with the installation, I'll be watching out for the updates. Rob.

I've invested in a set of wobble bars, thanks Scott. I still haven't quite managed to get the traction I wanted though, so I've judged the torque by feel against the bottom damper bolt using an Allen key, and made a note to get it checked at IVA. It's been a great excuse to buy more tools. I've got a set of crows feet arriving tomorrow, too.

Yes, it's metric now. I'll have a look at wobble bars Scott. I need to see one to know if they would work. Thanks again. Rob.

Thanks chaps. The ball end hex driver will see me sorted I think. My extension and conventional hex socket is at too oblique an angle to get the straight end into the head. I used a ball end Allen key to get it out. Off to the shops I go. Much appreciated.

Build is going well, had a good weekend last weekend. However, I was foxed by the top damper bolt and getting this little devil to the right torque. Having wrestled it into position, I can't get a torque wrench on it. I could leave it to PBC, but would rather not. Any guidance please folks?

Pugwash, thanks for the detailed description of your method. I can see that's a workable solution, much better than my half-imagined, half-arsed approaches. There are many ways to skin a cat, it seems. However, my brackets and lights are now mounted and, barring the bloody things not working when I wire them up, they are not coming off the car again. Onwards to a complete front suspension!

On it Jim, as they say, like a car bonnet. I've read a lot of blogs where the headlights are mounted by the builder after they have mounted the bracket to the chassis and the engine has gone in. It doesn't make sense to me, but I guess the thinking is that the headlights are out of the way of the swinging engine/gearbox. When I thought about this, I preferred to take the chance with any headlight/engine interface to save exactly the nightmare you describe, of trying to get the wiring through two grommets in the bracket with no way of pushing them directly through, and half-arsed plans to pull them through with string. I'll have them on this weekend, just in time for my uprights to arrive (they're out of stock at the moment).

Jim. Thank you. It seems so obvious now. Your little tip has saved me from making an arse of the upper wishbone suspension mount with a drill. I am, sir, forever in your debt. Rob.

So it's a case of one step forwards and two back at the moment. Lower wishbones are in (controversially with the 0-4-0 washer placement) and the upper wishbones are currently being delayed by the fettling required to get the headlight brackets to fit. I'm girding my loins to drill through the mismatched holes in the bracket on the LHS so I can get the bolt through the bracket, chassis and upper wishbone mount - see photo below. In the meantime I've fiddled with the headlight wiring and shrinkwrap lots of times only to take it all off again when the brackets failed to fit, to put it back, to remove it again. Another lesson in trying a dry fit before diving in. This is such a learning experience, despite the setbacks and slow progress, I'm loving it.

Good luck Jason. Hopefully you'll be underway with the actual build very soon. Rob.