K series sump plug drip

[Julian H]

Just changed my oil and now my [wet] sump plug leaks.

Drip........ drip........ drip tightened to 25nm.

Drip... drip... drip tightened it to 30nm. 

A little more, 35nm, now drip, drip, drip, drip...

Am I a drip? What have I done?

 

 

[revilla]

It's not grounded and cracked the sump has it? Just wondering if tightening the plug is opening a crack.

[Jonathan Kay]

• No leak before?
• Old plug refitted?
• Did you use a washer or any sealant?

...

Discussion of options.

Jonathan

[SM25T]

Don't over tighten it. Drop oil into clean container for re use. Clean plug and face of sump. Check sealing face around thread on sump. Replace copper washer or use Dowty seal washer. Bit of blue Hylomar on thread of plug.

[Julian H]

Hi

No leak previously. I cleaned the surfaces first time and reused the old washer and used a little lock and seal on the thread and washer. Should I have used Hylomar?

[ECR]

If you're reusing a copper sealing washer it's best to anneal it before refitting (it softens it and allows it to form to the sealing faces better).

Heat the washer to cherry red and then either allow to air cool or quench in water

(careful you don't melt the washer)

[DJ.]

Too late to say now, but I always use a new washer. They aren't expensive and having to remove all the oil and refill is a pain in the proverbial

No need to use lock tight or sealant in my opinion.

Duncan

[Roadsport06]

As already said, drain oil. I'd degrease sump and take a look for a crack and striped thread for the sump plug. Certainly needs a new washer as the old one has been crushed. You can heat a copper washer in a flame if you wanted to reuse but new ones are pence. Shouldn't need anything other than a washer to seal.

[Graham King]

Julian, as others have said, do not over tighten the sump plug, it is very easy to strip the thread in the sump. In your situation I'd drain the oil back out, check the thread, assuming it's ok then fit a new washer and redo. I also tend to use plumbers tape wrapped round the sump plug.

Graham

[SM25T]

If you do strip the thread .... you can drill and tap next size up. After you have done this too many times, you could get a bit of decent grade ali bar welded in the hole then drill and tap smaller size again. The sump material isn't high grade ali.

[Julian H]

Hi

Before all the above replies regarding new washer, reannealing etc.., I removed the plug, blocked up the hole with a suitable rubber bung, cleaned all the surfaces refitted plug to 25nm with Hylomar Blue on thread and washer. Some of the thread is not nice to turn, although I don't think it is stripped. Unfortunately, I went out just after I did it so can't see whether my second attempt has worked.

In the process, I lost no more than 100ml of oil into a clean container. I'll have a look in the morning before I go to work. Fingers crossed 

[Jonathan Kay]

What sort of washer?

Hope it's fixed. If it's dry now how about dropping the sump and cleaning and checking the thread next time you want to change the oil?

Jonathan

[Julian H]

Its a copper washer. 

That's exactly what I thought. If I have got away with it this time, next time I change the oil I'll take the pan off and check it all over. Hopefully by that time I will have a dry sump though! That's what I really need!

[SM25T]

The tiniest bit of dirt, or a scratch on the sealing face would cause a drip.

[grumpy the 7th]

If the sump plug is M14 (19mm socket) what size copper washer do you need?

[Wrightpayne]

If you have one already you can re anneal (soften) it. Heat till cherry red and quench it.

I’ve never changed a copper washer. Heat cycles work harden it so it doesnt seal so well. 

Ian

 

[Piers300]

My K 1.8 wet sump has a 14mm sump plug. It may be the same as a dry sump plug. Please check.

The 14 mm sump plug is from a Land Rover 300TDI and part number: UAM2957L. It comes with the washer.

 

Piers

 

[rj]

It is not.

The dry sump plug (same as used in the apollo tank) is off a Sierra diff. This has been out of stock for a while at CC.

If I remmber correctly the Sierra diff is M20x1.5 whereas the later wet sump pans are M14x1.5. I know because I had to buy a Timesert set to repair mine. I ended up welding on a short bushing to ensure enough thread as the original design is a bit on the weak side, especially if you preform an oil change every month over the summer like I do. (One trackday = new oil).

You can get various plugs and if the thread is stripped you could re-cut it to IE M16x1.5. Retain the same pitch and you'll be fine. Then, rather than the copper washer, use a dowty seal and if you're really good cross drill the plug and find somewhere to attach lock wire - then you won't have to overtighten the new plug.

 

[Piers300]

RJ. I have just searched for magnetic drain plugs and found a company called Magnetic drain plugs.co.uk. Looks a good product with very high quality magnets fitted and they do all sizes. Not sure if it would be good for a differential, but I would use it on my engine.

Piers

[p.mole1]

Try a Dowty washer

[rj]

Piers,

They look nice. I managed to source five from a local Ford dealer meaning that I'l sorted for now.

[john milner]

15mm sump plug for mine due to my over-tightening and needing a rethread. I use blue Hylomar and a new copper washer although I have in the past successfully used secondhand washers with PTFE tape at the bolt head end of the thread and blue Hylormar on the main part. Care is needed with sealants as you don't want any in lubrication system so I apply it to the bolt and not the hole. Leaving the end clean that could touch the oil bath.

For magnets I've got the type that stick on the outside of oil filters. I'm not convinced they do a lot on a modernish engine but I can't see them causing harm to the engine and they just might do some good. Keep super strong magnets away from children, animals and food.

[Wrightpayne]

You shouldnt use PTFE on oil fittings / seals - only takes a bit ingested into the oil system to cause problems.

 

[rj]

+1

 

[john milner]

I take the point but I only used tape right near the head so no chance of it ending up in the system. I've now got a small stock of 9/16 copper washers so no tape should be needed in the future.