Piers300

TADTS

I bought a new Super Sprint in late 1985. It was live axle and the last chassis number before the first de Dion. However, I sold it many years ago to Belgium and believe it is now in Germany. Piers

I think I am correct in saying that if it is a factory build or kit Super Sprint with 135 bhp, then I would expect it to have electronic ignition as standard. My 1985 Super Sprint was fitted with it as standard. Someone will be along who knows. Losing power going up a hill sounds like fuel starvation. I would have a look at the fuel pump and if it still has the original fitted, change it to a new one. Maybe the float levels in the Webber's, but getting beyond my knowledge. Good luck finding the issue. Piers

Caterham have them in stock at £594.00. You could also try Sevens & Classics and Redline Components. I hit an unseen rock in mine.An expensive mistake. Piers

The sliders get covered in crud and small stones. Are you sitting in the seat when trying to move it ? If it won't move, then taking the seat out and cleaning everything is the best bet. Not easy to get to the bolts on your own and they tend to spin. It's frustrating but you will get there in the end. Putting grease on the sliders can cause issues as it attracts the dust/stones , so I am not sure what the best solution is. I just used WD40. Piers

I bought my second 7 in June 2010 and as I had nothing better to do this afternoon, I added up all the servicing and ancillary items expenditure from 2010 to 2021. It came to £9795 and this excludes insurance and road tax. Initially, I thought that's a lot, then realised it worked out at £ 890 per year, which was not too bad at all. In comparison to Porsche or other expensive cars, it's peanuts. Piers

Just a thought. Land Rover have set up a restoration business and are offering complete restoration and re-builds of the old Land Rover Series 1,2,3 ect + other models. It is I believe, pretty expensive to have one done, even if you supply the original vehicle. If the EV is going to kill CC, then maybe starting a restoration business in their works, may be an option. They could offer to completely rebuild any Caterham to the original specification or customer requirements. As they have the rights to the Lotus 7, they could also include restoration of older Lotus 7's, Series 1,2,3 and may be even S4. It could be a business saver. Piers

There are battery chargers of many different types. 1) Standard battery charger provides a constant voltage and current. So when charging, you may see 14.2 volts or so at the battery terminals. They often have high and low settings switch, so this will set the voltage charge level, which won't change. The current level is either pre-set or adjustable by a switch. Either way, once fully charged, it continues to provide the high amps and volts that are now not needed, so if left unattended, will over time boil the battery. 2) Constant Potential (Automatic) Chargers. The constant potential charger provides a charging voltage and current that will reduce, as the internal battery voltage increases. It will start off a say 14.2 V and gradually reduce the voltage. Once the internal battery voltage and charging voltage are equal, NO CURRENT FLOWS. So although connected, nothing is happening charge wise. If there is an internal voltage change in the battery, the charger will increase the voltage and current to reach full charge, I have a CTEK that is connected to my mower when not in use 24/7. Also the Caterham has another type which has been on the battery for 10 years. I spent 23 years in the industrial battery charger business, but have been retired for 5 years and there has been many improvements/changes to chargers.

Andrew. I assume your original CR500's were 195/45/15. On my car, there is virtually no clearance between the bracket for the cycle wings and the tyre. I bought an additional set of Caterham 10 spoke rims and tyres fitted with 195/50/15, but they fouled the bracket on the front. Of course, no problem on the rear tyres. So to that end, I progressed no further, but I was able to buy one of the last 4 x 195/45/15 CR500's. However, that was a few years ago now, so they are probably getting hard and need to be replaced. So I'm watching your post with interest. regards Piers

As Ian says (#4). You need to get in there and dry it out. Obviously, don't take out the spark plugs till completely dry. Piers

Chances are that the plug wells will be full of water. Remove everything needed to get in there and dry it out. Piers

I would also examine and check the wires and connector to the alternator. Give them a close inspection for a bad connection. I do however suspect you have a faulty alternator. Piers

I would check the battery charge voltage when the engine is running and if I recall, you should see around 13.6 to 14.2 volts dc. If the voltage is only 12 volts when the engine is running, then you have a problem with the alternator or a slipping belt. I would connect the charger directly to the battery, but make sure you are using a CTEK or similar Constant potential charger, I.e. fully automatic . With these chargers, you can leave it connected 24/7, as when the battery voltage and charger voltage are equal, then no current flows. Piers

At around 3:00 pm, a green 7 followed me down the Lavant Straight next to the Goodwood circuit. You turned right at the roundabout to I assume go to the circuit entrance. You were not close enough to spot the Lotus Seven Club sticker on the rear window of my blue Audi Avant. Car looked good in green. Piers

Yes, it’s not easy to do. It is some time since I had to do mine and I am sure I had to remove the exhaust pipes.I never considered undoing the engine mount and lifting the engine. That would be a better bet to start with, as I recall that it needed just a bit more space. Good luck.

Wrong sort of charger used. Try a CTEK 0.8 amp or 5 amp. They are fully automatic and you can leave them connected 24/7. However, the Banner may now be knackered. Piers

Only ever fill the water bottle to half and this reduces it substantially.

Bill. Have you checked what grade of fuel you need to put in your new Caterham. My Owners handbook says 98 RON for mine, but it is an old 2004 K Series. I found over the years that Shell or BP premium fuel gets the best results. I am not sure what grade of fuel the Ford engines use but do find out. I think there is someone in the Club on BC who works in the Fuel Supply Industry and it is all down to additives. Hopefully he will comment. The Supermarkets have the I believe the minimum of additives, while Shell , BP and Esso are the better quality suppliers.

Just don’t be in a rush and fill it very slowly. As said above, varying the angle helps, but it is a slow process. Piers

Sorry, hands full today with visiting service engineers curing problems. I'll do it tomorrow. Piers

I stand corrected. Most definitely an R300. SDK is the CC build. R is right hand drive. D is De Dion. S5 is series 5 i.e.SV and R3 is R300 and the next 3 is part of your serial number. All details are on frequently asked questions on this site. I am not sure how many R300 SV’s were built. Do you know? Piers

Lee. I've not seen an R300K without a red started button. I am always ready to be corrected. Your chassis number should start with SDKRD3xxxxxxxxxx The SDK is the CC build reference, the R is right hand drive, The D is De Dion and the 3 means R300. The engine number (Caterham) will also end with R300. I think your issue is a sticky solenoid in the starter motor. You need to remove it and give it a really good clean or get a local Alternator/Starter motor repair shop to give it a good going over. During my fault finding, I was getting severe voltage drop on cranking with a new battery. By cleaning up all the earth cables, we got a big improvement, if I remember from 6.6 volts up to 9.00 or so. It's a few years ago, but all detailed in A Reluctant Starter. Good luck Piers

Here is a better photo

I also have a 2004 R300. I’ve had huge starting problems over the years until finally sorted by S&C. You say you start it by the key !!! Surely you mean the red starter button. My starting problem turned out to be a bad earth. It took two and a half years to find. I gave up in the end. If you have some time to spare, you can read it by searching for A Reluctant Starter. Agree with Paul. Also clean all earth straps and if you can get it apart, the multi pin connector under the throttle bodies. Clean with contact cleaner. Mine was very corroded. When I start mine, I crank the engine with no Throttle. Once if fires and picks up , then throttle can be used. They run lumpy till warmed up. Piers

I will reply tomorrow as just done 5 and and half hours driving to visit my mother in a care home. Piers