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Piers300

Area Representative
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Everything posted by Piers300

  1. Thank you Elie. I will give that a go tomorrow. I have found an old sender, one that I replaced some time ago due to reading low. If shorting to earth proves the meter is good, I may substitute it temporally until I get a new one from Red Line. Hello Roger. Trust all well in France. Ian (SM25T) I knew that you would say that, but want my R300 to be Factory Standard. regards Piers
  2. This morning I started the 7 (1.8 K) for the first time since the MOT in February. The oil pressure gauge is flickering about and it has never done this before. It has the standard o/p electrical sensor, that I have replaced twice in 10 years. Oil level is fine. I suspect a duff sensor. Piers
  3. A number of years ago, we had a similar discussion on BC. At that time, I was working for a company that sold all things for Diesel engines. We sold senders that were made in China and they were absolutely Sh1te. To evaluate them, we tried to run them on our test diesels for 1000 hours. All the Chinese ones tested failed within 20 hours. OK they were cheap, but the quality was awful. The best ones without question were European made by VDO and they were still working when we finished testing. Mind you, 1000 hours running on a big diesel generator is nothing. So buying quality is the answer.
  4. I’m looking into Breakdown Cover for my wife and myself. I’ve just read RAC’s terms and conditions and could not find any reference to older cars, as my 7 is 2004, plus my Audi is 5 years old. I would want the car (7) transported home from anywhere in the UK in the event of an unfixable problem. I am not considering European travel this year. So I have looked at RAC, what else is available. I would like a company who won’t say NO to trying to fix or transporting a 7. The RAC quote is optionally based on covering you and wife, rather than a specific car. Is it worth a call to the RAC to check that it would be covered ? Piers
  5. It’s chassis is detailed as SDKRDSLRXXXXXXX. If it is an R300, then the chassis number should have R3 included, so it would be SDKRDSLR3xxxxxxxx. I am sure it has, but best clarified. Piers
  6. Brushless alternators and motors have been around for a long time. No sparks! In the generator business, which I was in for 40 years plus, we have been using them since I stated in 1970. Piers
  7. I would take it to one of the exhaust specialists and see if they can modify an end cap and re-stuff. Piers
  8. Piers300

    S2 Lotus Seven

    The company “Redline” here in the UK can provide you with spare parts and is the official distributor. Plus they export all over the world. They are also very knowledgeable. Piers
  9. Check the electrical multi pin connector under the T/B’s. Mine was green with corrosion and use contact electrical cleaner. It’s not easy to separate. Also clean all main earth connections. Also check earth connection for ECU. Piers
  10. I spotted a grey 7 on Saturday morning in Hythe at 10:15. Looked possibly like a CSR. I was in my tin top. Piers
  11. Three Sevens in convoy on the A29. One was green, didn’t see the other two colours. If you were at the Revival, you left very early. I’m going tomorrow. Piers
  12. Very well done Andrew. Piers
  13. I had a bad case of failing to start (R300 2004) The engine would crank, with a spark, but the injectors would not fire. Squirting fuel into the throttle bodies and it would start immediately. Turned out to be a bad earth on the ECU. Piers
  14. If you have a bad ECU earth, the pump will run and give fuel and there will be a spark. Every thing you need, except the bad earth prevents the injectors from firing. Ask me how I know - it took a few years to find. On mine, if you squirted fuel into the throttle bodies, it would start immediately and run fine. It would also start some of the time when hot. It did my head in trying to find the problem and in the end, Sevens & Classics found the problem. It got worse and worse over a two year period till in the end it would not start without a squirt of fuel into the T/B’s. Piers
  15. After you have done a few thousand miles, the drop links may rattle a bit . Mine did and were replaced by PGM, as serviceable items. That was a few years ago and they rattle nicely now so due for replacement any time soon. I've enjoyed reading all your posts and I am pleased that you are now enjoying the driving. Piers
  16. Point taken Stu and my tank has now done 30,000 miles and at the moment does not leak. The point I was really trying to make was that a leaking fuel tank is a serious hazard. In fact, it is a failure I’m assuming will happen at some point on my 7, just due to age. I will just replace the tank, when the time comes. I’m not so sure about the integral fuel pump (K series R300), as I believe they are no longer made or available. Piers
  17. Andy. Sorry, no idea where to buy it, but suggest you contact your local car paint spray specialist or car paint supplier. I got the reference paint code, so I could specify it to a wheel refurbishment company. However in the end, I bought a spare set of wheels, so I never used it. Piers
  18. I wouldn’t mess around with a repair on something so safety critical. Sounds like CC are doing the right thing. Piers
  19. Anthracite wheel colour is Carr’s -1L1424ST.SP base coat with a Clear powder lacquer top coat. Piers
  20. Yes, that’s us from East Kent’s trip to East Anglia and staying in Lowestoft. Today was Adnams in Southwold and tomorrow we are going to an aircraft museum where the is a car show, then home. Piers
  21. I had a 1985 Super Sprint for 25 years and it was a very slow filler. I tried all positions, but in the end just filled it slowly. Piers
  22. I had a real problem with starting my R300 from cold. In fact, it would not fire at all when cranking, but would start and run immediately, if I squirted fuel into each throttle body. This turned out to be a bad earth on the ECU, plus cleaning all the major earth connections dramatically improved the battery voltage dip on cranking, which helped the ECU fire the injectors. It may not be your issue, but cleaning all the main earths will hopefully help. Piers
  23. I think you will find this useful. Colour is Carrs - 1L1424ST.SP Base Coat with a clear Lacquer top coat. I got this information back in 2013 and no complaints from anyone who I gave the information to. Piers
  24. The alternator windings are double dipped in a protective solution when being made. It is important that the alternator gets sufficient cooling air, so restricting air flow would in my opinion not be good. The windings do get hot when the alternator is working so it will dry out. The thing to avoid is salty water or even a saline environment, as this is corrosive and will attack the windings over a period of time and gradually reduce the resistance. Personally I would just leave it alone and standard. Piers
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