Pauls SLR

Neil - sent you an email regarding these if they are still available? Paul

I changed from the short stem which seemed to give me a great view of the roll bar cross member to the tall stem which is much better rear view but fairly restricting of the front near side view. Neither ideal but I was planning on swapping back to the shorter version so at least I get a decent view forwards. Limitless, did you fabricate your own bracket to have the mirror in that position or buy something off the shelf? Any change of a pic?

Thanks RJ. That would be great. I'll PM you to work it out. Paul

Norman Thank you. Yes - the anodised are a matte finish. So I'm happy to pass for Roger:-)

As above I'm after a windscreen with anodised frame / stanchions and doors for an S3. Also need wiper motor / arms and door mirrors / rear view mirror to complete to install. I'm in North Dorset. Many thanks Paul

It may have been condensation. I'm wondering whether it would be worthwhile putting a thin bead of silicone around the joints at each end of the casing to prevent water ingress. My car only really comes out sunny weekends so it's never really been drenched on the road. I don't wash it that often either!

Just to draw a line under this for anyone interested or to potentially help anyone else with a similar issue I exchanged a couple of emails with Karl at Emerald and sent the ECU up to him. He found some minor corrosion on the board on the trace to pin 4 and has fixed this. It was actually below the 36 pin connector so wasn't really visible until he removed the connector which may be why I missed it. Appears perhaps some moisture has got in at some stage: and I thought I was a fair weather motorist! Great service - it was in and out of Emerald the same day. Now just need some decent weather over the Christmas period so I can get out in the car. Many thanks for all the guidance on this thread. Paul

Mine is MD3K. Just as a final aside, I have opened the ECU. No obvious signs of corrosion or issues, but just as a little test if I use an earthed wire touched on the solder joint on the back of the board corresponding to pin 4 the relay is activated and I can start the car and it runs. As soon as I remove the wire the engine stops. I am assuming this means an issue with the ECU so probably can't go any further until Karl gets back to me, hopefully in the week.

I've checked the ECU earthing with multimeter and also run a cable direct from the ECU to battery earth and this doesn't help. I'm now convinced it is an issue with the ECU. I'm away from the car this morning but might open the ECU this afternoon and see whether there is a failed joint in there somewhere. Thank you all for the help and suggestions

Andrew Ive got 12v on pin 3 of the MFRU whether the ignition is on or off. I've checked continuity from here to pin 4 on the ECU (I'm EU2) and that is fine, so it looks like it is the ECU not grounding the relay to allow it to work. As a check I connected the spare MFRU I have a d that gives the same. Ive emailed Karl at Emerald regarding the ECU so I guess I need to wait for a response from him in the week. sylvaman, that's a really kind offer - I will see how Karl responds and go from there. Paul

Right. A quick update for anyone who hasn't given up on me!!! I've removed the MFRU cover and have found if I manually push the solenoid contact on the bottom right relay (main relay) the car will start perfectly on the key and runs correctly. As soon as I release the solenoid arm the car then stops. I happen to have a spare MFRU in the garage, so thinking I'd cracked it I fitted that. Same scenario. So it seems there is an issue in triggering the main relay. I'm slightly struggling with the diagrams I have to trace the wiring. Could anyone here outline the path from the key through I assume the grey plug to the main relay on the MFRU? What colour wires and which pin in the grey plug? Thanks all for the help so far. Paul

JK PM sent (two actually!)

Thnks for all the ideas. JK Yes - I have a multimeter. I have an old wiring diagram but some has not corresponded to what I've found. It's not the battery. Voltages are good and cranking from both a starter pack or another vehicle has made no difference. I've tried with the immobiliser deactivated in the Emerald ECU which has made no difference so assume that is OK and have checked the inertia switch. I tested spark by removing a plug and shorting on the block whilst cranking: no spark visualised. Used a NOID light on the injector loom and no current to that. Also removed an injector and put it in a jam jar and cranked. No fuel coming out. When I first got marooned on the side of the road I moved the loom around and got it to start again and managed to get home. However this hasn't been repeatable since. Unwrapping the loom wasn't early in the process!! I've been through all the obvious things first! Checked the fuses and they are OK. Yes 30A for ECU. I have a suspicion now that I'm not getting power from the MFRU as this seems to be shared between injectors and coil. This may be a connection with the grey plug under the TBs so will check that tomorrow. If you have a wiring diagram I'd grateful if you could send that for me to compare the one I have. BTW I have plugged in a spare MFRU and that also made no difference so that is out! Can anyone confirm which wires from the grey plug activate the MFRU for the injectors and coil? Thanks all Paul

Brian The Emerald is not OBD compliant. But thanks for the tip. I'll look at the crank sensor. 7WW yes the pump is priming.

It's red switching on the ignition then green on cranking