Pauls SLR

Neil - sent you an email regarding these if they are still available? Paul

I changed from the short stem which seemed to give me a great view of the roll bar cross member to the tall stem which is much better rear view but fairly restricting of the front near side view. Neither ideal but I was planning on swapping back to the shorter version so at least I get a decent view forwards. Limitless, did you fabricate your own bracket to have the mirror in that position or buy something off the shelf? Any change of a pic?

Thanks RJ. That would be great. I'll PM you to work it out. Paul

Norman Thank you. Yes - the anodised are a matte finish. So I'm happy to pass for Roger:-)

As above I'm after a windscreen with anodised frame / stanchions and doors for an S3. Also need wiper motor / arms and door mirrors / rear view mirror to complete to install. I'm in North Dorset. Many thanks Paul

It may have been condensation. I'm wondering whether it would be worthwhile putting a thin bead of silicone around the joints at each end of the casing to prevent water ingress. My car only really comes out sunny weekends so it's never really been drenched on the road. I don't wash it that often either!

Just to draw a line under this for anyone interested or to potentially help anyone else with a similar issue I exchanged a couple of emails with Karl at Emerald and sent the ECU up to him. He found some minor corrosion on the board on the trace to pin 4 and has fixed this. It was actually below the 36 pin connector so wasn't really visible until he removed the connector which may be why I missed it. Appears perhaps some moisture has got in at some stage: and I thought I was a fair weather motorist! Great service - it was in and out of Emerald the same day. Now just need some decent weather over the Christmas period so I can get out in the car. Many thanks for all the guidance on this thread. Paul

Mine is MD3K. Just as a final aside, I have opened the ECU. No obvious signs of corrosion or issues, but just as a little test if I use an earthed wire touched on the solder joint on the back of the board corresponding to pin 4 the relay is activated and I can start the car and it runs. As soon as I remove the wire the engine stops. I am assuming this means an issue with the ECU so probably can't go any further until Karl gets back to me, hopefully in the week.

I've checked the ECU earthing with multimeter and also run a cable direct from the ECU to battery earth and this doesn't help. I'm now convinced it is an issue with the ECU. I'm away from the car this morning but might open the ECU this afternoon and see whether there is a failed joint in there somewhere. Thank you all for the help and suggestions

Andrew Ive got 12v on pin 3 of the MFRU whether the ignition is on or off. I've checked continuity from here to pin 4 on the ECU (I'm EU2) and that is fine, so it looks like it is the ECU not grounding the relay to allow it to work. As a check I connected the spare MFRU I have a d that gives the same. Ive emailed Karl at Emerald regarding the ECU so I guess I need to wait for a response from him in the week. sylvaman, that's a really kind offer - I will see how Karl responds and go from there. Paul

Right. A quick update for anyone who hasn't given up on me!!! I've removed the MFRU cover and have found if I manually push the solenoid contact on the bottom right relay (main relay) the car will start perfectly on the key and runs correctly. As soon as I release the solenoid arm the car then stops. I happen to have a spare MFRU in the garage, so thinking I'd cracked it I fitted that. Same scenario. So it seems there is an issue in triggering the main relay. I'm slightly struggling with the diagrams I have to trace the wiring. Could anyone here outline the path from the key through I assume the grey plug to the main relay on the MFRU? What colour wires and which pin in the grey plug? Thanks all for the help so far. Paul

JK PM sent (two actually!)

Thnks for all the ideas. JK Yes - I have a multimeter. I have an old wiring diagram but some has not corresponded to what I've found. It's not the battery. Voltages are good and cranking from both a starter pack or another vehicle has made no difference. I've tried with the immobiliser deactivated in the Emerald ECU which has made no difference so assume that is OK and have checked the inertia switch. I tested spark by removing a plug and shorting on the block whilst cranking: no spark visualised. Used a NOID light on the injector loom and no current to that. Also removed an injector and put it in a jam jar and cranked. No fuel coming out. When I first got marooned on the side of the road I moved the loom around and got it to start again and managed to get home. However this hasn't been repeatable since. Unwrapping the loom wasn't early in the process!! I've been through all the obvious things first! Checked the fuses and they are OK. Yes 30A for ECU. I have a suspicion now that I'm not getting power from the MFRU as this seems to be shared between injectors and coil. This may be a connection with the grey plug under the TBs so will check that tomorrow. If you have a wiring diagram I'd grateful if you could send that for me to compare the one I have. BTW I have plugged in a spare MFRU and that also made no difference so that is out! Can anyone confirm which wires from the grey plug activate the MFRU for the injectors and coil? Thanks all Paul

Brian The Emerald is not OBD compliant. But thanks for the tip. I'll look at the crank sensor. 7WW yes the pump is priming.

It's red switching on the ignition then green on cranking

The car is a 2002 SLR so k series with Emerald ECU. I'm not getting either a spark or any fuel from the injectors. I have unwrapped the loom and looked at all the likely connections. I found a couple of connections which looked poor but didn't seem to have failed. I re-did some of these and then put the loom back in just held together with cable ties, not taped up. The car ran fine for a couple of runs out. I then decided it was fixed so took the loom out and taped it all up and re-fitted. Now I'm back to square one and exactly the same issue. I'm not sure now whether there is just a faulty connection or plug somewhere but I'm not sure I've got the energy to take it all apart again when I don't really have much expertise in electrical faults!

Can anyone here suggest a decent garage / auto electrician who might be able to help finding a problem with my wiring. Having spent hours trying to work through the loom and then thinking I'd fixed it and having a couple of short blats I was gutted to find the car now won't start again. I've barely used the car this year and was hoping to get some miles on it over the Christmas break. I'm in North Dorset but happy to travel as I really want this sorted properly now. Thanks in advance Paul

Having gone through my loom and all connections I’m fairly sure my electrical woes are down to a failed MFRU Anyone have a spare available for sale (or else borrow for me to confirm?) Thanks for looking. Paul

That’s great: thanks all

Elie Thanks - I looked at them but they don’t seem to have just the pins separate from the whole connectors. I’ll wait until Monday and give them a call.

As a result of an ongoing electrical problem I’m going through my engine loom at the moment. The grey 14 way connector to the car loom is I believe a Sumitomo unit. The pin connectors seem to be slightly different to those in the Econoseal units of the remaining connectors. Does anyone know of a source for the pins - I need a handful of both male and female and the seals that accompany them? Thanks Paul

Indeed. It was actually one of the crimped connectors in the plug onto the ECU. I found wiggling the connector allowed me to start the car and the wiggling it again stalled it. I’ve put a new crimp connector in and although I haven’t been for a test drive tonight it starts and runs in the garage. If it stays reliable for now a custom loom might be my over the Winter project. Paul

Yep. I wasn’t planning on touching the car loom at this stage: maybe a project for my retirement

Thanks all. I feared that but not sure my wiring skills run to a whole loom. Perhaps if I can find an old loom to pick apart to get an idea of the wiring. At least I can now start / use the car. I have to say the standard loom with the various incorrect runs and random connectors has always felt like the worst part of the installation so it would be nice to have a custom loom without all the doubled over cables and twists and turns.

I have a 2002 k series SLR, running wasted spark with an Emerald ECU. A few weeks ago I decided to go for a blat and so opened the garage, but the car refused to start - it was turning over but not firing. Expecting visitors later that day I didn't have a chance to investigate so closed up the garage and aborted the blat. The following weekend I thought I'd try again. The car turning over well but not firing. I narrowed it to no signal getting to the injectors. Noid light on any of the injector connectors gave no light and also on the connection between engine loom and injector loom the same. I checked continuity between the ECU plug and the injectors and this all seemed OK. Also checked continuity to the coil as I believe the +ve to the injectors comes from there{?) Reconnected all the connectors, then out of curiosity put the Noid light back on and it flashed light. Car started normally! Assuming I just had a loose connection I hoped the issue was sorted and went for a lovely long drive. Just as I returned into my village the car stalled and I had to coast down a hill and home. Same symptoms, no power to the injectors but checked continuity in the loom and all seemed OK. I spent the rest of the day checking out the various connectors and wires in the loom with a multimeter. Couldn't find any issues but couldn't get the car to start. Got fed up and left it. Starting afresh today I plugged the laptop into the ECU. Only thing I found that I wasn't expecting was that as I tried to start the car the Lambda was showing as rich in the live adjustments tab, even when the engine was turning over but not running. Assuming a problem with the Lambda sensor I unplugged the connector but wasn't sure which pin did what on the connector. Plugged it back together and now the car starts and runs as it should. So - it might have been the contacts in the connector or a dodgy wire and moving the wires around has temporarily sorted that. It may be a dodgy wire somewhere else and I've just disturbed / moved that, or it could be the Lambda sensor itself? Sorry for the lengthy post but trying to be thorough! Questions are - would a failing Lambda sensor cause the ECU to stop sending power to the injectors? Same if it was just the connector failing or a dodgy wire from the Lambda? Is it normal for the live adjustments for the ECU to show as rich even when the engine isn't running? Otherwise I've got a loose wire somewhere that I cant find and even though the car will run I'll be paranoid every time I go out in it?? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance Paul