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instruments stopped working (UPDATED...)


the.vet

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Following on from my nausea issue in ChitChat I'm having trouble with the car.

 

Towards the end of a 1 hour track session I lost my gauges - all except the speedo

speedo. I can't find any loose fuses etc

Not sure where to start - dumped car in the garage and headed to bed feeling broken when I arrived home.

 

Please tailor any advice as if addressing a child - I'm mechanically retarded!!

 

Graeme

 

Edited by - the.vet on 21 Sep 2014 18:41:05

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1 Have a good rest. Remember how good you're going to feel when you've solved both problems.

 

2 Which model? Which instrument panel? Post a photo if you don't know how to describe it.

 

3 The most common cause of this sort of stuff is a bad earth connection. Has any work been done on it recently?

 

4 Do you have a multimeter already?

 

Jonathan

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Jonathan my dual saviour!

 

First trip out into the garage and it looks like I've run through manure on the way home. Garage smells like a farm yard!!!

 

The car is a 1999my 1800k. No recent work and has been behaving fine recently. It's got the bog standard caterham dash. I've now worked out that the instruments are not working

Nor is the heater fan and brake light test switch

 

I've pulled the red 10a fuse from the instrument section of the fuse block and can't get any continuity with a multi meter (visually it looks to have tripped too).

 

Should I replace the fuse and see what happens? (sorry if that is a really stupid question)

 

Graeme

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On my 1990 car (1988 wiring diagram) all of those things are indeed fed from the "Heater" fuse. So is the ignition light which gave me the strange effect of.... Ignition on, engine not running = no ignition light whilst Ignition on, engine running resulted in the ignition light illuminated.

 

Regards

Ian

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, so I changed the fuse and thought I'd sorted the problem but it reappeared this afternoon.

 

Instruments died after 10 minutes drive. Only this time I've noted some more points that may help to pinpoint where I should start looking.

 

Oil pressure, water temp, fuel level and revs all died. Switch lighting all still working. Speedo fine. Headlights were on.

 

After turning for home I noticed if I indicate left its fine, if I indicate right the indicators work but the instruments pulse up and down with the pulses of the lights. Also occurs when using hazards.

 

Now at home I changed the fuse - instruments working again. Then with engine off I checked the lights - indicators all working fine when ignition at position 2 (or is it 3 - fuel pump on). However - with ignition off I noticed left indicators work fine, right indicators give solid illumination of lights and can hear a relay in engine bay pulsing to freq of the flasher unit.

 

Given up and opened beer for the night - I hate electrics and i'm rather afraid to tinker without some expert direction. Would like to fix car ASAP as BIL visiting from NZ and wanted to scare him!

 

Graeme

 

Edited by - the.vet on 21 Sep 2014 18:48:14

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Check the flasher unit is plugged in securely ... they can work loose. Usually behind fuse rail ... just push all the relays home to be sure.

 

Also work hazard light switch on/off several times (power can be off) to mechanically clean the internal switch contacts. This is another known problem.

 

Either of the above can cause trouble.

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I can't explain what you are describing.

 

1 My indicators only come at all with the switch at "Ignition", not "Accessory". Have yours always come on at both positions and were any 7s built that way? Any suspicions that your car has been modified?

 

2 Why is the behaviour different between the LH and RH indicators? The flasher unit doesn't know which side is turned on.

 

What would I do?

 

1 Sort out exactly which fuse is controlling what. For any circuit that is in your list of concerns pull the fuses one at a time and see what doesn't work. Then tell us that with the fuse positions and current fuse ratings.

 

2 Open up all the indicators and start exploring. Is there a short to earth from any of the live sides?

 

3 As SM25T says.

 

4 Were those fuses blown or have you got a different sort of intermittent fault? Have a look at the link bit of the fuse that you removed and see if it's continuous and take this as a chance to make friends with your multimeter.

 

Jonathan

 

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  • 1 month later...

Ok, so having changed the flasher relay and hazard switch I still had no joy. Resorted to a quick call to the AA and the friendly chap happens to have a 7 type kit car! Fault diagnosed - the main loom under the dash has a short in it - the fault can be eradicated by manipulating the big thick black part of the loom.

 

Has anyone had a similar issue and any idea how to go about fixing it? dash out job?

 

Graeme

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It would be scuttle off, not dash out. Maybe you can see a screw near or piercing the loom with a phone camera .... take a few pics with flash on. Guess you know from AA man intervention which part of loom to narrow it down to. Good luck.
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As well as the visual inspection I'd spend a bit of time trying to locate the intermittent connection and understand the wiring. You might consider making a jump lead with crocodile clips and seeing what gets around the fault. This might offer a solution without getting in too deep. But if you do arrange a bypass wire as a solution rather than for diagnosis then make sure you disconnect the duff wire at both ends.

Jonathan

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 Whilst you have the dash out, it would be well worth your while replacing the temp and oil pressure gauges  with capillary versions, they are far more reliable and  only only require sparks for lighting. Demon tweaks do a reasonably priced range..

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If you into your local motor factor you can buy a sealey tester that you clip to the battery with a trailing lead and on the hand set probe  you can select live or earth, so for example if you suspect faulty earth you press earth side of the probe and apply to the faulty component if the component now works you at least know the reason why it didnt work and can look in the right direction. The probe set is a PP1 Sealey Test Probe £14.00 Amazon or good motor factors

phil

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  • 3 years later...
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Fault diagnosed - the main loom under the dash has a short in it - the fault can be eradicated by manipulating the big thick black part of the loom. Has anyone had a similar issue and any idea how to go about fixing it? dash out job?

All sorted?

Jonathan

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Or perhaps curious? Or wanting to understand the fix so he can share and help others (which seems to be a selfless trait Jonathan displays frequently)? I doubt it's boredom as JK seems to have a lot more going on in his life than me as well as a wide range of interests and hobbies (albeit many are above my intelligence level)? Maybe you just shouldn't read them Stu if it's going to wind you up? No need to be disparaging
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