CaterBram Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 So took the plunge this weekend and changed over to Evans Power Cool. Hoping that it will tip the balance between temperature peaking on sprints and fitting an oil cooler. Seemed straight forward enough but surprising how much more coolant comes out with the prep fluid. Drained the system to start off with including the heater (Yes I Know i'm soft) Squeezed 5 litres of prep fluid into the system. Ran up to temperature then drained the prep fluid off into a bucket ready to put back into the bottle. Filled up with Evans Power Cool and took 7 litres to full, never managed that since fitting the engine first time round. Ran up to temperature, no problems , no airlocks, will see how she handles curborough on Tuesday 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted March 30, 2013 Member Share Posted March 30, 2013 I predict no detectable effect. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al7 Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 It sounds as if you were expecting probs Chris!! Alastair 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 Not expecting problems but surprised on how much extra came out compared to the prep fluid which went in. Will see if there is any improvement to the heat transfer on Tuesday and will report back. A normal run at Curb's starting with water at 80 & oil at 90 will see the oil peak at around the 115 mark over the finish line with water around 90. Edited by - CaterBram Jnr on 30 Mar 2013 19:08:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Slotter Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 You get more out because the prep fluid is highly hygroscopic so it ab/adsorbs any water it comes across and brings it out with it when you empty it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted March 30, 2013 Member Share Posted March 30, 2013 How much coolant would be left behind if you just drained? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 Drained the original out as i do normally and just managed to fill an empty 5 litre coolant bottle. did the same when emptying the prep fluid and got just short of 2 litres left after filling the prep fluid bottle. Can only assume that I did not manage to drain it fully first time round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoLimits Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Technically you should see a higher temp on the coolant coming out, but the engine should actually be cooler (as the Power cool takes the heat away more efficiently due to having more contact). However I'm not sure you would actually see these differences on any gauges as the thermostat has its influence also. What you won't see is any pressurization Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 Hi Simon, As i'm trying to reduce peak temperature when the thermostat is fully open i'm hoping for a more efficient heater transfer within the engine, giving an increase coolant exit temperature out of the engine and hopefully a reduction in oil temperature. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Quoting CaterBram Jnr: i'm hoping for a more efficient heater transfer within the engine, giving an increase coolant exit temperature out of the engine and hopefully a reduction in oil temperature. Please report back on your observations on Tuesday. I ran Evans in my previous Zetec engine Caterham and would be interested to hear your results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Forgive my curosity but may I ask what is wrong with 90c water temperature on a Zetec? I am also very surprised that firstly your seeing 115c oil temperature on a 160bhp Zetec and secondly it is rising 25c after a 35/60 second blast 😳 IME, oil drags the water temp up so would be amazed if this affects your oil temperature, but I wish you luck, as unless you try your never know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Fowler Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Very interested to see how you get on. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 sounds to me like the sump level is incorrect to get those temps after 2 mins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Fox Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 It would be interesting to know exactly what the Evans coolant is. It is unusual to claim all sorts of benefits without disclosing what it is you are selling. It makes it difficult for potential users to form a balanced view. For example what is its specific heat capacity? I wonder if it is Ethyl Acetoacetate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MereCat Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Propylene Glycol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MereCat Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 This might be of interest as well.. here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 1, 2013 Member Share Posted April 1, 2013 My guess is propylene glycol + some anticorrosion additives + some wetting agent. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MereCat Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 I would guess its a high percentage of Propylene Glycol with an anti corrosion additives to prevent damage caused by acids created through degradation at elevated temperatures... I would be interested to know results of the test. I think your oil temp might increase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetec Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Just a thought, but a water pump is made to 'move' a certain amount of water. So if you add Gylcol ( which is thicker) the pump must work harder to move the thicker liquid. So reducing flow across the system. Does this make a better heat transfer to the liquid so in effect reducing engine temp & across a high capacity race rad a better transfer there also? So could this be achived using just coolant instead? Would this glycol wear pump bearIngs & shaft seals etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share Posted April 1, 2013 I'll report back after tomorrow and then will be monitoring over the season what my observations are and if I can see any difference. If there is no significant benefit then it looks like an oil cooler will be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MereCat Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 I believe Evans offer an R type coolant which is designed for race engines I.e. is thinner. I would guess that more pressure would be placed on some components like water pump and fans due to way I believe this stuff works..I reckon you would get a more restricted flow through the rad as well. Lets see how she runs tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Fox Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 I don't think it's propylene glycol. According to the info posted by MereCat it's specific heat capacity is around half that of water so wouldn't have the benefits, also it's boiling point and freezing points don't match. Prop glycol is also water soluble so presumably wouldn't require the special flushing procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 It is not Propylene Glycol.That is the safe coolant that is water based. Evans Coolant is not water based I did read somewhere that it is Peg Based from the food industry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racing Snake Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 I could be wrong, just found this and it's enough reason for me to keep away from Evans Coolant. I really don't need higher oil temperatures. Taken from another forum - Evans coolant is 100% propylene glycol...no water added. Cool thing is it doesn't boil until 360F. Thats great when you think about localized boiling around the cylinders causing hotspots with conventional...with Evans there's no way you're going to get hotspots in the combustion chamber that can possibly cause knock. Bad thing is propylene glycol's specific heat isn't all that great. That effectively makes your radiator act like its smaller than it really is. That also means that when your engine makes a fixed amount of heat the Evans coolant temps will rise more than water will. That's all fine and dandy when you remember that it won't boil until 360F...it has plenty of overhead. The bad thing is the fans run more often than they should since the stock computer thinks you're getting hotter than you should be. The other bad thing is your oil temps go up from the extra heat in the block so you need a nice big oil cooler to manage things. Granted Mobil 1 says its good for 400F but I know most road racers shut things down at 300F. Other negatives to the Evans coolant are the cost and the large expansion rate range of the fluid with temperature swings. Plain water with Water Wetter (or a similar surfactant like purple ice or stay cool) keeps temps the lowest. Problem with it is a boiling and freezing protection. Water wetter doesn't do anything significant to the boiling or freezing point of plain water. The best protection for boil over is adding conventional antifreeze but that will increase your actual coolant temps. If you want to increase the boiling point while avoiding antifreeze you need to crank the system pressure as high as possible. The highest pressure cap I could find is the TRD at 1.5 kg/cm2 (21.75 psi) which will raise the boiling point to 262-263F. Of course with the high pressure comes the chance of busting hoses. Water Wetter does contain corrosion inhibitors but they don't hold up for too long. Redline reccomends replenishing or replacing the Water Wetter every 15,000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MereCat Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Carl, There is some sense in the post. Page 4 for what's in it.. If you add water ( or shall I say more water) surely it will behave like antifreeze...or in essence become antifreeze which in itself has some protective qualities albeit not as good as an undiluted system running Evans. I shall go with a 50/50 mix with a wetter having read more on this. here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now