Drumster Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 When driving I have no issues and the temp holds a steady 80 deg, but when in verly slow-moving traffic for long periods the temp steadily rises to over 100/110 deg, I believe that it really shouldn't rise much above 90 deg? AFAIK there are no issues with thermostat or pump, which leads me to think it must be radiator/fan related? The engine is a 2.0l Blacktop with the Caterham Ford aluminium radiator and an 8" Pacet fan which just about fits in between the top and bottom headers. I presume that the fan is not man enough for the job, so what are other Zetec owners running in the way of rads/fans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 1, 2012 Member Share Posted August 1, 2012 I'm sure you've checked this already... but is the fan coming on, and is it blowing air in the right direction? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Fox Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Mine is a Radtec aluminium radiator and electric fan from the same supplier. Raceline water rail, plumbed as they recommend with a drilled thermostat, no heater or bypass pipe work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezky Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Chris, run the same setup as you. Runs @ 80 ish normally, was going sky high in traffic, I set the ecu to switch the fan on at 90deg. It could also be that when there is electrical load the temp gauges reads higher? My car has a little electrical gremlin, probably a dodgy earth somewhere, that causes the temp gauge to read higher when lights on / fan running etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 With a 1.8 zetec I run the standard x/flow radiator and fan, normally when stood in traffic the oil & water tend's to settle around the 90 Degree mark, when driving normally water temp is around the 85 mark and oil just over 100, when really pushing on peaked with the water at 95 and oil at 120. If I leave the fan override switch on then in traffic the water sits around 80 and the oil holds at 90. If I was looking at long high speed touring or track day's then i'd be inclinded to add a thermostat controlled oil cooler to peg the oil temp at 105. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 JK - fan defo coming on. NF - same as you (except the Radtec) Q102 - I have a manual override switch that I generally use to switch the fan on early when I foresee a long delay, but that's not helping. Interesting comment about electrical gremlin though. CB - Ta, already have oil cooler with thermo-sandwich plate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 210 BHP 2.0L Zetec. No heat issues at all. But I have a larger core rad. It's not a Radtec one from what I can see - it's thicker... triple core. This one I think... But, no issues at all. 😬 😬 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Oh, and no oil cooler... The Zetec does seem to like to run 'hot' though. It seems to prefer a slightly higher temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Quoting Jonathan Kay: I'm sure you've checked this already... but is the fan coming on, and is it blowing air in the right direction? JonathanChris - you confirmed the fan runs, but does it move the cold air through the radiator ? If it is blowing the wrong way, you only have to reverse the wires to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 I run a 2.0 stock blacktop with the ford stat housing plumbed in as ford intended, so it is sealed and has a header tank, the bypass works, and i fitted a small polo rad rather than the Caterham ford one (no stock when mine went pop), and it sits at 80-85 when running fast on open roads, and will creep to ~95 stationary. 11" pacet pulls this down to 85 in about 2minutes. I dont think the Raceline rail runs the engine as Ford intended as it doesn't give thermostat controlled bypass, and is at a dead-end in the water system so is slow to react. Can you take the stat out and see if you have enough cooling with out this restriction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 I Have the Raceline thermostat and water rail set-up, and as I say, no problems at all... Not sure that's going to be the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil B Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Hi, 2.0 blacktop, 185hp and a re-cored CovRad unit with an 8" fan. I have the Raceline water rail, drilled T'stat, fan switch in rad, "wet-bulb" temp gauge in back of head and submarine pipe connected to header tank (J Whiting recommendation). After a mapping session at 2 Steves to set up TBs, I noticed that temp in traffic shot up as described and fan was not kicking in until gauge read 100+. This had not happened during 2 years of running on webers. Spoke to Steve G about possible causes and he suggested that idle strategy may be generating high exhaust temps which create local temp spike affecting temp sensed at back of head, but not actually raising coolant temp, hence no fan switch trip. He re-set idle and temps in traffic behave as before, ie at 95 on the gauge fan kicks in and temp comes down. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative bluenose Posted August 2, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted August 2, 2012 Chris As I said to you at CLM on my car(not a Zetec -I know) I had problems with the temperature rising in traffic and by adding another fan the problem has gone away. I think you could do with a slightly bigger fan if one will fit. If the car is cooling OK while moving the radiator is working OK with on the move airflow and the same will happen if the fan can push enough air across the radiator while stationary. Phil Bs experience may be worth pursuing with whoever mapped your car as well. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 Fan blowing air in right direction Fan kicks in just after 80 (thermostat is drilled) Local temp spike seems like investigating further, maybe lagging the primaries as I did on the x/flow would help this? I think I might also try to measure the temp at the top of the rad and around the temp sensor (Raceline water rail) with a laser pyrometer. As the temp continues to rise even when the fan is on I'm beginning to think that I just need to create more air flow through the rad so will either get 2 smaller fans and place side by side or one larger fan. Just need to look at how much air can be moved by either option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 I have one of those laser thermometer jobbies you are welcome to borrow if you don't have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Fowler Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Hi Chris I have a similar issue with my Vauxhall. I have just purchased a new rad from Radtec with a 92 deg fan switch and I have ordered a 82 deg stat. Just waiting for it all to arrive. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative z7 Posted August 2, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted August 2, 2012 Chris, I've got the same radiator you have; fitted with this fan. One other thing to check, if you can, is that the fan is running at its correct speed / rpm, I've also emailed you some not very good pictures of my installation. z7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schnitzel Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 hi Chris, raceline installation, standart radiator and start fan, now problem at all. Last friday was in Heidelberg 36° Florian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Mine appears to run hot but only recently. I don't trust the gauge. I discover when I switch the heater fan on and off the gauge swings fairly wildly. Some sort of earthing issue on mine I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 2, 2012 Member Share Posted August 2, 2012 What is this earthing problem of which you speak? How can switching the fan on cause variation in the gauge reading? How could it be diagnosed? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezky Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 As I said in my post, temp gauge reads higher when under electrical load ie headlights, fan, wipers etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 3, 2012 Member Share Posted August 3, 2012 Do you think that's higher supply voltage, earthing problems or something else? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colindavies56 Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 M25 is it really that simple as to reverse 2 wires around,why would they sell 2 types [suck/blow].thanks for the tip though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 I think you'll find all DC motors rotate in a direction based on the +/- connection, if I remember my electronics engineering right... 😬 😬 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 You may find that raising the idle slightly will help, as the water pump will work better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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