tbird Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Another late comer , I have to say that like Martin I haven't experienced excessive heat in the CSR albeit only a lowly 200, primaries are not wrapped, again like Martin, except stuck in the Frankfurt commute, in warm weather, Cabin temperature wasn't a problem, more concerned about oil and water temp, but no problems in the end. Mine has a flat dash btw Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerwalker Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Mine too does seem to generate a lot of heat through the tunnel side walls, although having only had it since September, it hasn't been too much of an issue. Additional insulation is on the to-do list, so some useful comments above. What is more of an issue (sorry for hijacking the thread slightly) is that compared with my K-Series SV, there does seem to be a higher degree of engine / hot oil smell in the passenger area. SWMBO frequently complains that our clothes "smell of hot engine" having been in the car. It is fitted with a battery master switch and the 4 large cables come through from the engine bay on the top, front of the tunnel ...I am wondering how well sealed the cutout is. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duffield Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hi, Graig it will be most likely metalic blue (Porsche Aqua blue), Normandales will paint it and it will be about 280BHP when finished. To be honest the 2.3 duretec does not need that much doing to it to get it to 260 BHP, The head on them are not CNC machined they are just polished around the valve inlet ports, The block is a standard ranger engine with the pistons rods and shells changed for Cosworth, but supertec pistons will do he job. stronger valve springs and a pair of cams. obviously you need the inlet breathing right but the Cosworth roller barrels are limited. The primaries are aderquate for about 262 BHP. Any more you need larger bore and 4 into 2 into 1.. There is a fair bit of investment to get them past 260. The final thing to get right is the mapping. Having been involved with a number of CSR 260's the ones I have had and other I have been involved in, based lined between 235 - 248. I recommend any owner to spend £400 on a remap. It makes a great improvemnt to drivability and it will get it to around 260BHP, ow it seems there may be some difference in cabin heat temperature. Please can you guys post the years of your cars? I can see if the age has an influence. Thanks Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Roger Mine is definitely not stinky, 😬 presumably your oil breather pipe is connected to catch tank which vents under the car and have you checked oil filler cap is tight, they have been known to vibrate loose Tim Edited by - tbird on 25 Jan 2012 23:48:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Andrew 2005 registered CSR200, Flat Dash, Dry Sump, cat fitted, primaries not lagged no obvious extra bulkhead heatshield, propshaft tunnel cover plate fitted. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Quoting duffield: Now it seems there may be some difference in cabin heat temperature. Please can you guys post the years of your cars? I can see if the age has an influence. My car is very late 2010 but it looks to be 2011 spec (no under hoop) and has the extra diff struts. It is LHD in case that is relevant. I run it with a Cosworth 275 spec and not the 260 spec standard in the UK. As if I could notice any difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Andew, for the purposes of your research Ours is a 2007 registered, CSR260 (which makes 257.4 according to the Two Steves) with a swoopy dash, it has it's primaries wrapped, but it's tunnel cover plate has been removed. It has no heat shielding on the footwells or the xmn tunnel and it's yellow 😬. Be lucky!! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard smith Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Andrew March 2008 registered CSR260 superlight (260.2BHP according to the 2 steve's), Flat Dash, Dry Sump, cat fitted, primaries not lagged, standard heatshielding on footwells, propshaft tunnel cover plate fitted. Carpets and heater fitted. 10,000 miles done in 2011 and so far not stinky and not hot (I use a screen and doors not aero). PS. CC tried to improve aerodynamics with the CSR and I think that's why the tunnel cover plate was fitted. Also note that on my car one CAN access the UJ nipples with the plate still on. Just need to take the leather tunnel cover off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Corner Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Andrew, Sorry, late again 😬 Mine is 2009, primaries not lagged, tunnel insulated, all underside in place includng hoop, swoopy dash and dash tubes get as hot as anything especially in the summer. Not noticeable so much in winter so definitely a function of ambient temperature. I am about 40 mins away for when you need another one to look at. Rik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Martin you might have identified the problem, yours is yellow and cool Mine is yellow and cool Croc's is silver and not cool obviously its yellow cars that are cool 😬 Tim Edited by - tbird on 26 Jan 2012 10:43:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Tim, I knew it wouldn't be long before somebody got all scientific Be lucky!! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Quoting tbird: Martin you might have identified the problem, yours is yellow and cool Mine is yellow and cool Croc's is silver and not cool obviously its yellow cars that are cool 😬 🙆🏻 😔 I want to be cool! Edited by - Croc on 26 Jan 2012 13:14:42 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Duplicate Edited by - Croc on 26 Jan 2012 13:14:17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul jacobs Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Yes but...............mine is silver and cool, but it is a 2006 flat dash with lagged primaries, mind you I have a yellow nose band, which I'm sure helps to keep it cool Edited to say that I think Tim has put his finger on Rogers problem, it is important to take another breather out of the catch tank and vent it out of the car, normally underneath. It's not someting that Caterham actually do, but it will then take any fumes out of the engine compartment. Edited by - Paul Jacobs on 26 Jan 2012 13:23:36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duffield Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Thanks Guys, I see some of you guys have used the two Steves, Defently a good investmant. The original mapping is poor and they do find every horse available. I used them with my last CSR260. Steve Greenald is the only guy I know that has the software. However Steve does know Troy at Northampton Motor Sport and after Steve had mapped my last car I took it to Troy and he did a run on his rollers to see what it produced and the chart was more a less the same. Troy could map them but has to borrow the software from Cosworth. So my last car and this car is a spooky dash, My last car which did get hot in the cock pit was a 2006, fitted with diff struts and swoopy bar under gearbox. It did have tunnel insulation but primaries were not wrapped. Tunnel plate was fitted and it ran at 262BHP after a visit to Track & Road and had done 11,000 miles when I sold it in March 2011. It was Silver with Black nose. The problems I had was the Temperature sensor occasionally got well cooked from the heat and I had to change it. It is directly above the primaries. I had the high rev engine cut which was the alarm vibrating, mounted on rubber bobbins to solve but took some finding. I think the exhaust wrapping is the answer. Can the guys with exhaust wrapp tell me what they have used. Has anybody got a 7" quiet repackable silencer for sale. Thanks guys for the discussion it has been interesting. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard smith Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Hi Andrew, can you explain this abit more please :- "I had the high rev engine cut which was the alarm vibrating, mounted on rubber bobbins to solve but took some finding." I think I have a similar problem. What do you mean by "alarm", and where is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul jacobs Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Yes, I wondered about that, but assumed it was something I know nothing about, which I probably don't The exhaust wrap I used came from a local car accessory shop, the sort that sells tuning goodies, not Halfords! I don't think it is anything special, just ask for wrap, it comes about 3" wide and I fixed it with some stainless steel tie wraps I found at my local builders merchants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Re alarm, I vaguely remember a thread ages ago, which revolved around the immobiliser cutting the engine under high revs, I think the fix was damping the vibration to the immobiliser, can't find thread at the moment. found it Tim Edited by - tbird on 27 Jan 2012 12:35:36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RD Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 All, Question: does anyone know if you can access the UJ grease nipples from above by removing any part of the cockpit. But with a swoopy dash specifically. My CSR has the lower cover plate; and to be complete its got the heat reflection stuff, carpets, and its blue. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duffield Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Sorry Guys, Regarding the high rev level engine cut, it is the immobalizer not alarm, sorry wrong word. It is under the dash on the passangers side. If you look in the engine bay side of the scuttle bulk head, you will see the fixings. It is a common fault, however it took me 12 months to find it. I would be giving it death in 5th at about 5,500 to 6,000 revs and the engine would just cut. I was overtaking a Porsche 911 at well above 100 mph once and it did it along side. Note good on the underpants. The fix is remount the silver control box on small rubber bobbins or some anti vibration mechanism as it reacts to the high frequency vibration from the engine. Hope that helped? Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard smith Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Quoting RD: All, Question: does anyone know if you can access the UJ grease nipples from above by removing any part of the cockpit. But with a swoopy dash specifically. Yes, on my car you can, just lift off the leather tunnel cover. But mine is not swoopy dash. Thanks Tim and Andrew for the info on cut out.I get this 2 or 3 times per track day so will try some rubber mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duffield Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 While we in this good discussion, this CSR I am rebuilding has a ZF LSD diff which I prefer, however it has the usual oil leak from the seal. They can leak oil down the flange splines but this is the seal. I could do this myself but I do not at present have the tooling and have not the time to manufacture it as I am mechanical engineer. The guys I know is Road and Race, this is a particular quiet diff and I do not want to upset the settings and it has only done 12,000 miles. Any comments on specialist companies? Andrew Edited by - duffield on 28 Jan 2012 09:41:23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul jacobs Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Am I being silly to say why not send it back to R&R? Although my ZF came via CC, it was assembled and modified by R&R and is beautifully quiet, although it is an original, but used, Ford one. BTW Andrew, thanks for enlarging on the problem with the immobilizer. I remember the discussion now, but didn't do anything about isolating mine at the time, but will now, whilst it is up on axle stands. I suppose I tend to drive it mostly on torque and don't find a need to rev. much past 5k often, so haven't had that problem. Paul Edited by - Paul Jacobs on 28 Jan 2012 13:14:11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanns Per Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Quoting RD: All, Question: does anyone know if you can access the UJ grease nipples from above by removing any part of the cockpit. But with a swoopy dash specifically. yes you can but I replaced the UJ with a permanent self lubricated one right from the beginning so I forget about it. picture here Rgds Hanns Per Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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