duffield

Hi Is there a CSR or SV owner within a reasonable distance from Daventry Northamptonshire, that would not mind me taking a dimension to postion the rear wings as I am re building a CSR and have had it re skinned so now no fixings holes or riv nuts? Thanks Andrew

Hi I use Comma LSD oil (COML S80W901LS.) in my CSR 260 diff with a ZF plate LSD. The oil is designed particuly for Automotive Limited slip differentials. Price £3.60 a ltr plus VAT . You can order it from most automotive oil suppiers. I get it from NAPS Northampton just round the corner from Cosworth. Hope that helps Andrew

Yes, you can get a brand new crate 2.5 duratec here now. You want more torque? You can buy the engine in Coventry and Simon at Ultermate perfomance can supply steel rods and pistons Andrew

That looks a nice car, My previous CSR 260 was the same colour. I sold it and wanted to buid one myself. In the UK you will not get much change out of £50 sterling for a new one, even if you build it yourself as Caterham would let me have a kit. However there was one the same age as mine on ebay that had been used to drive to spain and back and never really looked after. I went to see it and there was nothing wrong with it structurally and the drive train was fine, had done 14,000 miles. I got it for £18K with 2 sets of wheel and other goodies. I am actually a mechanical engineer so rebuilding it is not a problem, just time. I will soon be looking at the power plant as the car is coming on now. Ford do not do the 2.3 durarec any more and have replaced it with a 2.5 duretec using the same block bored and stroked. I am considering selling my Cosworth 2.3 and building a new 2.5. To be honest it does not take much work the get 260 BHP but torque is much more usefull. Andrew

Hi Croc, Thanks for that, I must say it does look diferent. That looks some machine you have there? I can see you have some type of undertray beneath the tank and maybe something at the sides. Have you any more details on that? Andrew

Well spotted, you will go to the top of the class one day? Andrew

Thanks gents, the advise is good. Sorry I have not replied. Company xmas bash last night. Ok has anybody got a picture of there own? I am rebuilding a CSR 260 back to prestine condition. I have gone to a lot of trouble ensure every part is as new. Powder coating all steelwork and additional items such as fuel tank ect, nickle plating and reskinned. I have even updated the frame to take the third diff mounting. It has been sprayed WRC blue and is looking good, want this to look right and not affect the resale value or ability to sell it. Thanks Andrew So really need to consider this. I also want to put a third brake light

Please can some body measure for me the distance between the reversing Light and Fog light from inner face to inner face on a late csr of sv. Also the underside distance to the bottom of the body, (new body forgot to measure this when stripping, now it is re skinned I want to ensure I get it righ) Thanks it would be appreciated. Andrew Edited by - duffield on 2 Dec 2012 14:48:35

Hi, I mailed last night as soon as you put the items on, requesting details for the roll bar and carbon front wings? Rebiulding Csr 260 Andrew

has the sump got any broken fins and how worn are the fins

The pressure rgulator is outside the tank but all rest inside. Andrew

Sorry, Yes the pump fits in the top of the tank and is inside. Andrew

PAIR OF CSR ALUMINIUM LOWERED FLOORS WITH SUPPORT BRACKETS which have been cleaned up and some strenghtening done by welding. They actully look quite good and I was going to put them back in my CSR but decided on new powder coated. Offers Also have all cockpit internal aluminuim other than back sheet, if any body wants it. If not it is heading for the scrap bin.

PAIR OF CSR BARE WINGS OFF 2006 260 IN GREEN, Usual stone chips but no real damage. Can be suppied with Stainless Guards however they do need a polish. Price £60.00 for the pair of wings. Andrew

Does anybody know where or what car does the CSR 26o fuel pump come from. Andrew

No problem, any body wants to make me an offer thats fine.

I have a pair of lowered Floors taken out of my CSR, The floors are in good condition and I have cleaned them up, so no sealer or paint on them. I had to do a small welding repair to the drivers side but you would not see it now. They come with the support bracket to, so ready to fit. I am open to offers. Andrew

Hi Rob, Thanks, do you know which model VW they are off? Andrew

Yes, understand what you mean by the maintenence, but this car had been serviced by CC just prior to me purchasing it. Not to worried though as the car is stripped and just about to be delivered to Arch. Regarding the enquiry about stripping and reseting the front hubs. Do as follows; 1 Remove the caliper, 2 bolts at the back that bolt into the upright. You do not need to pull the pads, just slide off the disc. 2 Remove the split pin, undo castlated nut, will not be tight. 3 Pull hub and disc off, note the bearing inners will just drop out of the cones so be ready for that. The outer bearing has a spacer and the inner has a small shim between the inner cone and the upright. Just note the order. Inspect the condition of the seal and bearing and look for fretting on the stub axle between it and the inner race, Fretting looks as thow the bearing has rusted but what it is, is the bearing has been moving on the stub axle and has probably lost the correct fit. I make my own as I have an engineering company and I tighten up the tolerance and also use high tensile steel. 4 Clean the old lubricaton out and repack with new or replace the bearings and seals is ness. Do not over grease or throw loads inside. 5 Reassemble and fit the castlated nut. Tighten the nut by hand very lightly until it just nipps the bearings. Do not tighten just nip. These are opposing taper roller bearing and are not designed to be tightened up. revolve the hub whilst doing this. 6 Loosen the nut again and put a socket and extension on it without a wrench. Tighen with your hand rotating the extension until it slips through your hand and you cannot tighten any more. Note no wrench is used. 7 Now undo the nut a 1/4 of a turn until you can get the split pin in. 8 Fit split pin and bend one leg. 9 Re fit the caliper. 10 Refit the wheel, you should just be able to feel a very little play. Andrew

Having removed my front hubs, I find that the seals and bearings are in very poor condition. I am somewhat amazed that there is no rear lip seal configeration or an external cap, just 2 poor design seals that certainly will not keep out serious weather. The grease or lack of it is another concern. I am conserned that I or others could be doing 140MPH and a bearing fails. Gents I would certainly check your front wheel bearings for sufficient lubrication. Has anybody ever done a modification to the front hubs to improve the seal arangements. I am possibly going to see if I can do it myself as I am mechanical engineer and have the design software and an engineering works but I do not want to waist my time re - inventing the wheel. So if anybody has already tackled this problem, then please advise? Andrew Edited by - duffield on 15 Apr 2012 15:56:57

I want to strip the rear calipers down on my CSR for cleaning. Has anybody got any information on the piston and hand brake mechanism inside the cylinder. If so it would be greatly appreciated if you could forward it to me. Thanks Andrew.

I have had two CSR 260's both 2006. The second one was a sound car but had not been kept well, just used for touring and done 14,000 miles, really never looked after. I purchased the car for approx £18K taking into account 2 sets of wheel and other bits. The car is sound mechanicaly but had some panel damage, nothing serious and no accident damage just not loved. I wanted to build a csr, but to buy a CSR 260 was nealy £50K. So this oppurtunity came up. (advertsed on ebay) So I took the decision to strip it and rebuild including mods to the frame, repanel and then a colour I want. The frame of a 2012 has some modifications, The diff mounts now utalise all the diff mounting postion's on the diff casing plus the 2 additional struts that go through the boot floor. I know 3 guys who have lost there diff in road conditions. The petrol tank is slightly higher, but I am not worried about that. The diaganal tubes in the foot well infront of the seat are no longer put in. The loop under the gear box is also not there any more. I understand there are a few more structual modifactions but nothing much. So you see when this is finished it will be practically new with the frame modifications, The engine will be refreshed but only as a matter of my attention to detail. The 260 engine is really not anything extra special. You do not have to do much to the 2.3 duretec to get 260bhp. If you want more then the investment starts. Just get it mapped well. (2 steves) Then I do not have to wory about the diff dropping out or breaking if I am giving it death. Hope that helps. Andrew

Gents, Just got my CSR stripped down ready to go to Arch. I found getting the diff out through the frame was not easy without knocking the frame about. When it comes back from Arch the frame will be like new and with the extra diff mountings as the frame is being up dated from 2006 to 2012. Has anybody got any tips on how to get the diff into the frame easily without damaging the powder coating? Thanks Andrew

Hi, Please can you tell me the Caterham pt no, and I prosume it is with leads, resister and steel cover etc. Andrew

While we in this good discussion, this CSR I am rebuilding has a ZF LSD diff which I prefer, however it has the usual oil leak from the seal. They can leak oil down the flange splines but this is the seal. I could do this myself but I do not at present have the tooling and have not the time to manufacture it as I am mechanical engineer. The guys I know is Road and Race, this is a particular quiet diff and I do not want to upset the settings and it has only done 12,000 miles. Any comments on specialist companies? Andrew Edited by - duffield on 28 Jan 2012 09:41:23