rogerwalker

Thanks for the replies. Got a trailer organised to go and recover the car from Bourton tomorrow night, so not able to take a look at the moment. From the description, I almost certainly do not have the struts, but can not comment on spacers etc. Seems to be a fundamental flaw in the design if the torque alone is able to tear the diff out of the car, but I have seen some evidence that the car was not as well cared for as it might have been so there may be more to discover once I get the car back and up on the stands. Will keep you posted on progress. Roger

Was enjoying a great Blat through the Cotswolds on Saturday, but during a spirited take-off at the end of the day, there was a loud bang from the rear of the car and the diff (LSD) is now sitting on the chassis and I have a small section of the casing that was once one of the top mounting bolt holes as a momento of the event .. Was duly recovered by the AA and have not been able to get under the car yet, however a brief search through TechTalk suggests this is not an unheard of occurrence. Can anyone provide some background? What is it like to swap the diff out on the CSR? Assuming that I have all the pieces, is a repair feasible? There seems to be talk of stiffening rods/bars .... Mine is an 06 plate ... I am assuming these were a later addition? Are they now considered a must have? Roger

I have installed one of these ..... Self-cancelling Module Not cheap, but works a treat. Roger

Thanks ... Looks like a much more robust solution. Time to do a little plumbing. Roger

Doh ... Wasn't looking closely and from the shape of the housing assumed it was the pump. I will take a closer look in the morning, but it is the connection between the water rail (that runs across the top of the primaries), and the aluminium casting on the rear end of the head. R

I have a CSR260 and when giving it the beans the other day, my Blat was brought to an abrupt halt with coolant exiting the engine bay via the bonnet louvres and spraying the windscreen. On closer inspection, the push-fit connection between the water rail and water outlet had come apart to the extent that the two o-rings had blown. The outer of the two was almost completely out of the water outlet pipe. There seems to be very little holding this connection together. The P-clamp that provides the guide to the other end of the rail offers lateral support but no longitudinal retention. Judging by the coolant jetting back into the expansion tank under anything above low revs, the coolant pressure seems to be pushing this joint apart. Finally, the internal surface of the outlet pipe that the rail pushes into seems very uneven/worn, and the fit between the two is far from snug. I have replaced the o-rings and refilled, but already I can see the edge of the outer o-ring after a short run. Am I missing something? Cheers Roger Edited to correct technical numptiness.... Edited by - rogerwalker on 7 Oct 2012 10:38:26

That would be me .... Thanks for the spot - my first. On the way home from the British Super Bikes at Brands Hatch yesterday. Had done most of it on the back roads but was running out of time and had to do the last section on the M25. Roger

Whilst my CSR was back at Dartford recently (having a post sump change oil leak fixed 😔) I asked them to flat-floor it and set it up for road use - to avoid further sump issues! Despite reports of all sorted, it was returned with the steering wheel alignment off by a good 20 deg .... unbelievable! Not even close. Car has since been collected and they have had another go, but I am still not convinced. If I hold the steering wheel straight there is a noticable drift to the left that has to be corrected within a matter of seconds. I need to drive it again when the rain clears to be sure, but I would estimate that it is still out by 5+ degrees. Am I expecting too much? I would expect them to be able to get this bang on. Roger

One Yellow, one Purple ... Leaving Beaconsfield Services in the absolutely p***ing rain ..... Didn't wave .... Didn't want to get the leather of the tintop wet !!! Braver than me .. Conditions were appalling Roger Edited by - rogerwalker on 20 Apr 2012 22:52:59

I can't vouch for the source, but try this .... Linky Roger Edited by - rogerwalker on 21 Mar 2012 21:27:18

Thanks for the prompt and helpful responses guys .... Clearly a little more involved than the sump change I did on my old K series a few years back! Time now appears to be against me as I have it booked in with the Two Steves in a little over a week and Wightblat is fast approaching. Need to get under it today and take a proper look at it. Roger

Not good.. ☹️ .. Hit something lying in the road over the weekend, and the tell-tale oil on the garage floor led me to take a closer look. Sump is a write-off.. 🙆🏻 So ... planning to try and tackle the change myself, but would appreciate any thoughts on the process. Have been through TechTalk and seen a couple of the articles but still not completely clear on the extent to which I need to strip back the adjoining components. Do I need to separate the bell-housing from the Engine block, or can I simply remove the bolts that go through into the sump. Similarly for the Timing cover - do I need to remove ancillaries belt, pulleys and timing cover, or can I get away with just removing the bolts that go through into the Sump. Any hints, tips and things to watch out for would be much appreciated. Roger Edited by - rogerwalker on 16 Mar 2012 15:12:33

My first spot ... thanks. A great day for watching the boys play rugby ... and an even better day for the less than direct journey there and back... Roger

I have fitted a buzzer to mine that has a delay so that for most occasions you do not get the audible warning, but for that odd occasion when you forget to cancel then it builds to a very audible intermitent buzzing. It was designed fitting to a motorbike so a quick google ought to find it.

Mine too does seem to generate a lot of heat through the tunnel side walls, although having only had it since September, it hasn't been too much of an issue. Additional insulation is on the to-do list, so some useful comments above. What is more of an issue (sorry for hijacking the thread slightly) is that compared with my K-Series SV, there does seem to be a higher degree of engine / hot oil smell in the passenger area. SWMBO frequently complains that our clothes "smell of hot engine" having been in the car. It is fitted with a battery master switch and the 4 large cables come through from the engine bay on the top, front of the tunnel ...I am wondering how well sealed the cutout is. Roger