Andy Harris Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Seem to have an electrical problem: Was all set for first start - immobiliser appears to disarm ok (the flashing red light goes out and there's a definite relay click when the proximity key fob works. The manual says the light should go constant red so not sure if this is just a different spec or possibly the problem). With the key turned to ignition on, the heater fan, horns etc work fine but there is no red ignition light and nothing happens when starter button pushed, not even a click. The petrol pump does not prime (and the inertia switch is definitely on). Battery new and fully charged. All fuses checked and ok. Have I just done something silly or may this be an immobiliser issue or some other fundamental electrical component problem? Thanks, Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eccles Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Hi Andy, Just been out to the garage and checked, my light (Sterling imobiliser) goes off too. I also hear the click of a relay or two along with the fuel pump priming (could be a fuel pump relay, cant remember!! ). I would check that you have all the relays plugged in ok although you have probably already done this. Hope you get it sorted soon Ivan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rj52car Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Hmm, we had exactly the same problem 2 weeks ago when we came to 1st start. 1.4 k series. It turns out that the starter button isn't connected to anything and the tacho is faulty so no red ignition light. When we tried starting with position III on the ignition switch it started first time. Can't believe 2 people would have exactly that combination of faults though. Good luck. Hugh and Philip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 I had exactly the same problem on my sigma build a little over four years ago & it proved to be an earth fault. To be fair in the back of the build manual, caterham mentioned that 90% of electrical problems are down to earth faults. Checked the earth connection from the ECU. Initially I had just attached it to one of the screws holding the ECU (the manual didn't mention where to fix it ) in the end after contacting caterham for advice I drilled a hole close to the battery, removed a little paint & bolted the earth wire down securely. It then started first time Good luck. Edited by - Martin Jeffrey on 15 Jan 2012 17:42:55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Harris Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Thanks for the replies. The earths were fine but I disconnected and reconnected all the multiplugs etc and now get an ignition light, fuel pumps and it turns over. It tries to fire but immediately stops. There's plenty of fuel in the tank; I think I'll try again tomorrow as it's getting a bit late (and cold!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 15, 2012 Member Share Posted January 15, 2012 Sounds like progress. Has the battery lost so much charge playing that it can light up the electrics but can't start the engine. What's the voltage drop on cranking? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boss Hogg Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 So you managed to sort out the engine plumbing. Sounds like you're making good progress, mine really struggles to idle, waiting for PBC to sort it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Harris Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Jonathan - Fortunately I have an unused spare battery that was wrongly supplied for my other car so I can use it to jump the CC battery. It's turning over with great vigour-just doesn't quite "catch". Getting an initial puff of exhaust so it seems like at least one cylinder fires but immediately dies. Boss; once I got the bits through that had not come originally like the breather bottle and hoses it was so much easier to figure it out!! Sean at CC is a star. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Have you set the idle screw so the throttle is actually open? That's what got me first time around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Quoting CB: Have you set the idle screw so the throttle is actually open? That's what got me first time around... And me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Harris Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Thanks, will check Idle screw once I get home from work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 When I started my car for the first time it wouldn't idle without some throttle. Actually, from cold, it still won't start without some throttle for 15-20s, once it's caught. Look out for the smoke as it starts to warm up. I.e. do your first start outside! Jez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Doesn't the ECU record the initial throttle point though and use that as a baseline? i.e. if you use the throttle pedal then the ECU is effectively getting the wrong data about the throttle zero point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Hence the, "when it's caught". I'm not sure if it does, but I've always been told to start a fuel-injected engine without throttle. Jez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hughes Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 One of the LADS. needed to put over 15 litres of fuel in the tank before his would run ? Edited by - John Hughes on 16 Jan 2012 19:52:28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Harris Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Thanks everyone. It was the throttle idle setting. It was way out and needed lots of throttle to start it and to keep it going. Have now adjusted it and it starts and idles well. Although the ECU records the initial throttle position, it resets itself if disconnected for 10 seconds or so. Not sure what rpm the Supersport engine should idle at? Plenty of initial smoke and noise - great to hear it for the first time! Only remaining problem is a leaking seal in one of the rear calipers but a new one is on the way. Really appreciate the helpful advice. Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljclark Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 If it's any help, my Sigma 150, hovers between 750 and 950 RPM. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoops Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 same here. Hi Mike any further with the oil temp sender? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljclark Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Quoting Scoops: same here. Hi Mike any further with the oil temp sender? fraid not, hoping someone else HAS done the "mod" Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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