Roger Ford Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Anyone know which part usually wears? I'm assuming it's probably the aluminium part, so I could just buy this rather than this. Anyone tried it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Ditched my splined one for the 7Tips one with ball bearings. Looks/operates so much better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Can't use that for complicated reasons to do with clearance over the stem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Mine has a bit of play - usually put some thick grease on splines before mot then spend 6 months cleaning it off. Not failed an mot yet!! In reality don't really notice the play unless stationery wiggling steering wheel. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 I admit I don't notice it when I'm driving, and it's not failed an MOT, so maybe it's not important, but it would be nice to get rid of it if I can. Suppose the answer is to borrow the steering wheel from a much newer car and see if the play disappears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I think the answer is that they all do that. Play started in mine after about a season, but hasn't appeared to get much worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Roger, if you do buy a replacement, buy the SPA one to weld on. The big difference is that it has a rubber O ring witch tend to take away some of the feel that there is some play on the splines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Just come to think of it, but if you "glue" with a bit of grease a small O ring on top of the stem you would have the same effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I no longer have a quick release wheel but on my previous se7en I took the play out of the s/wheel by using an automatic centre punch on the splines. This effectively spreads each spline and increases the interference fit. It might sound a bit balmy but it does work very well. Be sure to only spread one spline at a time or you could end up not being able to fit the wheel on at all (the guy who taught me this trick did exactly that and had to replace the Shaft ). Be interested to hear how you get on Be lucky!! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 The lifeline ones always have seemed to have excessive play after a short while. The original racetech items seem not to suffer the same. My 2001 racetech one is still fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative skeetsy Posted January 14, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted January 14, 2012 If you are thinking of changing your quick release for an alternative then this one would solve any play issues as it doesn't have any splines.... When they were 7 tips the boss was sold pre welded onto a Caterham top steering column, the web page for Meteor doesn't make it clear if this is still the case, but it's an impressive bit of kit, you don't even need to line the wheel up to put it back on! All the best Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 As I said in the third post, I can't use one of them due to clearance issues. I've looked hard at the Rapfix one, and like the concept (though not the price, which seems to go up every time I look at it). But the shaft is thicker than the standard one, and my Race Technology Dash1 sits very low over the shaft, and I don't think it would work with the Rapfix one unless I pulled the wheel another couple of inches closer to me - which would likely be too close. Also means either buying another shaft, or getting PlaysKool to weld the current one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative skeetsy Posted January 14, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted January 14, 2012 Doh!, that'll teach me for skipping through the thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespeed Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Dear Weeman Yes indeed the added grease tip idea works for a while. My QR wheel improved when I did this. I am interested in your semi permanent solution you offered, but what is an automatic centre punch and where do I get one from? I assume this gives a consistent punch mark when struck. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative skeetsy Posted January 14, 2012 Area Representative Share Posted January 14, 2012 Hi Bluespeed, An automatic centre punch is one that doesn't need to be hit with a hammer, you just push it hard and a spring and latch arrangement gives a consistent mark each time as the force applied is suddenly dropped onto the point. They can be bought in all sorts of tool shops but for starters you might want to try here All the best Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespeed Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Thanks Richard, I will give one of these punches a go on my QR momo wheel location splines, noting what you said and proceed carefully. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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