Roger Ford Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I've subsequently used a 500mA charger on a timeswitch for a couple fo hours a day, with good results. If that was a good way to work, then it would surely be more convenient to include the timeswitch in the charger? What most people want is something that you can plug in and leave indefinitely without worrying about the battery going flat or drying out. OK, it won't deliver 7A into a fully flat battery and charge it in an hour, but I don't need a charger to do that Presumably because you don't have a 7Ah battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted November 22, 2011 Member Share Posted November 22, 2011 Thanks. I'm getting out of my area of knowledge, and wondered whether all of that could be done by a regulated supply with two modes, or whether it required more logic control to do it. I use a couple of these little conditioning chargers on my 7 (PVR25) and my Vespa all the time they are in the garage and they seem to work OK. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Quoting Roger Ford: I've subsequently used a 500mA charger on a timeswitch for a couple fo hours a day, with good results. If that was a good way to work, then it would surely be more convenient to include the timeswitch in the charger? What most people want is something that you can plug in and leave indefinitely without worrying about the battery going flat or drying out. So they buy a battery conditioner. I used the timeswitch because I had it and the 500mA charger was for loose change. I'm not even convinced I needed the charger, I just put it in the circuit for belt and braces. As for inconvenience, hardly. They plug in the wall and you ignore them. OK, it won't deliver 7A into a fully flat battery and charge it in an hour, but I don't need a charger to do that Presumably because you don't have a 7Ah battery? No, because I have jump leads and an alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Quoting Jonathan Kay: Thanks. I'm getting out of my area of knowledge, and wondered whether all of that could be done by a regulated supply with two modes, or whether it required more logic control to do it. I use a couple of these little conditioning chargers on my 7 (PVR25) and my Vespa all the time they are in the garage and they seem to work OK. Jonathan I'm not sure what the circuit design is for the multi-mode charger above. You could do it with a relatively simple voltage comparator, I am sure a chip exists these days to do that but it's a long time since I designed any circuits. The little conditioners you describe are great, they do a great job on intermittently used vehicles. These are very simple indeed, just an SMPS putting out 13.5ish volts @200mA, and when the battery hits a charged voltage the current stops. These are even cheaper than traditional PSUs because they don't need bulky transformers and caps, it's a great bit of technology. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueAndWhiteClassic Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Novice owner... this is the first weekend I've been unable to drive owing to white roads... salt not snow! Contemplating my new CTEK Multi MXS 3.6 and having read many posts I still need to ask - which mode to pick: bike (for small batteries) or car? Thanks! Edited by - BlueAndWhiteClassic on 12 Feb 2012 10:50:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete-B Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I've got a PVR25 and I fitted a battery master switch under the dash, I throw the switch every time I put the car away and find the battery never runs low. The cars been stood now since mid November so just out of interest I connected the optimate and the green light came on within 10 mins. Edited by - Pete-B on 12 Feb 2012 11:31:24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
St Eve Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I have been using a CTEK Multi MXS 3.6 since I bought the car 15 months ago. Banner battery and "car" setting. If the temperature in the garage approaches freezing then I switch it to the snowflake. Car bursts into life at the first touch of the button. 2007 1600K Roadsport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 BlueAndWhiteClassic if you check page two of the manual there is a little chart with suggested settings, if battery is more than 7Ah, suspect yours will be, it seems to recommend the car setting Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueAndWhiteClassic Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Thanks Tim and St Eve Edited by - BlueAndWhiteClassic on 12 Feb 2012 12:51:49 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davidmatthews Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I've added the battery master switch to my new R300 and was told it will stop the battery going flat is this true or will it still run flat if left ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 if its wired Correctly to completely isolate the battery it should disable everything including the immobiliser, which is what drains the battery in around 10 to 14 days, then you should be fine, when mine is up Skye she will often be left for 8 to 12 weeks and always fires up first time, (thats probably the kiss of death for next week when we move back up to Skye for a few weeks ) Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete-B Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 David, As I said previously I've left mine weeks with the master switch on and the batteries been fine. But it's quite easy to wire in a red light on the dash through a fuse to come on so that at least it looks like the immobliser is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davidmatthews Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 O I see Pete the mater switch cuts the immobiliser off too ? That's ok as it will be in the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 But it's quite easy to wire in a red light doesn't that kinda defeat the object, ok it will take longer to flatten the battery but it will still flatten the battery eventually Tim Edited by - tbird on 12 Feb 2012 17:42:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete-B Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Not really, I guess most people garage their cars over winter or when not in use in which case the light wouldn't be used. But if I'm out somewhere and using a public carpark I tend to immobilise the battery with the master switch take the key with me but then switch the dummy immobiliser light on. If that fools the majority it's better than nothing I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 😶🌫️ I had not considered the switch bit but your quite safe as the immobiliser will set as soon as the battery is reconnected to start the car Tim Edited by - tbird on 13 Feb 2012 00:04:07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdC Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I've a quick question about my CTEK MXS-5.0 charger if anyone knows... Is it okay to start the engine with the charger still connected (indeed, is there any benefit)? I flattened the Fireblades battery the other day trying to start it after a few weeks on the charger. I was wondering if keeping it connected might give it a bit more starting juice? Thanks Edited by - AdC on 13 Feb 2012 09:58:14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 no benefit and may stuff the charger, although I doubt it would, charger can supply 5A max, starter motor draws lots more, not sure for a bike engine but I would think more than 100A would be likely, cars certainly can draw anything up to 500A maybe more, so I would hope the CTEK would have a protection circuit that would cope, they do have short cct protection but as there is nothing to gain I wouldn't risk it, if you want to do that sort of thing buy a Booster pack from MMart or similar, or do what I do and keep a spare battery in the garage that you keep charged, more oomph than a booster pack and cheaper 😬 Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 13, 2012 Member Share Posted February 13, 2012 As Tim says: why take the risk of frying the electronics? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPERLIGHT91 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Has the club ever considered a 'bulk-buy' on an Optimate? I cycle my trusty Optimate 3 around the Caterham and several other bikes and cars laid-up over winter. I wouldn't mind investing in a couple more complete with the wall mounting brackets to leave them in one place in the garage. I have fitted battery isolator switches to all laid-up vehicles, so its easy to "isolate and Optimate" as I like to call it. If I could get a good discount I'd invest in 2 or 3 more such chargers and haven't tried the Optimate 4 yet either, for modern motorcycles I can vouch for the fact its all you need, but it might be reassuring to get something with a bit more 'clout' for recovering bigger car batteries such as those monstrous great cells used in the Land Rover and Mercedes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPERLIGHT91 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 On another / related note - Over the years I have installed cut-out switches such as the FIA compliant ones, and the battery-top 'Dis-car-nect' type on various terminals (whichever lends itself to easy access from the battery) on the basis if any one terminal is disconnected, the battery is disconnected. I am a bit concerned now as I have read somewhere it should be the +'ve terminal that isolated and NOT the -'ve one). I must admit it was only in the boat where isolating the -ve terminal still allowed the radio to run - which confused me a bit - but then corrosion in marine environments and fibre-glass body earthing/wiring is unreliable at the best of times). Can anyone confirm it is definately the +ve to isolate in the seven, and if any damage is possible to electronics if a charger is left connected long-term with just the +ve terminal still conntected to the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 It's normal to isolate the positive, but as you say if one terminal is isolated then there's no circuit, so it shouldn't make any difference. Don't quite get how your boat radio managed to run, unless the isolator was some way from the battery and there was a short to earth before the isolator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPERLIGHT91 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Thanks Roger, I think you are right it shouldn't matter and as I wouldn't use the isolator if the engine was running (unless it was an absolute emergency, fire etc) it shoudln't be a problem for the electronics or circuitry at all. Thinking about it, in the case of the boat radio - I recall it ran from and expensive twin- core leisure battery, that had a 2nd set of terminals for keeping things like pre-sets and VHF emergency frequencies alive even if you isolate all other running electrics - so I expect it was a quirk of that. I think I will review which terminal I am isolated on, in all cases this year, for piece of mind, and isolate the +ve in future. As the whole family share one garage, I thought I was being clever isolating all vehicles for them, and fitted optimate jacks to them all. (but this does leave me 4x motorcycles, 6x cars and a boat to check-out and possibly modify again this spring) - no rest for the wicked, my work is never done - but then I do like to tinker anyway, and this is not a problem, when it warms up a bit outside anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnockoff Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 That's not a garage, that's a warehouse!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPERLIGHT91 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I wish it was a warehouse... (it would be easier to work on them in there then, a series of single garages is a bit tight and cold to work in), but I might re-build into something bigger in a couple of years (ideally with a ramp or pit to work underneath them) - but its a bit of a pipe-dream, its one thing having the space and another thing to get planning and funding to build a bespoke garage and workshop. One day though, something to work towards. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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