anti rust protection now its winter

[Fil M]

Dear All,

I am the happy new owner of a 2001 Roadsport and it is very clean. Whilst i love it sparkly clean I see dirty roads with salt cover in the weeks ahead and cannot resist the urge to take her out ... whatever the weather.

 

1. What protection would the factory have given her underneath and :

2. What should i do to keep her petticoats in good order for the future and:

3. Is there anything i should not do (other than not drive !)

 

Thanks

 

Fil M

[charlie_pank]

1. What protection would the factory have given her underneath and :

---

None at all

 

2. What should i do to keep her petticoats in good order for the future and:

---

 

Waxoyl

 

3. Is there anything i should not do (other than not drive !)

---

 

You should rinse the salt off when you get home

 

back here because I want to be.

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

for Waxoyl. Get it squirted everywhere underneath (except the brakes !) .... especially between the side skin and the chassis tubes, as this is where the corrosion starts between aluminium and steel.

 

Welcome to BlatChat ..... several new members posting this week

 

 

Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 18 Nov 2010 14:01:32

[Scoops]

Second ever post and worried about rust 😬

 

Hi welome to the madness

[Ivaan]

Fil,

 

I use mine year round. It's been well Waxoyled, from new.

 

I use a pressure washer ( small Karcher jobby ) to get all the crap off, then put her in the garage with a cheapo dehumidifier going. After about 12hrs she's bone dry.

 

Then I spray the engine bay, grot traps, underside, suspension ect with WD40 and spray grease.

 

This affords some protection, and washes out when next pressure washed.

 

I certainly don't worry about getting it wet, so long as I get rid of the crap/salt and get her dry again reasonably quickly.

 

Mines a 2000 car and the powdercoat is like new.

 

clive

[TomB]

Mine lives in a car port, with no way of easily drying after any hosing down. I prefer to off road it in the winter months and take various bits of it apart!

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Off-road it !!!!! Surely you need a LR Defender for that ??

 

 

[colindavies56]

i used dynax s50 from bilt hamber laboratories,like waxoil but a bit thinner,gets in grot traps better,comes with a long straw with a sprayball type end fitted to it,so as you spray outside footwell traps,it will sure get everware.before i used it on my caterham[new in april],i ordered this when i ordered my car in september,i got 2 bolts out of garage,sprayed one,and left one alone,then left them lying in the kitchen grid all through winter,sink water,wash machine,rain,frost,snow,checked after winter over,one rusty one like new,well chuffed.i plan to give car a coat each year to top it up,also this stuff reheals itself if a stone does chip it,google it and see,good luck.

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Sounds good - cheers for that

 

 

[Bricol]

Mines 10 years old with year round use, and quite a lot of it parked outside at side of road, on garden, on drive etc. Waxoyl and Dinitrol sprayed on all steel parts, using long lance up side of footwells, but paying particular car not to seal the aluminium sides to the lower rails - didn't want to trap water behind/under it and wanted to leave a method of egress for any water. Underneath - ie the aluminium floors, isn;t really a problem - it will oxidise to a certain level and then stay the same. It's the steel bits, the rivets, any crappily inserted rivets etc that need the waxoyl film - film, not mm thick coating.

 

I never rinse off - to me, it seems a real good way to wash salt further into the nooks/crannies and make everything even damper. Come spring/summer, if I remember, it might get powerwashed inside the engine bay maybe . . .I'm worryed about spraying anything else on in-case if dissolves/dilutes/removes the waxoyl protection - so I don't. My much more sensible tin-top (Lancia integrale ) gets treated in the same way - still sound.

 

Caterham still looks fine - when I fitted the lowered floor 2 years ago, I could see chassis type things clearer than usual - and even the hidden bits looked fine. Spots of rust that wipe off now appearing on the front upper chassis cross bar, behind the rad - probably because I didn't spray that one.

 

Currently using it everyday - low enough to look under the fog, heated screen gets rid of the frost, gets covered in water from the floods, and generally damn good fun 😬 Snow/ice not so much fun as snow builds up on the screen and the wiper arc gets smaller and smaller. Plus on-coming traffic throws slush up the sidescreens - where it sticks - so no sideways visibilty. On ice (ie last Monday morning) it will slide a lot earlier than tin-top at either end - but also give you earlier warning if you are listening.

 

Use it and have fun

 

Bri

[Fil M]

Thanks to all of you for this information. Looks like I have a lot of fun to look forward to slithering under the car. Thanks again. Fil M

[colindavies56]

bricol,

nice support vehicle,integrale,wowwwwwwwwwwwwwww

[Crudders]

Second Dynax S50, my 7 is well bathed in it

 

Rally Design are a Bilt Hamber agent so if anyone who frequents any of the three area meets in Kent would like some BH stuff picked up to save on postage, let me know.

 

Cruds

[Michael G]

Previous threads on this subject have mentioned using POR15, but I've no personal experience of it.

A motor cycle enthusiast friend pointed me towards ACF50 which I'm told is in very common use by that fraternity. I've used it for the last 3.5 years on my Defender chassis rear crossmember and some other places. For a 3+year old Defender, I claim the only rust-free rear crossmember in the UK! I'm on my third successive Defender and, using ACF50 on this one, it's the first time I've managed to hold off the rust on this notoriously rusty area.

It's dead easy to apply - I spray it on 2 or 3 times a year - and it's not disgustingly messy like Waxoyl. Consistency is more akin to WD40. So you don't get it all over your trousers and shoes when you climb in and out of my Landy.

Check it out here

I'm planning to give my Roadsport a going over with it when I get it next Spring.

 

One lump or... Seven?

[Fil M]

Dear All ,

I am still checking out this thread... the Dynax s-50 is looking the favourite for me. With the cold weather now here waxoyling could be problematic. ... seems you can brush on Dynax .... do you go so far as injecting it into the frame of the car? I am thinking of the practicality of drilling little holes in all those little tubes? Or will they have been treated before assembly. Or am i going a bit far here?

 

fil M

[DJ.]

I wouldn't drill extra holes as they will weaken the tubes. If you really want to I suppose you could drill out some rivets, spray in and replace them, but I wouldn't bother.

 

By the way after searching for rust treatments (and having problems with waxoyl in the past) I ended up buying Dinitrol 3125 and 3654. Here's a link to the Frost website:

 

Frost

 

Duncan

[RS2000]

So from anyone who has used the Dynax s-50 product, how much do you need for an 'average' application of a 7 do you think?

Thanks

[Dignity]

Hi All,

The manufacturer of Dynax S-50 (Bilt-Hamber) is local to me so I have written them an email requesting a discount for L7C members. So if anyone is thinking of ordering then it may pay to hold on for a day or so 😶‍🌫️

The good news is that I wont have to pay their postage

I will post back on here if and when I get a reply.

Regards.

Dignity

[Fil M]

Thanks DJ and Michael G, Ive had a look at the ACF50 on the web . The seven very much shares a similar environmental experience to enthusiatically owned motorcycles ( close to the ground, exposed to all elements and a performance life) and it appears to fit the bill. I am sure ACF50 would be great for the cycling enthusiasts too!!

From my research of all these products on the net and all your help i have deduced the following.

 

1. Waxoyl is a good product when applied warm. Ideally in good summer weather and sometimes diluted to thin it to help application and penetration.

2. Dinitrol is easier to apply in that it doesnt require being warm to apply at a viscosity that penetrates well.

3. Dynax-50 can be applied by brush or roller or spray and so can be cleaner to apply and easier if you have limited facilities. If you are not spraying into tubes or box sections this has an advantage. There are several professional firms that provide a cleaning and application service if desired for these products.

4. ACF50 can be sprayed on or wiped on. It is unobtrusive but does require a refresh every year. It stops existing corrosion in its tracks and can be applied when the vehicle is damp. Again this product suits application in limited facilities (outside). With no brown or black film you can still see the cars surfaces. It will creep past dodgy rivets and into cracks and corners.

5. Any of the above are very good products when applied well and better than no protection at all.

6. A big factor in choice are the facilities you have available in which to work on your car and the ambient temperature. Thanks again. Fil M

[I reply to every thread]

Waxoyl is a 40 year old product that hasn't moved with the times in terms of functionality/application. It's a bastard to apply particularly at the time of year that you want to and you end up with poor coverage, a skating rink for a drive/garage, stinking of white spirit and not having done a great job. It also smells for ever.

Dinitol & the Dynax are infinitely better products in terms of performance/application.

[JetSepter]

I'm interested in the Dynax for my new car, having checked out their website. From those who've done it, how many of their 750ml aerosol cans are needed to cover the steel bits of the car effectively? I take it that to do the job properly, I have to remove the cockpit linings of a Roadsport?

[JetSepter]

Sorry RS2000 - mea culpa. I must learn to check for and read any second page before I post! Bear with me - I will learn...

[Bricol]

Lot easier to apply any of the products with a proper pressurised pot and lance, not the Heath Robinson Waxoyl affair - viscosity and temperature then have less of an effect on the result.

 

Although you can still create and ice-rink - a lot bigger one, a lot faster, if you point it in the wrong direction 😬

 

Bri

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Like the sound of this stuff

 

Just waiting to hear what deal Mr Dignity can arrange !

 

 

[Dignity]

Hi SM25T, Still no reply so I have just sent another email to a diff. Address.

Rgds

Dignity