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Duratec tweaking at Emerald


AMMO

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Well then you'd better carry a spare inertia switch as well you clumsy git 😬

 

Danny as you well know I'm far too busy slaving away every hour of the day (directing my team of computer geeks) to spend time on my car *tongue*

 

Dave I have no idea whether the alternator works or not, it's sat in a box somewhere in the garage along with all the other bits I've forgotten how to reassemble 😳

 

 

 

R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures

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Just stick a Drenth gearbox if you can fit it in the tunnel

I think Joachim has one in one of his S3 cars. If it's not him, it's one or more of his 7 Mania posse.

 

e.g. diff carrier strengthening

Taking the car to Arch and saying "make that as strong as possible" should do the trick *thumbup* They've seen it all before with the Kumshick cars back in the last century.

 

The difference between todays super-torque motors and the big torque VXs of the past is that you'll all be using sequential boxes. This will introduce problems Arch have never seen before. FWIW, I quite like what Webb did with the back of his tub/diff. Think I'd copy that if I had a huge torque motor and could actually be 🙆🏻'd.

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Talk to Raceline about this 12 months ago and they were suggestion a cradle that bolted to the back of the diff and the rear chassis rails, that should be a straightforward solution without requiring major surgery?

 

 

 

R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures

here

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You only need to strengthen the diff mounts if you have one of the early de dion chassis which were really a live axle chassis with diff mounts added. The high tx tunnel with handbrake are very strong. The only mod arch do is to put a plate between the two upper diff mounts on the Duratec chassis.
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Early chassis has a weakness at the back of the transmission tunnel.

I thought the diff hangers on all chassis failed with big torque.

Kumshick mod is the plates between the top hangers of the diff. The bottom mounts can pull out too and Arch do a brace for them.

Basically, the diff mounts are weak and even if you beef them up, you'll break the tubes around the diff mounts. That's why Arch do a strengthened back panel to add rigidity to this structure.

 

MikeE: I don't get that cradle idea *confused* . . .if it's just in a line between the back of the diff and the flimsy tubes at the back of the car, how the hell will that stop the diff twisting? Maybe if you took diagonals from the back of the diff to something strong, like the back of the floor, or up to the back of the top rail (where the dampers/cage mount), they may actually do something - but I don't think this is a simple job - far from it.

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I have a 1989 "Big Tube" De Dion chassis. I've adopted a "fix it when it breaks" attitude. So far, so good. Because the chassis is made of bigger tubing it may be able to cope with the Duratec better than most. I'm just in the process of replacing my old 230 bhp 2 litre with a slightly upgraded 250 bhp one.

 

If I was fitting a 2.3 I would probably take out the tank and weld in some extra tubes or gussets around the diff mount area.

 

A 400 bhp supercharged 2.3 Duratec with a sensible rev limit would have to have something approaching 300 ft lbs of torque at the point of maximum bhp. If anything will tie a chassis in knots, that will.

 

AMMO

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Dobuy

 

Not neccessarily.

 

I don't like talking about things that are not achievable or to talk about stuff just for the hell of it. The stuff I talk and think about, I want to do.

 

We talked about as 300 bhp for a while. So we did it. More for the crack and to prove the doubters wrong. It's been fun, and will continue to be fun as we develop the 300 bhp engines further. Just because it was fun doesn't mean it wasn't hard work too.

 

Now, no sooner have we got the 300 bhp that was predicted we are talking about 400 bhp all of a sudden. This too is achievable, but let's go into it with our eyes open please. There are going to be some problems that are not going to be that simple to resolve. Transmission, chassis, traction, who the fcuk is going to drive it when its' raining? etc.

 

Superchargers (and turbos)are a way of getting more power. We all agree on that. How you control all that extra power and how you stop it breaking stuff is another matter. Whatever provisions you make to avoid problems the damned thing will turn around and bite you in the 🙆🏻 😬 I can more or less guarantee that such a project will not be without it's bad days when you ask yourself "what the hell was I thinking when I decided to do this?". 😬

 

 

 

AMMO

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by the time the power gets to the diff area I would imagine it doesn't care if it came from a high reving bike engine or 'normal' car engine

 

It will prefer a high revving bike engine as the torque will be lower assuming the same level of power albeit at higher rpm.

 

Home of BDR700

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Whatever provisions you make to avoid problems the damned thing will turn around and bite you in the 🙆🏻 I can more or less guarantee that such a project will not be without it's bad days when you ask yourself "what the hell was I thinking when I decided to do this?".

 

Good to see you're back AMMO *wavey*

 

/regin

 

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The Drenth is rated at 400 Newton Metres so about right for 300 ft lb.

 

I can probably get one for a bit less than the advertised price as I know somebody who buys quite a few of them.

 

Dave

 

If I didn't have a Duratec I would seriously consider a Hayabusa. Do you know anybody who is interested in a 300 bhp, 200 ft lb, 10,000 rpm 2 litre Duratec? I'm itching to build this engine and I'm willing to part fund it.

 

/regin

 

Didn't realise I had been away! 😬 YHM

 

AMMO

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Quote: "It will prefer a high revving bike engine as the torque will be lower assuming the same level of power albeit at higher rpm."

 

*confused*

Surely the torque experienced by the diff will be the same regardless of engine (assuming same gearing and same power).

The gearbox has already done its work exchanging revs for torque.

 

 

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