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Paddle shift


Davey Bee

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I know that we've all played with Pro-shift on the Elite box at the Autosport Show and such like but as anyone got any real experience of using a paddle shift in a Caterham.

Please all but my darling wife! (and she as no idea) as told me about the error of my ways and if I was being sensible I would not own a Caterham

 

TRY 5S

Who needs a Duratec here

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You need to contact Lawrence Hoy.

 

He has a BEC and Stu (the Wizzzard) is building bits for him. LH already has push-button gearchange (off-the-shelf, I understand) and I believe his Friends are working on paddle-shift.

 

I see him every Tuesday at least - I'll get the latest next week (he was changing the engine last Tuesday...)

 

Project Scope-Creep is live...

 

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Edited by - Myles on 17 Jul 2006 19:45:12

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I am running an electronic gearchange mechanism on my BEC (Kliktronic) which is activated by some paddles on my wheel (much easier and more fun to use than prodding buttons). I dare say that this specific model would not be powerful enough for a car engine gearbox though. My paddle mechanism is half home-brew/half cloned from an offtheshelf product.
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Sorry Davey at Longcross yesterday using the paddle shift 😬

 

I have as a few guys have described the Elite 6spd box with PowerTec (Radical)PS1 Power Shifter. This is a pneumatic system and in a different league to the Pro Shift which is basically a sollenoid.

 

I'm still learning to use it really but all I can say is 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬

 

A couple of the sprint guys have tried my car whilst i was still in the set up stages. Their response was "********** awsome" 😬

 

There were a couple of people arround at Longcross who were spectating and can coment on the external impressions but from inside the car it allows the following.

 

Extremely late braking - no heel and toe required (i can't do this anyway) no slotting gears to help braking - very much like F1 just stand on the brakes and pull the trigger whilst fighting the braking with BOTH hands on the wheel.

 

Yesterday I found that due to the scarry parts of Longcross through the snake I was able to come into the apex in say 3rd gear not upsetting the car then change down and punch out in 2nd right in the power band. It changes gear in 0.1 of a second.

 

It deffinately allows me to concentrate on my driving and whilst it probably gains me time it deffinately prevents missed gears or a box of neutrals. In a sprint this is critical as the run would be lost.

 

Above all its just a hoot 😬

 

On a trackday its just in another league 20min without taking your hand off the wheel. You get into a great rythum. Now that I have done it the next guys would be able to install in a very simple manor. I've done all the trial and error install stuff.

 

There are some different driving techniques that i have developed and am still developing to improve the use of the box and shifter but these are best described over the phone.

 

It is still the only car other than the Radicals running the system- call me and become the second only car in the world *tongue* to have the PowerShifter.

 

07919 412109

 

Giving it some Welly.

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Simon - how does your shifter remove the need to heel-and-toe on downchanges? Is this one of the systems that blips the throttle when it senses a downshift? Or do you mean that it is so quick that you can change down the gears really late? I am hoping to test mine on the road this week and am much looking forward to it 😬

 

Edited by - Ferrino on 16 Jul 2006 16:12:36

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No blip of the throtle.

 

You just change down so late that the revs are so much lower the aftermath of not heel and toeing is non descript. I always used to concentrate on the braking and deal with any potential lock up with the standard box but with the shifter changing down so late i have suffered no lock ups as I used to. Car is so settled its unbelievable.

 

Shift takes place in 0.1sec so reves haventd droped much durring the process.

 

I know technically this is not correct but its simply yhe speed of change and the lateness ie using the brakes to stop and not the engine that makes it so smooth.

 

There is no "cheap" system available at present that blips the throtle as this would need another actuator which could theoretically remain jambed open *confused*

 

Edited by - Simon.Rogers on 16 Jul 2006 21:20:53

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There is a vacuum operated sytem available that blips on the downshift. It works via a load cell that senses the down shift pressure in the linkage, tells the vacuum unit which then blips the throttle via a diaphram unit on the throttle. The throttle blip is almost undetectable at higher speeds, more so at lower speed. Its enough to unload the load on the cogs and allow clutchless down changes that are very smooth. You do however need to be on the overrun for it to work well in order for there to be sufficient vacuum in the sytem.
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My guess is the key to this system on a conventional engined car is to reduce the engines inertia to such a level that the speed of the paddle shift can actually provide an advantage in gearchange time.

 

Idealy you need lightweight engine internals, 5.5" or similar clutch and virtually no flywheel. The Bike engined cars can of course do all this out of the box .

 

Dave

 

here is C7 TOP

South Wales AO *thumbup*

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"Idealy you need lightweight engine internals, 5.5" or similar clutch and virtually no flywheel"

 

No Dave, this does not seem to work.

 

Increasing the idle RPM to about 3000 does though!

 

K2RUM - The car of two halves.

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Dave

 

I agree re the inertia. I've already been chatting to Jason re suppliers of a suitable Flywheel. We have been talking about 2.5 kg ish and as I do want to drive it smoothly on the road am also talking of a 4 paddle cintered 7.5 inch clutch.

 

The lower inertia will simply help the gear changes keeping revs up in both directions.

 

However as I've learnt to use the system this is less and less of a problem.

 

The clutch is there to help

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Dave, I don't think the inertia is the issue unless I'm still far of the mark. I can understand that on a BEC all the bits are smaller/lighter but my flywheel and clutch together way less than 5 kilos, I've got (well 'had' may be a better term) cross drilled narrow journals on the crank with half the normal number of counterweights so the crank is 9kgs or 55% the weight of the oem item.

 

Inertia certainly effects the velocity of the dog unloading, which makes for quicker upchanges (particularly if you use a load cell ign cut as I do) but on a downshift the speed of the shift is derived from a close match between the engine speed in the new (lower) gear to the reducing road speed. Low inertia may reduce the damage caused on the dogs when you get it to engage, but it is strain in doing so which causes the missed gears/lockups/potential for dog damage.

 

Whatever, the engine needs to be 'blipped' a la heal & toe to make this work, and that requires an actuator on the throttle or a means of inducing air to the inlet manifold to make the engine rev. This is why the high tickover works, it reduces the differential in engine to road speeds.

 

 

 

K2RUM - The car of two halves.

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