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  1. It moves under it's own power!  Minor coolant leak, handbrake cable needs P-clip moving (again) and the speedo doesn't register anything.  Apart from that it's just the boot cover and mirrors and I can PBC and IVA it.

    The biggest challenge was getting it back off the mobile axle stands.  Once I'd got a jack that could reach up that high I found that I couldn't get the jack close enough because of the stands.  I had to gradually move it onto some lower stands then repeat with a smaller jack until I finally got it onto the floor.  Must have taken an hour at least.

    Unfortunately I'm missing one four point harness.  When I checked the boxes I had assumed that they were both in the one box.  Nope.  Derek is on holiday next week but so am I so no major hassle, I can fit the boot cover and have checked that the harness can be bolted in with the seats fitted albeit with a bit of contortion!  Only issue is that Caterham appear to be out of stock at the moment.  If they don't get any soon I might opt for blue or red ones as they appear to be in stock.

    The speedo will probably just be the sensor too close to the axle.  I'd misread the manual and got it under 1mm clearance.  It does say that you might need to move it out past 1mm to get a reading.  Oh well, back onto some (smaller) axle stands.  The coolant leak is very small so might take a bit of finding but I've got plenty of time.

    It's booked into BookaTrack for the 24th of April for PBC and 310 upgrade.  They will also do the IVA presentation and any remedial work as I'd have to do a 500 mile round trip to pick it to do the work myself and then another 500 mile round trip to drop it off again for the IVA.

    Unless there are any major hiccups with the paperwork or IVA that are worth mentioning that's the end of my abbreviated build blog.

    Hope to be driving it around mid May. 

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    Hi chaps,

    Looking for help and advice with regards sourcing a new or used Rover K series oil pickup pipe. 

    Caterham don't have any in stock and they only sold 3 last year and only 1 the year before. They will consider making more, but they need a minimum of 20 for batch manufacture!? This leaves me in a rather difficult position, as this component is the only item I am having difficulty finding for my brand new engine.

    Any ideas or if anyone has a spare in their garage, I am more than happy to discuss.

    Lastly, this is an early heads up for anyone looking for an EU3 1.6 k series Supersport, my old engine has less than 25,000 miles, it has had regular oil changes, run with Evans waterless coolant and a Laminova oil cooler. It has a 52mm throttle body, vernieers and ECU with ZandF remap. All complete with ECU and blippers. 

    If you are interested email me on richwillbolt@gmail.com

    Many thanks,

     

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    My 2011 sigma starter motor disengages repeatedly. Making a rapid tak,tak, tak sound when trying to start. So i guess its trying to engage but failing, i have tried rocking the car in gear to see if its stuck, but that didnt do it.

    Any pointers gratefully received.

    Simon

     

     

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    paul seymour
    Latest Entry

    Sandra and i would like to say a special huge thankyou to the guys and girls who came down to support us on the sadest day of our lives 10.02.2017.

    Dave & Laura Rothwell,

    Stephen & Helen Long

    Chris wheeler, 7 workshop

    John Valentine

    Craig Harding

    Colin Ford

    Stuart Bond.

    These lovely people some traveling many many miles gave up there time just to be there to support us .

    Although we only had a short moment together sandra and i will never forget your kindness.

    Total respect for you guys and to bring some 7 s too was a lovely tribute.

    Thankyou and our love to you all. 

    Paul & Sandra.xx

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    OK made a school boy error - ordered a new battery came dry and in my eagerness have filled two cells with distilled water. Have i ruined the battery or can i empty it and refill with battery acid?

  2. Glos 7’s Ludlow Loop – 132 miles

    Rendezvous at Toby Inn (A40 Over) GL2 8DE

    A38 to Worcester

    A44/A443 to Great Witley

    B4202/A4117 to Ludlow

    A49/A4113 to Knighton

    B 4355/B4357 to Walton

    A44 to Kington and lunch

    A44 to Leominster

    A480/A438 to Hereford

    B4224/B4221 to Newent

    B4215 to Gloucester and the Rendezvous 

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    Have a sub-loom but unsure about connection point into main loom. One option would appear to be in nearside rear wheel arch (Roadsport 2002) but has anyone any better suggestions?

     

     

  3. hi there

    happy new year!

    ive just bought a carbon fibre dashboard from ultimate carbon. I know it isn't the older style, with the holes between the speedo and rev counter, but at £165 I can't argue with it! Has anyone fitted one and, if so, what have you used the 3 holes for ? I was thinking of relocating my immobiliser light into 1 hole, but not sure what to use the other 2 for. 

    Any ideas, plus any sites to purchase the small LeD lights that fit into the holes would be much appreciated. 

    Thanks

    philip

     

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    2004Academy80
    Latest Entry

    It started out as an Academy car (2004), from the research I've done I gather it only completed 4 races and did approx 1500 miles in it's first 8 years (garaged with little/no use after racing).

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    From 2012 to 2016 it's appearance changed a little.  It again covered approx 1500 miles, it was garaged and never driven in the rain.

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    I bought it in early September as a 40th present to myself.  It was the first I'd seen, but was obviously a very well looked after car.

    First I made sure it had a clean bill of health and would be mechanically sound, so took a trip to the very nice team at www.sevensandclassics.com

    - full service, Cam Belt, pedals adjusted and for my own comfort Caterham Leather seats replaced the Tillets.

    I've made some cosmetic changes, 5.75 lights, clear indicators & repeaters and I fitted an Aero filler cap. 

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    Other than the above I have it booked in with DVA for hotter cams, verniers and modified TB.  I'm replacing the ECU with a Kmaps tuned item, so should be 140bhp from 120bhp which will be more than adequate for now. 

    I'm thoroughly enjoying ownership and the driving experience and who said they weren't practical..... (can't believe I didn't get spotted).

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    More to follow......

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    Ian28
    Latest Entry

    Since today, (lots of) rain has stopped play, it's time to get a few "in-garage" jobs off the list.

    Replace horrible scuttle/bonnet/nosecone foamstrip

    Fit better headlight bulbs

    Fit new half hood 

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    Hi all, I come with a almost-top secret news about Portofino Meeting 2017.

    So the first news is: yes there will be a Portofino 2017, and it will be on September 23rd and 24th.

    As I know that our English guests need to plan their trip to Italy in advance, we opened the pre-registrations to Portofino Meeting 2017.

    What does this "pre-registration" means?
    It means that we're still waiting for confirmations from the hotels and local authorities. But we want to open the registrations in advance in an effort to allow guests coming from abroad to make their plans.
    Who registers now will also have a discounted price, in fact it will be the same price as last year, and can just make a 30% downpayment.
    Who will register later will find a slightly higher price.

    You'll find more info and registration form here:
    http://www.lotus7club.it/en/portofino

    All the usual extra-meeting services/activities are available: extra nights before and after the meeting in the meeting hotel, friday night accomodation, car transportation from (and back to) UK. 

    If you have any questions please write me here on Facebook or at my email address roberto.rizzo@lotus7club.it

  4. I bought the car from Sevens and Classics a year ago, where does the time go!

    Its a Roadsport 140 SV that was purchased as a "winter project" and in need of some work.

    First job was to remove the stickers that covered the dents and scratches and get the nose re sprayed (hand painted red to hide stone chips!)

    Then I started trawling through the for sale section of Blat Chat and purchased the following items, VHPD exhaust, Carbon Aero screen, clear lenses, Carbon indicator pods, lowered floors, new tunnel top and fitted some of them, with the remainder to go on over the dark nights of winter.

    i also purchased a number plate from DVLA, you can choose "R" reg plates for relatively low amounts, so R300 DWJ or R40 ODJ were both £180 and as my aim was to upgrade the engine to R400 spec, I bought the R40 and will grow the car to match the plate!

    The car was sold to me with a rolling road printout showing 153bhp and in the search for more power, I took the car to K Maps and was very pleased with the results, chasing my friends V8 Esprit, he was not able to pull away from me up to err....70mph! though his car looks and sounds superb when your looking into his exhausts with an Aero screen as your only protection.

    i have carried out some simple cosmetic repairs to the car, blistering aluminium has been rubbed down, treated and painted with colour matched aerosol cans ( I will see how that works over time and yes I have read copious comments about it only lasting a month or two, but it has not yet returned and I am 5 months in) 

    I must say, that this car has provided so much fun, I can tinker away in the garage or go out for a Blat around the Chilterns and just clears away the "fog" of a working week in seconds. Great fun

    So that's my 1st year of ownership covered, here comes year 2

    thanks for looking

    David Jones

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    Lightening does strike twice

    I was having to fix the car because while it was with Keith at the Seven Workshop undergoing its MOT, Service and a fix to the ‘A’ frame bolts, the car received a knock - inflicted on it by a driver that did not have the decency to admit his mistake and just drove off. The wing ended up with a gash, split gelcoat and cracks.

    Having had the same problem with the Ginetta G4 about 10 years before (and never being happy with the repair) I discussed it with Keith and decided that the best option was to replace the whole wing rather than look to get it re-sprayed.

    019.JPG.1c355cc88eba6644c4e9be81261af763.JPG

    He arranged for a new wing to be sent to me (once Caterham Cars had one in stock) for me to check the colour match. The mid-1980’s is 30 years ago and that’s 30 years of sunlight and of fading and I was worried that the colour would be off.

    However, I was very happy when it arrived as it was very close.

    Start and preparation

    My instructions were from the Haynes manual 1-0-1. Remove bolts to take off the wing, replacing the wing is the reversal.

    I started by jacking up the car with the trolley jack under the suspension mount (with a rubber block on jack) and added two axel stands under the back axel to support it just in case.

    Next I took the wheel off and noted there were 10 bolts - five each side to remove – and they didn’t look in bad condition although one was a bit rusty – I checked again 12345 up and 54321 down - yes 10 bolts and a couple of bits of electric cable to undo.

    I gave everything a dose of WD-40 and let them soak for a bit while I got the rest of the tools out.

    I’ve got lost in wiring before, so I both photographed and noted down the colours of the electrics in two batches (lights and indicator first and then the reversing light).

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    The first batch of wires was: Red goes into Red; Black goes into Black - which separates into two wires; one Green wire goes into the Blue clip and that exists on the Green and Yellow wire; and finally the other Green wire goes into a bit of a mishmash and exits as a Green.

    For the smaller set for the reversing lights two earth wires just terminate on the Earth screwed on the fitting bolt and the Yellow wire goes into the Blue connector that exits into two Green wires.

    I disconnected them all with confidence.

    The bolts, as suspected, were not the same size as you went round the wing and to get to the top 2 left hand side bolts I had to strip out the carpet from the inside the boot.

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    The wing came off quite easily after I took the bolts off until it was held on the top two.

    Most of the fittings seem to be intact (if a bit loose) although one bolt seat was a bit loose and the boot side had grown a large hole but it had big washers either side if it to grip it.

    I made a note to clean the area underneath the wing too.

    Once off the car I put the wing on the bench and took off the rear lights and reversing light, which was removed from wing quite easily as the screws were not seized.

    The next step was removing the 13 rivets holding the stone guard in place. I had to re-drill holes in the new wing for them too – I suspected that was going to be the most difficult thing - anyway 13 is lucky for some.

    The job started to get harder immediately as the rivets didn't really want to come out. I had to grind off the back, then drill out the front, then drill again from the back on some.

    The drill bit became stuck at one point too.

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    Once free of the wing most of the rivets were still in the stone guard so I then had to use pliers to cut the head off and squeeze them out of the holes.

    Eventually they were all out and the stone guard was clear. I noticed it immediately straightened out a bit where I had been expecting it to remain curved.

    I had made a conscious decision to keep the old stone guard to make sure that the replacement wing on the car didn't look new - and it saved a bit of work as I would have had to have changed both of them anyway to make them match.

    It took about two and a half hours to get down to the component parts and then half an hour to take the rivets out of the stone guard. I stopped at that point and tidied the tools up ahead of part two.

    Part 2 - Re-assembly

    The next day I started to measure up the new wing against the car and immediately noticed that there was a large bolt in the way, which is the location bar for suspension. The old wing had a cut-out to go around it. I also noticed that the holes for the bolts in the new wing are not all in the same place as the holes in the old wing - which was going to be a problem. Finally the profile of the new wing seemed to be a slightly different curvature than the old wing.

    Drilling the holes in the new wing

    Now there was no going back at this point so I just had to get on with it. Having drilled a number of holes in the wing (and expected more to be required) I thought the wing would fit.

    Now, still working on the bench I thought I should fit the stone guard and lights. However the stone guard was very difficult to bend around the curvature of the wing which flexed on the bench. I drilled two holes but then sensibly thought it might be better to fit the wing and then continue to drill holes because the wing when attached to the car would be stable.

    One hour later I’d only managed to put on the two extra bolts on the back curve of the wing by drilling two new holes.

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    One bolt on the front set has pulled out of its fitting (as usual) but that's not bad in the grand scheme of things.

    I tried to undo the bolt for the suspension but it would not release – it looked like the car weight was on it - so rather than dismantle the suspension I accepted that I also had to cut out a grove in the wing to get it fitted.

    That took less time than I had imagined so after a bit of effort the wing was back on.

    To rivet on the stone guard back on I attached it with bolts to take the pressure and the first rivets I put in seemed to take, although they were a bit shallow. I decided to see how it went, but found that the fiberglass seemed thicker in places and therefore I needed deeper rivets. (These I ordered on-line that night.)

    In the meantime I decided to re-assemble the rear lights etc. and consulted my photo and the notes I had made.

    Drilling into the new wing was a bit scary – and it seemed to make a lot of mess. I had remembered to put the wheel back on to level the car up and measured the other side a few time before drilling.

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    Having reassembled everything the lights worked but the indicators seem to be flashing on their own - from the front near-side and rear offside at the same time when I connect the wires. Also the reversing lights don't seem to work and neither did the brake lights.

    As it was getting close to 5 o'clock by this time I decided to pack up for the day and dig out the wiring diagram from the build manual.

    About six hours had passed that day.

    Part three: Re-doing the electrics and finishing the stone guard

    Looking at the instructions from the build manual with the colours for the left side right side units for the break and indicator I tried to match them up and also cleaned the connections.

    I connected the rear lights (red to red) and it seemed to work. Exploring the indicator fault it turned out that the three working indicators flashing incorrectly was due to the fact that the hazard light switch was pressed in. Not sure why or how that happened but I only spotted it as I took the cover off completely to see what was going on.

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    Now for the missing indicator. Striping a bit more wire it was obvious that it was corroded internally so it was not carrying much current - therefore just jamming in the fitting didn't work anymore. So I extended both fittings for the indicators with new wire and soldered on terminals - but the indicators still failed to work. I checked the resistance and I checked the bulb and the bulb was blown so I replaced it. I found a new bulb courtesy of the old 1970s Prime Garages kit (maybe c1980) so I think it will last for a little while I'll buy new one.

    So all systems go: indicators, brake lights and rear lights all working as normal – I even made up a rubber grommet for the hole the wires go through. I could not remember if I’d ever seen the reversing lights work – so I don't know if they ever did function correctly.

    I gave up on the reversing lights and as everything else seems to work - the bulbs are okay but neither were coming on so it lead me to believe it could be the reversing light switch on the gearbox so I'll leave that for another day.

    Now to fully attach the stone guard – the first hole fixing using the 10 mm rivet seems to work fine tough to get on but it hold nicely.

    However some 10 mm rivets still would not bite, especially as the fiberglass seems to be a little thicker - however using stainless steel button head screws (which are virtually indistinguishable so you can't tell them apart) I decided to put a few of those in. In retrospect I wish I’d used those everywhere - it would've been more secure - but let's see what happens when it's on the road.

    So time to finish off – all I needed to do was to glue the carpets back on the boot and tidy up the tools etc. I finished and had tidied away everything by about 12:00 therefore the morning was 3.5 more hours. 

    The Result

    Looking at the two wings again, this time with the new one attached convinced me that I’d taken the right decision.

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    Not convinced enough to do the other rear wing, but it matches and using the old stone guard makes it blend in.

    I’d spent just shy of 10 hours doing it, which I thought was OK in the circumstances. I’d be able to do the next one quicker.

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    Hello!

    My first post...

    My 2017 academy car is due to arrive very shorty and I was wondering if there is another builder that might like to share his/her thoughts on useful consumables? Brand, quantity, source etc...

    I would really like to nail all of this ahead of its arrival allowing maximum hands on time.

    All information greatly appreciated.

    Deets

     

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    Hi all

    Having spent the whole my working life in the construction industry I am contemplating early retirement. I am currently working as a Freelance Quantity Surveyor specializing in Groundworks estimating and contract valuations. The wife & I plan to live off our savings and some rental income. I am only 56 years old, but I have I had just about enough of the construction industry. I would like to hear the thoughts of members who have retired early and what they actually do with all their free time.

    Many  thanks

    John 

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    Recent Entries

    This is one approach to fitting a tool canister in a 7.

    So, firstly I selected a suitable position for locating the tool canister. As there isn't a lot of room under the bonnet on my Supersport I chose to place it on the opposite side to the Apollo tank, as below:

    /sites/default/files/images/users/10017/Canister%20location.jpg

    Next, I needed to make a small bracket to support the front of the canister. This didn't take long as I had some scrap stainless steel 1mm thick plate knocking about (it's a sort of semi-random shape):

    /sites/default/files/images/users/10017/Bracket%20fabrication.jpg

    This plate was then attached using a spare bolt hole in the chassis flange next to the headlamp bracket:

    /sites/default/files/images/users/10017/Bracket%20location.jpg

    The kink in the bracket is needed to bring the main bracket up to the bottom level of the canister mounting plate. I added some self adhesive padding:

    /sites/default/files/images/users/10017/Bracket%20padding.jpg

    The canister was then placed in position and attached using 2 small bolts complete with lock washers. The canister completely covers the bracket. I added 2 tie wraps for a 'belt and braces' approach:

    /sites/default/files/images/users/10017/Canister%20attached.jpg

    Here is the final picture, with the nose re-attached:

    /sites/default/files/images/users/10017/Nose%20refitted.jpg

    Job done! It took about an hour to complete.

    Thanks for checking out this short build-blog.

  5. On 20th of August was the Introduction to Track Days. This event was made possible by Bookatrack-Caterham and Donington Park. I estimate 30 cars made it to the fantastic facility at Bookatrack Caterham where we were greeted by Jonny Leroux, the owner of Bookatrack. A grey day loomed over a shiny new showroom and colourful cars that acted as a stage for three talks about the ins and outs of track days. We were given a mock briefing session, a practical demonstration of car preparation and a few words about the etiquette and attitude trackdayer's should adopt. The highlight of the session was a familiarisation lap of the Donington circuit. The groups of cars were tightly bunched and the speeds were low. But, all the words we had been told rung true as we drove around spotting marshal posts etc and realising that all Caterham's have a special affinity with a race track.  

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    With my wife away visiting her mum in france, i had a weekend free, a bank holiday weekend nontheless. so there was only one thing for it..... book another track day.

    i plumped on Bedford, as although there wasn't much choice its an epic circuit at 3.8 miles long, and really rewarding once you've learnt it enough to start attacking the corners.

    i headed up from Kent on sunday and stayed at the Sharnbrook hotel, a few miles down the road. i invited my brother along to share the day and kept my fingers crossed for a dry day having got caught in a couple of heavy downpours on the way up.

    on the day there was quite a mix of exotica. 6 or 7 caterhams, porsche 911's or various guises, a smattering of racing clio's, elises and a ktm crossbow to name a few. the driving standards were very good, even the M2 and M4 drivers backing off on the straight to let me through.

    all in all a cracking day, and although the track is pretty flat, the sheer size and number of corners make it a great venue. its also one of the safest tracks due to the huge run-off's.

    ive posted a couple of vids, one of me (white gloves) and one of my brother (blue gloves)

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    I am a new owner of Caterham 7-480 (2013)in the US.   I'm driving it as a hobby car on the street and several club visits to Road America per year.  What replacement brake pads have people found to work reliably at the track and functional on the street?    

    As to oil changes, what have people found reliable with some track and street use?   

    Anyone using AMSOIL high performance oil products or have any recommendations ?

    thanks for your time and sharing info.          Lee

      

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    Wheelnut
    Latest Entry

    Does anyone know of a company or individual who can take my car on a trailer or small transporter from Portsmouth to PGM in Sussex?

    Any suggestions are welcome!!

  6. Having stripped the car to nothing more than a tubular chassis the need for attention was evident as car be seen from the photo above. I have been aware that my own 1994 chassis has a lot of the powder coating having failed and allowed rust to degrade the tubes, but seeing this 7 in its naked form brought home the extent of the problem below the skin. 

    So off to Arch with the chassis along with all the other powder coated components including suspension arms, de-dion tube and wing supports. Once there Bruce and Phil Robinson conversed with Andy Rogerson in New Zealand via the great interweb and the spec was agreed. In what seemed like a remarkably short timescale the chassis was ready to collect, and beautiful it looked too! The quality of some of the aluminium skin work is exquisite.

    On the way home I dropped into a local restoration specialist to get a quote for paint - he too was very impressed with the quality of the work - but clearly therefore believed that it must have cost a packet and that he could therefore also make a killing - he quoted £5k for a paint job - plus VAT! Needless to say he did not get a call to book the car in and following a bit of further investigation it became clear that the best place to take it was TSK Autocentre as used by the Caterham factory. Hugely knowledgeable and helpful and a very reasonable price.

    None the less before it went for paint there were a number of holes to drill including:

    • Aero fuel filler screws;
    • Exhaust exit;
    • Rear wing fixings;
    • Windscreen stantions;
    • Heated windscreen wires; and
    • Battery Master Switch.

    Chassis was then delivered to TSK along with the fibreglass panels as they strongly recommend painting these as well to ensure a good paint match. Now have about 3 weeks to prepare the garage and spare parts before the rebuild begins in earnest!

  7. Hi every one

    Unfortunately i walked on my windscreen .*furious*
    I was placing the brooklands and temporary put the windscreen on the ground ....
    I'm just begining to work with the car !!!

    So now i have to change the glass of the windscreen ...
    Does any one knows how to put the new one into the frame ?*teacher*

    I apology for my English( i'am a new French member ) and i hope to improve both  English language and the manadgment of my CATERHAM !!!

    I thank you for our help

    DIDIER

     

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    I thought I would write a small blog of my Seven. I had always wanted one and could never really afford it. I ran a Westfield for a year when I was 30 and loved every second of it. When circumstances forced it to go, I promised myself a Caterham by the time I was 40. That came and went and no Caterham appeared in my garage. 

    I while later, a long while later, my life took some turns. I met my wife. I sold my house. I had some money. I mentioned the Caterham. A car show later and she told me to do it. A day later and I had. I started at what I thought was the best place, and contacted Caterham South. I knew I didn't need much power, I knew I needed to keep my licence. A 270 seemed ideal but as I had neither the skill nor the time a factory build was the option. They told me a six month waiting list. That wasn't ideal so I explained exactly what I wanted and they came up trumps. A Roadsport 125 in the showroom, 9 months old, 2000 miles on it. Deposit paid and it went into the workshop for a full Supersport 140 conversion, LSD and a rear anti roll bar. I added some carbon stripes, a QR steering wheel and 4 point harness.  And waited whilst they did it. 

    It took ages. Weeks. Couple of months actually. But it was less than the 6 months for a new one so all good. 

    The day came to pick it up from Caterham. I worried about the weather. I had seen some pictures but in the flesh it looked great. There was a problem. The brake lights were stuck permanently on. The switch was the culprit. Something maybe to do with moving the pedal box to accommodate my less than long leg length. It took an hour to sort. Above and beyond by James who couldn't have been better and I was on my way. 

    The journey was scary. Motorway most of the way. 2 hours of hot, noisy, intimidating hard work. I was exhausted when I got home. But I had my 7. Finally. 

  8. Today I finished the majority of jobs on the car: It's almost drivable now!

    Started with a box from Caterham with a few missing/replacement parts. First off were the wing mirrors, now attached to the windscreen stanchions. Then fitted the replacement upper steering column bush, and the steering wheel, noticing that the front wings can contact the bodywork...

    A quick call to Derek confirmed that this will be solved when I sort the tracking, phew!

    Then had a quick trip to my old garage to borrow a 41mm socket, and tightened the rear hubs. Not quite an accurate 275Nm, more like FT.

    Then wired up the front lights, and connected the battery leads. Switched on the ignition for the first time and saw the dash light up, brilliant! Tested the lights and to my surprise they all worked perfectly! So moved to the rear, which all went smoothly as well.

    Finally attached the wiper blades after running the motor to park, and put the nose on.

  9. It's that time of year again...

    Here are our July 2016 numbers:

    2005 Roadsport SV / 1.8K / 140bhp / 7,000 road miles / fully comp / self+MrsH / garaged / suburbia / licences since 1989 and 1995 / no points / no convictions / one DVLA-aware medical condition / legal fee cover / no track / Caterham owners since 2012.

    Excesses are total / windscreen replacement / windscreen repair, wherever we got that far on the call.

    COMPANY PRICE EXCESSES NOTES
    Adrian Flux £181.59 (£100 / £75 / £0)  
    Glynwood £228.00    
    A-Plan £230.86 (£150 / £90 / £0) 6,000-9,000 mile bracket
    Peter James £232.65    
    MSM £236.56   7,500 miles. Relies on mirroring 5+ years NCD on MrsH's tintop.
    Classic Line £265.86 (£150) 7,500 miles
    Crosby £278.26 (£250)  
    Lloyd & Whyte £280.41 (£200 / £80) 5,000-10,000 mile bracket

    I've had 10,000 miles for the last two years because Lloyd & Whyte were offering such a bargain price it wasn't worth not taking them up. However, we have been within 7,000 miles for the last couple of years, and L&W's previous underwriter has withdrawn from the market.

    As a result, apparently, their quote was up by £50 this year, from last, despite another claim-free year of experience, whilst their excess got a bit worse. The fact they're now the official "Caterham Insurance Services" broker is, I'm sure, irrelevant.

    A-Plan's price was looking excellent had 7,000 miles not been enough; for a mere £15 more they also offered a dizzying 12,000 miles, so worth a look if that's a factor.

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