Tigger

Thank you Tim

When stripping the head I forgot to take note of which colour oil seals go at which end of the cam shafts. Which end do the brown ones go and which end the black? thanks Tim

I'm just in the throws of doing mine, give me another 6 weeks and I'll enlighten you to what it's cost. Mine is a 1995 chassis and needed a fair bit of work done by arch to make it sound again! It will be a new car once complete. Drop me a PM with your email address. Tim

Nice to meet you today. Tim

Whilst toying with umpteen ideas for the new livery I think I'm starting to settle on one idea...

Double post

Yes please

Thanks for confirming that, it's good to know. Tim

Having seen the very useful referral for rose joints in the Watts Linkage thread I'm just about to order 4 but before going so thought I'd find out what other rose joints I'll need for my imperial chassis re-build. Does anyone gave a useful crib sheet of size and quantity? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160764614154 TIA Tim

It turns out that e pulley diameter is 100mm Tim

Hopefully a simple question... Is the pulley size the same on both purple and gold pumps? The one i currently have on the purple pump is 145mm OD TIA Tim

If anyone has an SLR rollacage cluttering up their garage I'd be happy the relieve them of the burden of storage. Cash awaiting. Tim

I had some limited success with scratch removal kits. The problem is that if the scratch is more than barely visible the process will leave an anomaly in the glass. The scratch may be gone but there might be slight distortion where the scratch has been buffed out. In my case it worked well on a glass bifoldimg door which had been scratched with a scotchbrite pad but when it came to the more serious scratches on the caterham's windscreen I went down the windscreen replacement route with my insurers, £60 later I had a new screen.

That's pretty clear. Thanks Roger. The aesthetic issue is a good one. I may consider having one switch away from the main bank, on the other side of the steering wheel as a result. Incidently what did you do about the warning lights and/or decals. I'm currently looking at some nice aluminium LED ones, but they are quite pricey! Tim

Hi Roger, So getting my head round this... 1 x switch for lights on and off. 1 x switch where the default centre position is dip, flick up is high beam, flick down is flash. Have I got that right? Tim

Thanks Jonathan, So there are basically three switches for the lights. 1 x three position switch - off / on / on - side lights / headlights http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/knurled-ring-toggle-switch-off-on-on-3-position 1 x two position switch - on / on change over - main / dip http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/knurled-ring-toggle-switch-on-on-changeover-double-pole 1 x Momentary switch - on / off spring return - flash. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/knurled-ring-toggle-switch-off-on-spring-return Ooo a wiring diagram... yes please :) Originally I was thinking about going with the billet push buttons but was disuaded as I was told that the relays attached to each switch make wiring a bit of a pig, is this true? Tim

I need a bit of help regarding dashboard switches for my caterham re-build. The car is at the 7 workshop so I'm working from memory which is failing me when it comes to operation and warning lights. Rather than going with the old square switches I'm probably changing to toggles, They're shinier My questions are: Headlights and side lights - Are these controlled by a 3 position switch (off/on/on) or 2 separate (on/off) switches? Main beam - Is this controlled by a separate on/off switch or as a 3rd position on the headlight switch (if the latter then the previous question pretty much answers itself!) Wipers (a little academic as I'm going aero but want to install a switch to allow retro-fit.) Is the wiper motor single speed or 2-speed?

Chassis has gone off to Arch so hopefully on a couple of weeks it'll be time for paint. In the mean time Chris at 7Workshop has his work cut out souring out the abomination which is the wiring loom

..... Duly pondered. NO

Thanks David. Now there's a thought......... Clams..... Let me ponder that for a moment.......

I had a similar problem last years, initially I thought it must be aicv related and swapped the valve with no effect, however the issue was eventually found to be related to the aicv but far more simple to fix. It turned out that there had been some crud build up inside the cam cover just where the small hose connects he cam cover to the aicv. My fix was to remove the rubber hose from the cam cover ( no tools needed) and then with a pipe cleaner ( or in my case a small stick) prod around in the hole to dislodge any crud. Re-fit hose and start engine. Voila! I hope oped something this simple works for you. Tim

Gulf colous driving east Me silver A4 driving west waved and flashed ( the lights that is!) Tim

Thanks to everyone for their replies. Parts requirement now fulfilled Tim

POBC, As part of a major overhaul programme I think I need to replace my existing dry sump pump (bellhousing type). The one I currently have is a purple pump which I understand to be suitable for 1.4 K-series engine but could really do with a gold pump. Looking at the Caterham parts website it doesn't look like these are available any more so would like to find out what the general wisdom is on alternative pumps suitable for a DVA breathed-on 1.8K. Thanks Tim

After musing over the idea for a few months outside forces gave a helping hand in making my mind up. The last time I drove the car I had a bit of an oil leak. Initially I thought this was related to a weak hose connection in the dry sumo system but on closer examination it proved to be a failed crank shaft oil seal. Bugger! So if the engine had to come out anyway my thought was why not use this as the kick-start for the re-build. Anyway, yesterday (3rd July 2015) I did a 250mile round trip to drop the car off at The 7 Workshop. Chris is going to strip the car and then it goes off to Bruce for some sprucing up, before re building it. i have a plan for the colour scheme which is quite exciting. I also have some engine mods planned too and possibly some other stuff It'll be like having a new car, I just have to wait 3 months. Shame it'll be the end of the summer when it's done, but it'll be ready for the start of 2016. The last few days of being a black and orange 'tigger'!