Tigger

Well! My thought is to get the engine sorted at the same time as the re-build, currently the schedule is to be if finished for the beginning of September, so what ever i do I'll make a decision relatively soon. Of course there is always to option to stick in a different power unit which might give a more easily achieved and reliable power output but then this come with a price tag which is likely to be higher than dropping off the engine to Oily. Hmm! Decisions. Tim

Thanks Simon, I've not actually looked at the engine for a couple of years as it's in a different part of the country. I thought it was discributorless, it certainly has the newer cam cover compared to the older 1.8i engine. I'm not so fussed about the porting of the 160 (if hat's what it is!) as I might drop it into oily. Likewise cams, I'll re-use the 633's. Is there any benefit in having an EU3 loom? If the bottom end is no stronger perhaps it's easiest to stick with the original block. Thanks for your reply.

I've now booked the car in for a re-build at 7 Workshop but I have a bit of thinking to do over the engine. The Caterham has a 1.8 drysumped K-series, (distributor type) in it, fitted with piper 633 cams and verniers. On Dave Walker's RR and it topped 152bhp with an Emerald ECU. Now, my quandary is that in my garage I have another K-series engine which came out of an Elise Sport 160 (Mpi distributorless), so a generation or two newer, so for the way ahead would it be best to stick with the existing distributored engine or go with the other Lotus distributorless one (It's not a VVC!) One question first. Did the 160 sport engine have a mildly ported head and/or have stronger pistons or are they still the MPi stock ones? I'm not looking for silly power but maybe something around the 175bhp with something like the current 633's, new MTB's and suitable Emerald map but I suspect a slightly stronger bottom end is prudent. The question is, can I do this with some VVC pistons (assuming the ones in the 160 engine are MPi's) whilst sticking with the existing rods or should it all be looked at holistically and upgrade other areas? The 160 engine also has all the ancillaries for a PRRT. The 160 will also have a later loom but I know that Emerald have a suitable adaptor. Both engines have about 40k miles on them. What is the consensus of opinion regarding the engine route? Thoughts welcome. Regards Tim

OK, having had a good chance to investigate further I've tracked down the cause of the leak...... Crank shaft oil seal So engine out, split the gearbox and replace a cheapie seal...... or take it to a man. On that note, I've been toying with the idea of stripping the car and re-building it and since the engine has to come out it seems an appropriate time to look at the 'opportunity' more seriously! Always a silver lining (albeit with a lighter wallet!) Thanks for the advice and thoughts. Now......, time to browse the accessories catalogues and consider what colour to paint it...... Tim

Catch tank is plastic, a pressure release vent would be easily achievable....... = 'hole'

A photo of the offending fitting....

Hi SM25T, That is looking to be increasingly the most likely suspect. The union is the one which goes from the top of the dry sump to the catch tank and had become rather loose. As it needs to align with the dirction hose, and there is no locking nut as such, can I use plumbers' PTFE tape ore should I get some suitable fibre washer? On other fronts, I popped off the Dizzy and found that there was a bit of oil around the cam shaft seal but it didn't look as though it had popped out, I gave it a tap with a large socket never-the-less. My thoughts also started to consider the issue of pressure. This oil leak happened after my last service where the old oil catch tank was replaced with a new one. In the old tank the hoses were pretty loose in their holes but now in the new tank they're considerably tighter. Could it be that this caused some additional pressure in the system, or doesn't it work like that? Tim

Interesting that the union should be tight. It's rather too early (4:00am) in the morning to fire the car up to see if it's the source of the leak, however oil is coming out when at idle. Tim

Thanks for the replies, you must all be back from nice days out. :) live de-greased and it does seam as though it's coming from the dizzy cap end. There appears to be oil on the bell housing both sides of the oil filler cap. Cam shaft seal on exact side seams ok but haven't popped off the dizzy cap yet. The dry sump is a bell housing without Apollo tank, when looking at the top of he bell housing there is a angle union which goes into the top (between the cap and the dizzy in the photo) this can rotate. Is this normal or shouldn't be tight? i've put the car to bed for thenightso will investigate further tomorrow in daylight. thanks for all the replies. tim 1.8 K with Dizzy No Apollo tank Leaks only when running No oil cooler

Ah! Well spotted that I changed the title...... As I was typing I realise a HGF would have been unlikely as oil and water would need to mix if there was a failure between the oil ways and the gasket. I was hoping that I was quick enough in changing the title that no-one would spot it... Clearly not. It's good to know that you have the same reasoning as me. Without it being a cam seal or cam cover seal failure I'm struggling to think what else on that side if the engine it could be. Tim

What I thought might be a one-off animal looks as though it could be rather more serious. The symptoms.... K-series, belll housing dry sump - Oil escaping from exhaust manifold side. Only while engine is running. Oil runs down the side of the block washing down the alternator bracket and dripping from joint between engine and gearbox. It doesn't appear to be a leaking can seal. There also seems to be oil spray on exhaust headers. It doesn't look like the cam cover seal either. There is no oil/ water contamination So the question is, what is the most likely suspect? Tim

Scratch that thought, I think I have bigger problems.......

The last time I had the car serviced a new oil catch tank was fitted and at a subsequent track day one of the hoses popped out of tend tank and sprayed oil In the engine bay. I notice that the two hose which go into the tank are a tight fit, previously the hoses were a little looser. Could it be that pressure built up in the catch tank and blow out a hose? Or doesn't it work that way! Thoughts welcome. Tim

Woo hoo...! It passed. I needed to trim the fueling -11. The trick, as mentioned above, is a very steady foot and a hot cat. Tim

Reading through the method again (3rd para) am I correct in thinking that lambda closed loop should be ON is only adjusting for the MOT. Para 4 alludes to this! Tim

Thank you, that sounds pretty simple. I'll give it a whirl. Tim

This happens every year but until now my MOT Tester has been very, shall we say 'accommodating', this year emissions are again very high on all measured gasses. The configuration is: Rover K-series 1.8i DVA K13 head with veniers. Emerald mapped by Dave W, the emerald has switchable maps. The MOT ran out several month ago so I don't have the luxury to get the car to Dave W or Dave A. The issue looks like an over fuelling one so can I ask what might be the best method of adjusting the map whilst at the test station next week to get it a pass. I've only ever tinkered with the map so spelling things out In very simple terms will be much appreciated. Many thanks Tim

Saturday afternoon 21/3/15, heading towards forest hill.

When towing my orange 7 to its (my) new home in Dorset I spotted what might have been Mark's (F355) old car heading into town on he A3. I always liked that colour combo. Tim

Driving along in a grubby blue passat, spotted a nice emerald green 7, half doors and aero screen waiting to join the A21 from a side road. A very nice day for it too! Tim

This must have been raised already but can't find it.... Under the main Forum page why doesn't the column for recent post actually reflect the recent post. It seems to select an arbitrary post and then doesn't change.! Just little niggles Tim

Thanks Simon, It's some way off but when the time comes I'll be sure to give you a call.

Thanks Simon, It's some way off but when the time comes I'll be sure to give you a call.

Thanks Grant All very useful stuff, Having typed a good long response on the iPad somehow it vanished before I clicked 'post' ......rats, will type up again this evening.. Tim

Some useful links for later. MOCA2CV Dialing out bump steer - http://www.myothercarsa2cv.co.uk/howto/archive/bumpsteer.doc