Speedtrip
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Little update..... 120 hit in 4th gear at the red line fairly quickly, just needed to hang on a little longer. I didn't have the opportunity to see how she performed beyond 120 in 5th but I suspect the alleged 130 max would take some time to achieve.
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My cars fitted with the full screen so perhaps it's doing well at 110! Im not to sure about engine speed but as it was in top in a 5 speed 'box it must be spinning at around 5500 revs, so still plenty left. In lowers gears I'd say it pulls harder up the rev range, easily hitting the red line if your not careful. I certainly wouldn't say it's all over by 6k. I haven't got any logging gear to be able look at this much closer. The Op originally made references to R300's as well as R400's and I guess mine car would be equivalent to the former.....
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I've fitted LED headlight and side light bulbs. Both make the car a lot more visible when running with them on. It hasn't stopped dingbats from pulling out in front of me though!
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Apologies for high jacking the thread but I find my 180 bhp 360R runs out of steam at around 110mph. It gets there quickly but acceleration really tails off at that point (never seen anymore). Does that sound normal and it's simply down to power verses aerodynamics etc?
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It was......I think it was a case of they couldn't be bothered. Not sure I be using them again!
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Today I took a peak inside the peddle box. The brake and clutch have two possible positions, as does the throttle. So many thanks to the dealer who told me porky-pies...... The brake and clutch where at the furthest position and the throttle the nearest, hence the issue. As sjl1 suggested (many thanks) I've now moved the throttle to the furthest position and the pedals are much better. Still not perfect so still a little more tweaking is in order.
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Thanks for all your responses. I guess I'll have to investigate further by removing the pedal box cover. I suspect there may be some more adjustment in there... It does seem rather strange that that the brake pedal is so much lower than the throttle in such a focused drivers car. The need to buy a new pedal sounds frankly daft!
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My 360R went in for its first service last Friday. Whilst there I asked whether there was any adjustment in the pedal box as th brake is far to low for me to able to heal and toe. There's probably around three inches or so difference. I was advised my car does have any adjustment in the box and I'd need to fit an alternative accelerator peddle. Does that sound correct? Cheers in advance.
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My 360R is the same. Often wondered what the cause is....
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I'm a fairly new owner and have what seems to be leak around the heater. I'm yet to investigate but suspect it needs a good application of silicone. Just sounds like you just need to accept this kind of thing...
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Hi Mark, Mine is a similar story..... First saw and fell in love with the seven in around 1984 when in my late teens. I too requested the brochure and order sheet with no chance of going through with the purchase. My original literature has well and truly gone, but would it be nice to complete an order at those prices today! I bought my 360R last September from CC Gatwick and I'm yet to use it a great deal. Hopefully that will change once spring finally arrives Enjoy, I know I'm going too!
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Thanks John, I'm more interested in an improved exhaust note to be honest. The YouTube video of the 360R racing a Range Rover SVR suggests a nicer tone than in my car. Not sure.....don't want to waste £300! Andy
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Thanks for your response John. Sounds as though it's not a particularly worthwhile modification after all. Perhaps it needs some more thought... Andy
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I'm considering fitting a decat pipe to my 360R as I'd prefer a more roarty exhaust note. Can anyone confirm how much difference it would make? Also would it release anymore ponies, not that the car really needs them? I'm assuming figment is very straight forward by just removing the silencer, springs and loosening the clamps etc. On reassembly should the joints be sealed? Thanks in advance. Andy
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Yes the ribbed section screws on to the main unit, like a big nut. There should be a large rubber "O" ring between the front of the unit and the dash. I know because my factory build was missing the"O" ring and the unit rattled like buggery.
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Running new pads on heavily rusted discs runs the risk of bugering the pads. The harder rust deposits will contaminate the pad material and you could loose contact area, induce extra heat etc..... I'm no expert (son of a old fashioned car mechanic) but I certainly wouldn't take emery cloth to them either. Getting them skimmed is by far the better option if you're not replacing. You may we'll get away with doing the nothing/the minimum, but Is it worth it?
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Assuming the area of disc you're talking about isn't the hub shoulder then the pads will take the form of the disc, which arguably reduces longevity. As heavy rust deposits are harder than the pads it can/will contaminate the pads. Personally I'd change the disc for nice new shiny items.
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Thanks for all the responses... The question of whether to change the oil seems to always drum up differences of opinion. GB story of his experience with his R400D is certainly a good reason to change. Does anyone know whether CC do anything to the 360 Duratec engine which could cause an issue or is it internally stock?
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Thanks Jonathan. A
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Hi, Sorry for another daft-boy question... I'm thinking of dropping the oil and changing the filter in my car now that it's run in. Do I need a CC filter or will a stock Ford item suffice and if so which one should I get?
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I've bought a set of Shure SE 215 noise isolating ear buds with wired phone connectivity so I can listen to music and take calls. They're supposed to have an SNR rating of up to 37db and seem to be effective when compared to normal in ear protection. They're originally intended for use by musicians and alike. I've not had chance to test them in the car but expect them to be okay. https://www.shure.co.uk/products/earphones/se215m-spe
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Thanks all. It sounds like slots might be a good idea, though I can now see it working just by manipulating the cover and missing one or to fasteners. I'll see how it goes before getting the knife out. Thanks again, A
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Hi, Has anyone modified a tonneau cover so that it can be used with the sidescreens when parked up? Obviously with the cover in place you you can't "lock" the screens to the car, so they're likely to blown about in the wind. I've got a two piece carbon vinyl cover and I'm thinking of either putting a couple of slots in the cover so the tabs to reach inside or fitting a couple of dura-dot bases to the outside of the cover. Slots would clearly loose some water tightness but could also allow running with half the cover fitted. The dot bases on the outside would allow the doors to flap around a bit and pull on the cover. Hopefully my question makes sense... Any thoughts or alternative ideas would be greatly appreciated as always.
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Thanks Ian, that's good to know.
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Being a newbie with a 2017 car is this something I need to be aware of or has the issue been resolved? If not could someone please summarise to problem? Thanks in advance, Andy
