TomGaval

Here is an old post that discusses the issue and solution that I consulted with on my system. Hope it helps. Tom here

😬 Tom

I believe it's a 12mm 1.0 thread pitch

So, if I do not drill holes in the frame, then the bushes are welded to the frame above or below the rail and a corresponding hole in the skin will align with the bush??? Sorry, I'm a visual learner. Tom

Ok, Keith, so how do you braze in the bushes without drilling holes? (PS, you once gave me a ride in your yellow r500 at Cadwell Park. I remember vividly my helmet boucning off the seat/rollbar with each violent shift 😬) Between You, Roger and Alex, I had some great laps. Tom

Thanks Guys! 😶‍🌫️ Blatchat is waay better than my old magic eightball! Happy New Year to all! Tom

Thanks guys, Is this the correct part that is used? here Assuming that they restock them of course. Does it get welded in? The ones in Kev's pics I understand. This one I'm not sure of. Tom

I am seriously considering upgrading to a full rollcage and have a question regarding installation. I currently have a tall FIA bar and Petty strut. The Car is a 2000 Superlight with a dedion rear. I just checked and while I do have the bushes for the petty strut on both sides of the car, I do not have the forward bushes that are used on the SLR Type cage with the curved top bars. I assume the Roadsports type cage would fit without any modifications, is that correct? Secondly, are their any benefits to the SLR type cage, i.e, better accessability, etc. Is it possible to mount the SLR type cage without installing the bushes, i.e, just bolting it in? Lastly, how hard is it to have the bushes installed? Tom

Problem solved. 😬 Turns out that the slave cylinder needed to be spaced a bit more to get the pull lenght correct to disengage the clutch. I guess the clutch is wearing down and a little slack had occured. The yellow bush in the bellhousing had also deformed and trimmed that up to give a little more clearance too. I did replace the clutch MC and slave since I had the spares at hand. Will probably do the clutch over the winter. Last two trackdays of the season are this weekend, and we have 5 Caterhams signed up, Weather looks to be clear and chilly. I'll send the contribution to NTL along with my membership renewal. Thanks again all for your support. Tom

Quoting charlie_pank: I recommend replacing the master cylinder and piston and then seeing if you still have a problem before bothering with anything else. I'll bet you £5 to NTL that fixes your problem... Deal! Tom

Thanks Charlie, I plan to replace both the Clutch master and slave cylinders as well and have the parts at hand. I'll try those first, but I think I'll also do the clutch over the winter. Just curious, If the cable is so much cheaper and easier, why are the LHD cars specced with the hydraulic system? Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 11 Nov 2012 20:42:02

Thanks, guys! I have a new clutch kit and CRB on order I'll add the spigot bearing and clutch arm to the order. Good thing is there is only next weekend left in the trackday season. Unfortunately it was to be a 7's gathering with about 5 or 6 of us which is always a fun time baiting the Corvettes, GTR's and Porkers. 😬 Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 11 Nov 2012 18:16:50

Had the car on track yesterday, 2000 superlight, RoverK 1.8L Drysumped Caterham bell housing, Hydraulic clutch and external slave cyl. 6 speed gearbox. Had some trouble getting into first a couple of weeks ago and with a couple of pumps of the clutch pedal, went in and was fine. Third seemed a bit baulky when downshifting and there is a whine when downshifting into fourth. (at least when I'm heading back to pit and not at full throttle so I can hear it) Changed and bled the clutch fluid before yesterdays session, still had a bit of trouble downshifting into third, but was fine otherwise. Then during the third session, had trouble getting down into 5th at the end of the straight. Worked fine for the rest of the session, (6 or so more laps) then while coming into pit, It wouldn't go into gear. Coasted into the gargage, Fluid level is fine, can't see any leaks and Clutch pedal feels normal. Will go into gear with engine off, won't with car running. Original clutch, MC, slave. I built it 12 years ago and never had an issue before. I've done about 20 trackdays this year and about 15 last year. Maybe 50 total in the past 3 years. Any thoughts? Gearbox? weak clutch cover? I did have to use spacers to get the slave to pull enough when I first assembled it. Actually feels about ilke that. As the clutch wears could I need to space it out more to get the proper disengagement? Thanks in advance. Tom Edited by - tomgaval on 11 Nov 2012 16:41:04 Edited by - tomgaval on 11 Nov 2012 18:17:44

Arnie, that is the one I used to replace the original one. Fits and works fine. You do have to use the spacer with it. Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 16 Aug 2012 18:52:26

Tonino, I have a LHD S3 with the K series, but I have the Caterham Bell Tank Dry sump setup. Since the headers and steering is on the left and the gold dry sump pump is on the right side, I had a mounting bracket fabricated to run my Altenator off the front of the engine, with the altentor facing the block, i.e. "running backwards. Works fine. Tom

Thanks guys. Upon further review, I noticed that starter #2 is listed as for those after 2004. Mine car is a 2000. I'll look into the Brise. Tom

Guys, After eleven years I need to replace my Starter motor on my Rover K series. Caterham Parts list 2 different starter options, For my original one, I specced the upgraded starter. It utilized the spacer and mounted on the Threaded bar and with 2 other bolts. Do they both fit? Is their an advantage to one or the other? This is a left hand drive car so the clearance between the headers and steering column is tight. starter 1 starter 2

Croc, you may be faster at times, but you spend waay too much time off track in the grass. I know you enjoy "gardening" and with that truck motor you have you must often forget what you're driving and think your in a pickup truck and start your off track adventures. You do create quite a dust storm when you're "going Fast" 😬 See you on track in a month. Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 22 Feb 2012 20:45:44

First trackday is March 24th so no, but in June/July and August we can see 90F in the shade all day, Then it cools back down in Sept, Oct and Nov.

Thanks, My home tracks run clockwise, with only 2 or 3 left hand turns.

Getting ready for the upcoming trackday season. What is the recommended camber setting for an Superlight with widetrack front for bias ply slicks? Tom

I might just take you up on it. 😬 But you may have to bring your own spanners and torches, because all I have are wrenches and flashlights. Tom

The starter is wrapped with some heat shield material so I can't currently see the threaded rod and nuts. The steering shaft also comes into play on the LHD car, so it is a little tighter than usual in there. I'll cut the shielding away and see what it looks like. Thanks guys. Tom

Doing a year end inspection, I notice that my starter motor appears to be somewhat loose. I remember when i built the car that there is a threaded rod and a couple of nuts that hold it one at the side closest to the block. Left hand Drive Rover K series with dry sump. Is it possible to tighten the two nuts on the threaded bar without removing the exhaust pipes? I remember that the starter went on before the exhaust and that it was fairly tight in there before the exhaust was installed? I have the car up on a lift, so it is possible for me to work from underneath, but I'm just wondering if its better to take the exhaust off to access it better. Thanks in advance for the help. Tom

Mystery solved. I sent an email off to Simon at QED and it seems that the correct filter is the JC50S-160. As for the asymetrical downward tilt of the filter, to quote Simon, "it starts out as the standard JC50S-160 and we Lent (lean)on it to make it fit" Sounds like a proper bodge for a Caterham. 😬 Tom