TomGaval

Thanks Coyoteracer11. I'll follow your advice and put it on the axel stands. Blat Chat is the best. The only thing better would be a Video section that documents all the different service items. 😬 Cheers, Tom

Thanks Chris. I figured that since its on the lift it would be easier to get underneath and its a solid and stable 4 post base to loosen the bolts. I would then put it on the axel stands to take the wheels off. I was just curious if it made any difference in loosening the bolts with the weight still on the shocks. Tom

I've just picked up a second hand Tall Fia roll bar that I plan on swapping with my current FIA bar. I know I have to remove the Shocks to get access to the thin headed bolts that go up into the roll. I plan to loosen the top Socket head bolts first, then loosen the Lower bolts that go into the DeDeion tube. My questions are "Do I have to take the weight off the suspension first in order to Loosen the bolts?" "Does this make it easier to loosen the bolts?" I tried to gently loosen the top bolts but It looks like I'm going to have to use a little more leverage. The reason I'm asking is that I have the car on a storage lift which makes it easier to get at the lower bolts. Once loosened, I plan to lower the car, jack the rear up, place on jack stands, and then remove the rear wheels, remove the shocks and then undo the bolt that goes in above the shock and into the roll bar. Tom

I too finished making a couple seat bottoms, and both turned out well. On the second one I wanted to fill in a smal gap on one side and used a can of insulation foam to add the extra material and then an serated knife to shape it. I left the plastic vacuum bag on as it was pretty well bonded to the epoxy and beads. I bought some nomex cloth to cover them. (Rodger, you were correct, the quart was enough for the two seat bottoms, with some left over) Thanks Tom

I found that I had to use some washers to lengthen the pull on my slave cylinder to get the clutch to work properly. tom

If you are referring to the external blue one, then it's pretty much the same as with brakes, Pump the pedal, loosen the fitting and hold the pedal down, tighten the fitting and repeat until all the air is out and the pedal is firm. Just be sure to keep the fluid in the clutch master cylinder full. Tom

I had a very similar problem. A new battery cured it. Tom

Thanks Mav, I'll start compiling a short list now. Tom

I had a similar problem, turns out the battery was the culprit. Changed over to a new one and issue was resovled. Tom

As a K owner in the states, if you are willing to box and post them to me I too would order 10 at that price. (mav we met at Stoneleigh in 2001 and you let me sit in your new then SV) Tom

Please pardon my slight thread hijack. Skydragon, could you tell me which rollcage that is in the first picture of your car. The one with the curved hoops and windscreen on? I have a 2000 dedion superlight and wonder if that would fit my car. Sorry Guys, Thanks Back on topic, I used the rustoleum method to repaint my repaired rear wing and It looks fine. Just takes a little time and effort. My local hardware store matched my paint colour nicely. Tom

I have the MB wheels on my superlight and had been running the Avon CR500's. I just switched to a set of the Toyo R888's and the first thing I noticed is how much heavier they seemed when I put them on. Tom

Thanks Roger. Edited by - TomGaval on 20 Oct 2009 23:05:31

I'd like to make just a seat bottom for my 7, as I need to sit lower than the standard seat bottom allows. I've found the beads and bags locally, but I'm wondering how much resin I need to purchase for just the seat bottom. Would a quart be enough? Also as for the Epoxy Resin, is this the same stuff that is used makin fiberglass repairs? Thanks Tom

Jon, just sent you an email. Need your email address as I couldn't attach the pics on Blatmail. Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 17 Sep 2009 22:02:05

Jon, let me look thru my build file. If not I'll take some new ones and get them out to you. Tom

I have a Dry sumped K with the Caterham dry sump tank and a Hydraulic clutch. I had to make a clevis to attach the slave cylinder to the clutch arm. I also had to use a bunch of fender washers as spacers to get the slave cylinder back far enough to pull the clutch arm. Tom

Brad, I've had plenty of experience with the nylon bolts, They break off easily and if by chance a piece is left in the hole you can easily grab a piece of it and twist it out. If it breaks off flush, use a large diameter needle to turn it until enough sticks out to get a hold of. Tom (yellowss7)

Thanks! Tom

I'm finally getting around to fitting the boot cover and have a question. I have six point harnesses and the Fia roll bar. After I fit the duradot fastensers to the cover, I'll need to unbolt the harnesses to attach the front edge of the cover. Do I fit it so that the whole harness and bolts sit on top of the boot cover, or should only the bolt show, with the upper harness under the boot cover? Any pics would be helpful. Thanks Tom

Slight hijack. One of my Headlights is somewhat loose and keeps nodding off. It droops forward. I've tried tighening the nut underneath but that doesn't seem to do the job. Is there a way to get the light firmly tighened? Edit: Clams as well Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 17 May 2009 21:11:04

Cagey, haven't seen that size listed on any of the US sites. 13 inch tyre size is very limited over here. I guess there aren't many pickup trucks or SUV's wearing 13's. 😬 Tom

Thanks Jingers. I installed the obligatory Sigma1200 bike speedo, so I can always reprogram it for the tire size. Looks like the 205/60/13 will suffice. I was just wondering if the wider size would be of any benefit. Surprisingly, the 225/45/13 is available here, we usually don't get the good selection of 13 inch sizes. it's recommended rim size is 8-8.5 which is what my MB rears are, but I've read the threads where it suggest that fitting the 205 on an 8.5 is not a problem. Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 7 Feb 2009 21:56:34

I'm thinking of replacing my Cr500's with the Toyo R888. I currently run the CR500's 175/55/13 on the fronts and 205/55/13 on the rears. The Toyo's come in 185/55/13 for the front. And two different sizes for the rear. 205/60/13 or 225/45/13. What size would be the best for the rear selection? Thanks Tom

Dave, I have the Jenvey's and their fuel rail on my 1.8l. I have the shorter 330 Pico injectors. I believe that they are necessary to fit with that fuel rail. Tom