TomGaval

I've been driving my 195hp K series with the 6 speed now for 14 years and obviously have gotten very use to it. I drove and a 309hp duratec with a Sadev gearbox this weekend and felt like a complete numpty trying to get it to move. I stalled it 5 times before it moved and then Kangarooed any time I lifted the throttle pedal. Not a good feeling. On track, it screams like a banshee, (even though I'm sure I never pressed the throttle passed half way. *eek* I thought my VHPD K was quick, this is like going to warp speed. I was told that it has a race clutch and lightweight flywheel, and even giving it more throttle it wouldn't roll, if I didn't let the clutch out verrrrry slowly. So my first question is, does the kangarooing result from the throttle, or the TPS, or something else? ( poor technique)??? My second question is, is there any need to use the clutch for upshifts or downshifts? Does it hurt the drive train, or gearbox/clutch if I don't? It does have the flat shift and blipping downshift programming installed. Tom

Thanks, I'll pass the info along. Let me know if the syncro's are the issue. Tom

I have the Ap 4pots up front and the standard calipers on the rear. Mintex 1144 up front with the blue dot regular pads on the rear. Works really well IMO. Tom

Any resolution to this problem? A new r400 owner over here has a very similar issue with his new 6 speed. Just wondering if the OP has found or resolved the issue. Thanks. Tom

Had a very similar issue. Pressurized coolant, no mayo, no white smoke, water temps stayed normal. Oily guessed breached fire ring. Pulled head, did the peening, skim and new dowls, head bolts and gasket. All good now. Good luck. Tom

Just to close out the thread, I took the Caterham out for a couple of trackdays, on Friday and Saturday. Pleased to report that the head gasket replacement seems to have resolved the issue. Car ran great, no problems with the coolant level, and temp stayed rock steady. Only down side was that the Alternator crapped out and wasn't charging the battery. Oh Well, I sense a new thread coming on. Thanks again to everyone for all your support. And Oily was Right again. Tom

Thanks Rodger. I do have them as they came with my new purchase. After watching the video, with and without the hans device. I'm now anxious to get things right so that I can use it on my next trackday next week. After all these years, I still am in awe of the laps on Cadwell you took me on. Not that Keith and Alex were slouches either. *eek* I still aspire to drive like you guys. Tom

Thanks guys. My regular mechanic was concerned about the plate option and has been hesitant to make one up for me. A somewhat local Caterham dealer said that he could do the relocating with the tapped bung welded in. I'm 6'1 and it's an S3 chassis, with the standard cloth seats, that I removed the bottom from and formed a custom bead seat to get me a little lower to clear the roll bar, now a full cage. I've done the calculation per HANS instructions and come up with a 3 inch bolt spacing. I'll definitely sit in the car and make sure the strap angle to the mounting point is per spec. I just wanted to make sure the process of drilling the chassis rail, installing the bung, welding and tapping it was the correct way. Tom

Recently purchased a new HANS device, and looking at the instruction, it appears that the mounting points should be about 3 inches apart. I've read that Arch does the job, but popping over to do it is a bit of a bother from this side of the pond. 😬 Is it as simple as drilling the appropriate size hole in the rail, inserting a bung an TIG welding it in and then tapping it? Am I missing Anything in that assumption? Thx Tom

Thanks Bob and Dr. Slotter. Will give it a go. Tom

Thank Mankee. I must have been brain dead last night. So my question still remains, do I need to use the program on the ECU to reset the TPS if needed? Or is there a way to do it manually? Tom

As previously reported, I had a head gasket issue with my Rover K. Built by QED in 2000, I was surprised to find that it still had the plastic dowels. Head is back on but my mechanic said that it's possible the Jenvey TBs may need to be rebalanced? I've read Oily's instructions on how to do it, but my question is, if I need to adjust the TPS, do I need to do it thru the ECU software? As my DTA E48 ECU is now 14 years old, I found that the software is no longer on the DTAfast website. Is there a way to adjust the TPS manually? Or am I an inclined plane wrapped helically around an axis? 😬 Does anyone happen to have a copy of the software by any chance? Thanks Tom

Oily was right again. Pulled the head and could not see any evidence of a gasket failure. Oily said that they are not always easy to identify. Sent the head off to the machine shop and they confirmed that it was slightly off at cylinder #2. Peened and skimmed. Liner height is good, no liner cracks. Going back on today with new head gasket and bolts from Oily. Thanks again Dave for the support. Drilling a hole in the thermostat. Decided not to do the remote stat change at this time. Hopefully it will run great for another 13 years. Thanks to all for your help. Tech Talk knowledge is really amazing. Cheers. Tom

I ordered my car in 2000 to come with the wide track and clams. So yes It can be done. tom

Sent.

Terry, I have one. BM me your email address and I'll send it to you. Tom

Well, that may be true, but at least when I'm on track, I'm not picking up daisies like you did on one of your offs in this video 😬 and if you look hard starting at the 2:05 mark on your video, you will see me in the yellow car very slightly put a couple of wheels off where as you go the other way and start mowing the grass on the left side of the track. *wavey* Tom

Boy am I glad I asked. 😬 Thanks again guys. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I mover ahead with the project. I'm still a bit confused about the Dry sump internal vs external option. Raceline internal vs SBD external. Do they both meet the oil supply needs of a 250+ hp motor? Tom

Thanks Rob. While I'm looking for a nice power level to play with the big hp cars on the straights, I don't want to be rebuilding the motor every season. As for the bellhousing options, Did you say they Both require a shortening of the input shaft or just the Compact/narrower one??? Just trying to learn as much as I can before I jump in. It might be actually cheaper to Sell my car as is and to buy a used R500 that's already set up and use my bargain motor as a spare. Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 9 Jan 2014 19:22:39

Thanks guys. Those are all excellent suggestions, your first hand experience is what I was looking for. Any input on the slipper Piston question? Are they worth the extra expense, are they more or less reliable/durable? Anyone use the SBD kit for their project? Tom

I don't want to add the extra work of shortening the passenger side footwell if I don't have to. So in that case, which bellhousing is the correct one to use, does it require the changing of the input shaft and what size flywheel and clutch does it use? *confused* Thanks Tom

I recently purchased a New Ford 2.0L Duratec engine at a great price that I thought would be the basis of a nicely tuned replacement for my 195bhp Rover K series. After adding up the cost of all the parts necessary to make the change over from the RoverK to the Duratec, my bargain has certainly turned into an expensive project. I know the topic has been done before and I have trolled the archives. Looking at the current Duratec tuning companies over there, I’m looking at the Raceline, the SBD and Premier Power sites to try to figure out which Package of components will be the best to make the build and install the least traumatic. I currently track my car about 20 times a season, so I am looking for reliability and enough power to hang with the GT3RS’s and Corvettes down the straights. I guess I’m looking at the 250 to 280 hp range, and I will probably buy a package that includes the ECU, harness, Pistons, Rods, etc. that work together. I noticed that on the SBD site it has an option for a slipper piston and rod combo, are they more reliable or less than standard forged pistons and rods? Are they worth the 50% premium in cost? I also noticed that SBD recommends the Titan external dry sump Pump vs the Raceline and Cosworth Internal pump design, any significant difference? Any thoughts on the Induction option? SBD has their own TB set up, I currently have Jenvey’s on my RoverK and they have been good. Raceline seems to use the Jenvey’s, so any difference? Lastly the bellhousing options. I have the Caterham 6 speed currently mated to the Caterham Internal Dry Sump bell housing, going to the Duratec, the options are for the Compact version or the standard version. Do they both work? Will the standard one be ok for an S3 chassis? Any and all comments are welcome. Thanks in advance. Tom

It's on the to do list. Thanks Ian.

Well, I had the car out on track this weekend, running both Saturday and Sunday. Prior to going I bled the system and replaced the expansion tank cap. No issues Saturday, No issue on Sunday until I came in on the last session of the day. Car was running great all day, I kept an eye on the temp gauge on every straight on every lap and it was steady and never went past 80. In fact under speed with the airflow it stayed around 65. When I was pulling into the paddock I noticed a misting on my brooklands. When I pulled the bonnet and nosecone, I could see that the expansion tank was now full and that some of the coolant had splashed out. So, More confused than ever. How does it run for almost 2 days with no issues and then puke? I was pushing really hard the last session as I tried to stay ahead of a GTR, with 850hp, but I can't say that I was just crusing all the other sessions. Done for the season, and I am pulling the engine to change the clutch, so does any one have a step by step instruction or video of how to change the head gasket on a K Series? There aren't many if any over here, so This will be new territory for my mechanic who specializes in BMWs. He's a racer and good wrench, and has maintained my car for the past 5 years or so, but nothing with this Motor. Also what parts do I need to order in addition to the gasket? Head bolts, dowls, etc. This motor was built by QED in 2000 and has been great, being a trackday car pretty much since I assembled it. So it has spent most of it's time in the 6000 to 7000 range as I've tried to use 7k as the max rev limit just to be gentle on it. 😬 Thanks again for the help. Blatchat is the best! Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 18 Nov 2013 14:30:14

Got your email, have sent you a reply with my address. Thanks