TomGaval

Reporting back with the results of my change over from Evans coolant to a Distilled Water and Redline Water Wetter mixture . I drained the Evans coolant and did a very thorough flush to ensure that all if it was removed, then filled with Distilled Water and the recommended Water Wetter amount and bled the system well. We had our annual Se7ens Track day weekend at our Local track with 20 Se7ens running in our own run group. The Car ran well for the 20 minute sessions each day, with the water temp a steady 195F at speed and the Oil temp a steady 210-212F running hard for the 20 minute sessions. When returning to the paddock after the checkered flag at the end of the session, temps would drop to 185F and 200F respectively. The only time the water temp crept up to 200F was when Idling on Pit Lane after a black flag incident that pulled all the cars in while removing a vehicle off track. I may look into making a shroud for the radiator/fan to get better airflow thru the radiator when idling. Ambient air temp was about 10F cooler than during the sessions before when running Evans coolant, so not exactly an exactly scientific experiment. But I'm going to call it a success anyway. Coolant level stayed constant and no puking so I am optimistic that my issue has finally been resolved. It was good to be able to finally be able to run hard a full session and not fixate on the gauges constantly. Thanks again for your help and support. Tom

I used the Cosworth recommended ARP studs and Nuts and made sure they were torqued to the proper setting following the instructions from SBD. Steve also provide a new and improved head gasket that he says is the latest and best one to use. So hopefully, those improvements along with a conservative tune will have finally resolved the issue once and for all. I'll drain out the Evans coolant and try running just water and water wetter next weekend. What Water and Oil temp would you guys recommend as normal running levels and max high levels for Track day conditions? Tom

Jonathan, it appears that Red Line says that you can use tap water as the Water Wetter does contain an anti scaling ingredients but using Distilled water or Deionized water will accomplish some scale removal in the cylinder head area. Whatever the hell that means.

Thanks again guys, I just read a Red line Water Wetter report that confirms that Water or Water plus Water Wetter provides significant cooling over even a standard 50/50 mix. www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf So I might just try the Distilled water and Water Wetter for the next track weekend which will feature our own run group of 20 plus Se7ens. That will take place on July 2nd and 3rd. So I'll report back after that event. Tom

Yes John, Although I tried to rule out everything else before I Pulled the head, I've got to admit that the pressurization issue was most likely due to the head gasket failing as it did show evidence of a breach. I was thinking of draining out the Evans Coolant and going back to a standard 50/50 water/coolant mix to see if that would reduce the temps as you indicated. After all that I spent, what's another $100 I originally tried the Evans as it touted a higher boiling point and lack of pressurization, as I was trying to prevent that pressurization and puking and was still in denial on the head gasket. What's your thought on going to a 19 row oil cooler vs the 9 row one that's currently on the car? The 9 row one is 3 inches high and the 19 row one is 5.75 inches high so obviously it will block a larger area of the radiator, possibly reducing the cooling capacity further.

Yes it does.

Still using the Evans coolant. Air temp this weekend was around 90-92F. Last year air temps ranged from 60F to 95F. I didn't see any varience due to the Air Temp as far as I remember. Just took longer to heat up at the cooler temperature. I was hoping for a temp of around 195F or 90C or so. My 195hp RoverK runs a solid 80C all the time. I know this Duratec at 310 or so bhp is slightly more tuned so may run a tad warmer. This weekend, the coolant temps came up to 200F while i was running at 2000 RPM in first gear in the Paddock before my session began. So the water temp came up pretty fast, even with a little air moving thru the radiator. It did drop down a bit at higher speeds on track before it rose with hard acceleration. Oil temp rose more slowly, but again under full throttle or close to it, it rose to 220F but came down when I lifted and ran at around 4500 Rpm in 6th for a lap or two.

I'm back again with another update to my saga. Previously I posted that I was having pressurization of the Coolant in the expansion tank but no evidence of any exhaust gases when a chemical sniff test was performed. I had gone to Evans coolant but was still getting pressurization. Other attempts at resolving the issue were a new Radtec triple pass extreme radiator, Water pump, Thermostat and belt tensioner assembly. As well as relocating the expansion tank to the highest point, a 29 psi cap and a bleed hose from the radiator back ito the expansion tank along with a couple of one way valves. After those mods the car ran well with water temps at 195F solid and oil temps around 210F. The only issue was the pressurization and puking of the coolant when I ran above 5500 RPM. The engine is a Cosworth built 2.3L Duratec with uprated SBD cams and 13:1 compression ratio. I gave up this winter and pulled the head and replaced the head gasket, and while the head and block were ok, there was slight evidence of detonation according to my mechanic and the machine shop. So after reassembling the engine, I had Steve at SBD review the current map and just last Wednesday he spent four hours doing a remote rolling road session. I had asked for a nice safe tune since I only do trackdays and I didn't need every last ounce of power. He felt that he probably left 20 or more HP on the table but we were happy with the results. So it looks like the head gasket was breached, and the engine did lean out a bit around the 5500 rpm level. So with that all fixed, I took it out on the track this weekend for two days of fun. The car ran great, however water temp did get up to 215F and Oil temp hit 220F when running hard. When I backed off, it came back down to 200 F water and 210F oil. I know that's not terrible, but It was running significantly cooler last year. Steve at SBD recommended upgrading my oil cooler from the current 9 row to a 16-19 row one. Any other thoughts or recommendations? Tom

Thanks again Elie. Will do. Tom

Looking at the fill plug level, I see a big difference between it's level and that on the Caterham Six speed. Any idea on what the correct fill level will be? Is there an indicator line? Fill it to the top? or a set amount of fluid? thanks in advance again. Tom

Thank you!

I'm assuming the Sadev sequential has a drain plug and a filler plug. Can someone tell me where they are on the Gearbox? I'm use to the Caterham 6 speed location but didn't see one on the Sadev. Thx Tom

Blatchat to the rescue again. Thank you very much Jonathan!!!! Tom

Does anyone have a link to a wiring diagram for a 2009 Duratec SV? My mechanic is installing a wide band O2 sensor and trying to find a switched source. This car I bought last year has been heavily modified by the original owner but any help will save me time and money. Cheers. Tom

Thanks Mark!

Does anyone know what gear oil is recommended for the Sadev 6 speed Sequential?

I'm happy to report that I finally had a full day of full sessions on track with no issues!!! I had a small .040 hole bleed nipple made for the top bleed bolt on the radiator that I plumbed up to the expansion tank, which I moved up to the highest point on the scuttle/firewall. I replaced that one with an 1/8 inch fitting which allowed a little better flow potential. I had been running the expansion tank level at just below the MIN line as it allowed for expansion without puking at least for the first session on track. A friend and fellow Caterham owner suggested that on track that might be the cause of my issue as the air could be sucked in on high g cornering or just due to sloshing that left the bottom hose uncovered. I filled the tank to the max line and after the first 25 minute session, with air temps at 95F the car ran great with Coolant temps maxing out at 210F. Coolant rose to about the 3/4 full level, but no puking. So it looks like it was able to self bleed itself. Coolant level dropped back to the 1/2 full mark before the next session, so still above the Max line, but the second session also was a success. Max coolant level 212F. After the third and fourth sessions the coolant level seemed to stay pretty stable, as did the coolant temps. So At this point, I'm going to call it resolved. Seemed to be air in the system due to my stupidity. OH, bonus of the day was we had special guests on track with us. Andy Lalli, 4 time Rolex Daytona 24 hour winner, and Katherine Legge, from your side of the pond. She was awesome. What a nice person. She said she may be running the Indy500 in 2016. Send over a few more like her please. Thanks again for all your suggestions. Gotta love Blatchat!!! Tom

That's one thing that I have not done! I know that there is no restriction in the line coming from the head to the expansion tank. And I know that if I sqeeze the lower radiator hose that coolant will squirt in to the tank from the small hose coming from the head. Off to the hardward store in the morning. Thanks!

Yes, I have the Cosworth larger waterpump pulley.

Water pump is functioning, but I'm planning on converting to the SBD electric water pump set up as another thing to try before conceeding to a head gasket failure. The thinking being that the electric pump will not be rev dependent in pumping the coolant around, where as the mechanical one is, even though most duratecs run with the mechanical pump with no issues.

OIl catch tank? I have one on my Dry Sumped RoverK with the Caterham bellhousing tank too.

No, hose from back of the head goes to the top of the radiator on the intake side with no water rail.

Rob, the engine is Dry Sumped and I have a catch tank that any overfill usually pukes into. I just went out and warmed up the car, brought the coolant up to 195F-200F, and performed another exhaust gas test, since I recently moved the expansion tank up onto the firewall. Revved the engine, did the test for several minutes, more idling and revving and once again, no color change in the test fluid, so Negative for exhaust gases in the coolant system. Frustrating.

I'm still using the Evans coolant. I was hoping for coolant temps of around 212-215F max. Or al least below 220F. I'll try another exhaust gas test now that the expanison tank is up closer to the back of the head. I'm probably still in the denial phase re: the head gasket failure. Having a K series that had a silmilar problem, I'm familiar with the symptoms. Just hoping to avoid telling the wife I need to spend more on this one now. Having two catermams in the garage seems to draw her attention to them much more than when I only had one. I just hope there is nothing wrong with the Cosworth head. Those puppies are expensive! Thanks for listening and the suggestions. Keep em coming. Tom

Took the car to the track on Thursday. First session went well. Made the whole 25 minutes session. and ran it hard once the oil temp came up. Coolant temp stayed rock steady at 190-195F Oil temp 210F. No puking and the level in the tank rose about 1 1/2 inches to mid tank level. I was cautiously optomistic. Coolant level in the tank dropped back to the Max line on the tank, which was still well above the original level that I started it at, in the hour or so between sessions. Ran for just about 20 minutes and the coolant temp rose to 220F, oil about the same. Once I backed off, the temp came down. Coolant had risen to about 3/4 level of the tank and a slight bit of coolant had burped from the cap. Prior to the third session after lunch, after the system had cooled off, I opened the cap and the coolant rose slighly but no real pressure build up. I then opened the radiator bleed bolt and got a slight bit of air and then coolant. Level in the tank had dropped back to just below the max line level. Third session, the car ran well, Coolant level did not exceed 200F. Oil 210F. Coolant level rose a bit and there was again just a few drops that burped from the tank/cap. So I'm really confused now. Car runs great, but this is now very annoying. I'm thinking of changing out the water pump with a new mechanical one for now. Then doing the SBD Electric one over the winter. Also thinking of moving the 10 row oil cooler from the front of the radiator to behind it and replacing it with a 16 or 19 row one. Any other thoughts/suggestions??? Tom