TomGaval
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Everything posted by TomGaval
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Miraz, thanks for the confirmation. I've been reading this thread and thought maybe my yellow rack had something to do with it being LHD. BTW I had the kit speced with the wide track and clam shell fenders and they don't stick out too much, although I do find a lot of small stones one the seat after a drive. Tom
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Arnie, I have a similar set-up. extend the oil pressure wire, white with black trace. I was on the right side of my car tywrapped to the brace. I ran a separate wire for the oil temp sender with a switch on the bell tank to go from oil to water temp. Just a note, the threaded ends of the brass tee don't match my sending unit. Tom
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Pierre, I recently purchased a 4-2-1 exhaust system from Caterham for a LHD K series. It was the LHD 4 into 1 that they don't make. Clearance is tight but no interference with the steering or starter. Tom
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It appears that the hydralic slave cylinder set up i cobbled together is not adjusted properly, leaking, etc. I am attempting to add spacers to take up the slack. Hopefully, this resolves the problem. Thanks all for the suggestions. Registration came in today, with this issue resolved, my first drive is the only item left on my build check list! I'll update tomorrow. Tom
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Thanks, got home last nite and found they had ripped the street up for repaving, and had a 4 inch drop from the driveway to the street. I'll try this method first unless there are any severe downsides? Thanks again for the suggestions guys. Tom
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You guys are GREAT! Since the car is still awaiting registration approval from the State, and it has not been run in yet except for the dyno, not only will I risk getting caught with an unregistered car, It will be for speeding, and since their are NO other Caterhams in the area, let alone a bright yellow one, I might stand out a little. So I'm going to leave work now and give it a go! Should be a blast. Tom
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Ok Peter, followed your instructions, in 1st gear with engine off. tried to rock car. No go. Put it in 6th, turned starter over, car lurched forward. Started car, tried to put in gear even with clutch in, car tried to move forward. Turned car off put in 6th gear, clutch in, started car, car lurched forward. I know that's not right. Diagnosis? Solutions? Thanks in advance for the help. By the way clutch fork movement is substantial. Tom
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Thanks guys, I just started it up. At idle, when I try to put in gear with the clutch in, the revs start to drop off, no grinding or other noise. If I let the clutch out I get just the slightest movement. Again, does not feel like the gear is fully engaged. Will try the previous suggestions when I get home tonite, unless this info leads to other good suggestions Peter. Tom
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Thanks Allen, Just finished the build and finally got the wiring sorted, so this was the first start up. No strange noises. I had to fabricate a clevis from the slave cylinder to the clutch arm. Apparently Caterham never anticpated a hydraulic clutch for the six speed dry sump clutch fork. (At least that's what their engineer Charles Hayhurst told me. It appears that I am getting movement at the clucth arm. Any one know how much movement is required? Tom
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With the car off, I can engage all gears(6 speed). With the engine running I can't select any. No grinding though. I have a hydraulic master and slave cylinder set up. Any Ideas, suggestions. Tom
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Finally, finished building, thanks to all. Without your daily contributions here,I don't think it would have went so well. Turned the key for the first time and engine turned over, idled smoothly at 1000 rpm then the revs began to rise to about 1800-2000 for several seconds, then the dropped off until it stalled. Started again, same thing. I could keep it running if I blipped the throttle. Idle setting? any suggestions. 1.8 k series 196bhp, with dta. Tom
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Thank, What should I be looking for on the map? Recommended Settings? Tom
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In trying to get my engine started for the first time,(unsuccessfully) I've determined that the engine is not getting fuel. When I turn the key I hear the fuel pump cycle once, then it goes quiet. I have a QED prepared 1.8 K series with a DTA ECU. If I jump the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump runs continuosly, and the engine starts and stays running. Question is Is it a ECU problem? Mapping? If so what the recommended fix? Or can I just install a switch to run the fuel pump continuosly? Any risks with that option? Tom
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Mike, Now that you've really made me feel good. Can you email me a copy of the map or equivilent spreadsheet. I would like to compare it to the one that is currently programmed into my ECU. Comparing mine to what Tony Martyr sent me, I see significant differences. Best two out of three? email address tgaval@home.com Just to add that my original dealings with QED were ok. However I agree with the lack of customer focus!! Tom
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Thanks, Guys, I'll give Tony's map a try. As for fuel costs your're right. QED recommended minimum 97 octane. I bought 7 gallons of 100 octane race fuel for $30 US!!! Regular 94 Octane is only $1.75 a gallon. Tom
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Arnie, I was told the same, surprise, my 196hp came in at 12:4:1 compression. I was expecting 11:5. When I spoke to Allan at DTA. He was of no help and referred me back to QED. Question. Can a map be supplied electronically, so that I don't have to ship the car/engine back to England. Here in the US there aren't many familiar with the Rover K or DTA. Or could a competent mechanic with a dyno set it up? Car looks good. Will it ever run? Tom
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Mike, Looks like I'm stuck in a loop. DTA suggested going back to DTA for the map. Anyone else have a DTA map for the 190+bhp Rover? Email me at tgaval@home.com. Thanks Tom
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Oily, a copy of the map would be appreciated. Email address is tgaval@home.com Thanks Tom
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Having fun yet! In my experience most parts need some finess, grinding, etc. Brown wires attach to the altenator and battery. They should be tye wrapped on the left side of engine. Tom
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DTA users, I have a Rover K 1.8 that QED built speced to 190+ hp. I tried to start it for the first time today. It cranks but does not start. The DTA unit is a model # E 48. I ran it thru a laptop, and all the setting are at 0.0. DTA's web site didn't have a Rover sample listed. Can anyone suggest base line mapping guidelines? Tom
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Answer to question "can I bolt the light bracket instead of pop riviting it?" NO. Tom
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Ian, Caterham sells an inexpensive bracket for the superlight's that pop rivets underneath the rear back panel. I just mounted one. The light shines upward onto the plate. Tom
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What's the recommended solution to the lack of an Oil Temp gauge? Is it required? Any thoughts on drilling a hole in the dash an installing a switch that allows the water temp gauge to be switched to Oil temp? Any special care in drilling a carbon dash? Are there any dual electrical gauges anyone can recommend? Tom Gaval
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Had mine painted by Caterham Ferrari Yellow (gialo) Ferrari Paint code FE102.
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Tony, I may have the only Rover K series in the States. It was built by QED, so Caterham hasn't been much help in questions about it. Your picture has been helpful. Where do the two Blue hoses coming out of the head end up? Since it's also a Dry Sumped Left hand drive model, anyone have a good suggestion as how to mount an altenator since there is no room on the right because of the dry sump pump and the steering interferes on the left. Only thought I have is to mount it on the front of the engine and run it backwards. Additional pictures of K series wiring and plumbing would be appreciated.
