TomGaval

Yes, bleed tee is at top of the heater hose connection. Blat mail sent. Thanks! Tom

Ok, changed the cap, opened the heater valve, unscrewed the expansion tank cap, topped off the hose at the bleed tee andstarted the car and removed the radiator bleed screw. Coolant came out of the bleed screw hole, sputtered a bit which I took to be air, then steady stream. Replaced and tightened bleed screw cap was back on the expansion tank. temp cam up to about 60 and stayed steady. expansion tank coolant dropped very slightly, after 10 or 15 minutes no change in temp. Turned off car, top of radiator was hot, bottom hose barely warm. What did I do wrong? What do I do next? Tom

I went back thru the archives and read all the posts I could find and yes Nick it does sound all to similar. I've replaced the cap, bleed the system and will run it again this weekend and let you know how it responds. I wonder what the cost will be to ship the engine over to Oily. As for you Croc, we'll see if you can keep up with me, Just wish that I did have the Duratec with the extra 80+ hp gap you have on me. Doesn't take much talent to catch me on the straights you girl. 😬 😬 😬 see you on Saturday. Tom

That's the one. Will do. Thanks Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 13 Nov 2013 21:57:00

Just did a major massage of the hoses and topped off the hose at the bleed tee. Replaced the expansion tank cap and will take it to the track on Saturday and Sunday and see what happens. I'll keep an eye on the temp during the time on track. So should I run with the coolant right up to the fill line or drop it down slightly to start out? As the head has never been off, what are the steps to changing the Head gasket? I'm going to pull the engine over the winter to change the clutch, so I assume it will be an easier job with the engine out. What gasket is recommended? What other pieces and parts will I need? Does the it need to be peened? Skimmed? No leaks from the gastket so far. Will running it this weekend damage it assuming I keep the temp within range and the fluid at the correct level? Just planning for the worst. Hopefully it will be fine this weekend. Thanks in advance guys. As one of very few if any other K Series over here in the states, I doubt I'll find anyone that knows this unique engine. Unless Oily wants to take a little winter vacation. 😬 Tom

I've had good success with the Drift HD 1080

I have one more track weekend to go this weekend. I'll try to bleed it again before I go and see what happens. Could it be a faulty expansion cap? Tom

Had the car at the track this weekend and ran the first 3 sessions on Saturday with no issues. At the end of the 4th session, as I was returning to paddock, I noticed a bit of fluid on the brooklands and the vents in the bonnet. Temp gauge never showed any issues. I removed the bonnet to find that expansion tank was full and leaking coolant. Lower hoses seemed to be somewhat cool. So I opened the bleed tee and flexed the lower hose and had some air bubbles released. I drained out the excess coolant and brought the level back to the fill line. Ran the car in the paddock for a a bit, saw the temp go to about 80 and then the temp dropped a bit and the level in the expansion tank dropped, I Stopped and added back the coolant that I had originally removed and it brought the level back up to the fill level. Thinking all was good I ran the next 20 minute session. Temp stayed around 60 ish all the time, but when I checked the coolant level was now up to the top of the expansion tank. Drained again, checked for air again, filled to the fill line and drove around the paddock again, Same thing, temp comes up to 80, drops down to 65 ish and the coolant level in the expansion tank, again drops a bit. I decided not to fill it to the fill line, Ran the next 20 minute session, temps stayed constant, and when I checked in the paddock, the coolant in the tank was now up to the fill line. I'm confused now as for the last 12 years, I never had a issue. Any thoughts? 1.8L Dry sumped K. Thanks Tom

Sorry 2003 S3 Edited by - TomGaval on 27 Sep 2013 13:26:31

A friend of mine is looking for a RH side dedion Drive shaft. Anyone have a spare they would be willing to sell? Thanks Tom

Thanks for the tip. Will Do. I have 8 trackdays left this season and I don't feel like buying any more tires. 😬 God, I love driving this little car. Tom

Just got home from a great day on the track. Happy to report that replacing the fronts, solved the shake problem. Seems that the left side tires take a beating from all the right hand turns. I'll start rotating the tires and have them flipped on the rims after several track days to even out the wear. Tom

Just picked up the wheels and slicks from the shop. The track that I've been running on has 11 turns of which 9 are rights and only 2 are lefts. Wear on the left side tires was apparent and for whatever reason, the tires and wheels without weights were 147 grams out of balance. 😳 I had two new slicks and those on the wheels without weights were only 46 grams out before balancing. So based on that it appears that somehow the tires ended up 100grams out of balance. Hopefully this resolves the issue. I will attempt to run another trackday on Saturday and I'll report back with the results. Thanks again for your suggestions! Tom

No I did not clean out the inside of the wheels, There was a lot of rubber inside the rear ones, but not much in the fronts. Took the wheels and slicks over to the shop to get them looked at and see if they are balanced properly. Should know something tomorrow. Thanks to all for your help. Tom

Thanks guys! I'll let you know what I find. Tom

Took the 7 out for a two day trackday event this weekend. The car ran great for 7 sessions then on the 8th one it started to vibrate/shake in both long sweepers and the straights. No issue under braking, but it shook enough to vibrate my center mirror loose. I pitted and checked for any front wheel bearing play but all seemed normal. Running slicks so I did pick up a lot of rubber and I did scrape off a big pile of it. But on the next session it still vibrated pretty hard so I called it a day. Any thoughts on what the possible causes could be? Tom

Will these fit on a 2000 Caterham with the AP big brake kit and the vented discs? Or are they the ones that will fit the Uprated newer hubs? Thx Tom

Check the gasket at the water rail to block. Maybe the water rail just needs tightening up. Tom

I just had the same issue with my RoverK, drysumped bellhousing, Hydraulic clutched, 6speed, LHD 😬 I had a couple of spacers inserted to lengthen the slave Pull. Also found that the hydraulic clutch clevis on the clutch Master was worn a bit and had some additional play. Seemed fine during two back to back trackdays last week. Hoping that's all it was but have a clutch, CRB, spigot bearing, and new drysump clutch arm on the bench if it acts up again. Good Luck. Tom

Thanks Roger. I found the thread with his drawing and pics. Thanks very much! Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 29 Mar 2013 21:15:37

Tillets work then? If so, then can you describe the details of the extention plate? any pics? Tom

Cage is in the works.

Thanks Dave. Email sent. I have the stock fabric seatback, with a foam bead seat bottom to get me lower, and the headrest is the Caterham one that attaches to the rollbar. Tom Edited by - TomGaval on 29 Mar 2013 15:51:33 Edited by - TomGaval on 29 Mar 2013 15:52:06

As I'm doing a lot of trackdays, I'd like to get a Hans device, but from what I understand the standard mounting points for the sholder harnesses are too widely spaced for proper functioning of the HANS device. What are the possible solutions to modify the mounting points? Obviously I can't just take the car to Arch. Tom

Amsoil 5-40 or 10-40 is what I have been using, Tom