SM25T
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Everything posted by SM25T
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Mine are Protech 400 series 1-way adjustable, revalved by ProComp.
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On my 2002 SV I gave the following info. All measured with dampers on car Fronts:- 384mm fully extended 363mm with car on ground but no occupants (currently 250lb springs). Bushes 32mm long both ends with sleeves to suit 5/16" bolts. Rears:- 480mm long fully extended. 465mm long with car on ground but no occupants (CC progressive springs). Sleeves in bushes 35mm long to suit 1/2" dia bolts. Road use only. Often 2 up (100kg plus 70kg) plus tools and luggage in the boot. But can be driver only. Set it up before with our weights on seats ... front height to suit required sump clearance. Then rear of chassis +15mm.
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I couldn't justify spending thousands on other brands for my road touring use. They just do the job well and are great value for money. Speak to Matt at ProComp Motorsport and ask what model of one way adjustable dampers needed from Protech
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I have put a strip of self adhesive foam on top of the aluminium plenum on my VVC to stop it contacting the bonnet
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Certainly removing my rear ARB transformed cornering on bumpy roads. Took it off years ago and it stayed off.
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It was indeed late 2017
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It was a few years ago. Maybe 2017 ?
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Not at all. On the fronts I needed a 25mm longer top eye to avoid top spring cup fouling a bracket.
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On my SV, I replaced all 4 dampers and springs for less than £600 .... supplied by ProComp Motorsport, using dampers from Protech which were revalved by ProComp to suit the Caterham. Work really well for my road use.
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Couldn't take a photo, but I passed a shrink wrapped helicopter on a low loader on the A2 this morning. Recovair truck
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Cut the cable ties on the gaiter. Undo (just crack) the lock nut at the outside end of the track rod arm which sits against the track rod end. Mark the inner faced of the lock nut position on the rod with a bit of paint. Find the flats on the rod and unscrew the rod from the track rod end ... etc
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And when fitting the gaiter and you can't reach through the side skin to push the wide end on to the rack (nearside on my SV), fold the mouth of the gaiter back on itself half an inch or so, push it up to the rack, then use a screwdriver or spoon handle to unfold it and it pops into place over the rack spigot 👍
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Just remove it and add the extra oil drain holes on the shelf of the sump gasket. Why take the risk.
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Talk to someone like PGM, Boss Racing or Sevens & Classics
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To measure current, the meter has to be in the series circuit, not in parallel.
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Don't put brake fluid in the Gunson EziBleed bottle. Just use it as an air reservoir. Otherwise any air leak on the cap makes an effective brake fluid sprayer.
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Change the single wire sender first. Cheapest option. They can be unreliable
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That is too low. The fan would always be on, draining the battery ! The thermostat should do most of the work, with the fan coming on at higher temperatures, ie when stopped in traffic. Mine indicates a steady 80C all day long.
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Don't lose the o-ring on the stem of the pick up
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I hope 60psi is for the tow truck -
Contactless laser thermometers are very useful, but give false readings if aimed at reflective surfaces, like unpainted aluminium or steel components. If you have to use such a surface it is suggested attach a piece of tape first.
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No, I recall it was higher in the 80s
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Examples for fan switch
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Look at the marks on the fan switch in the top of the radiator. Possibly something like open at 92 and close again at 87 ? Sender is not very reliable. What thermostat do you have fitted . I use an 82C to keep things cool at any ambient.
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The connections for the switch lighting circuit are very close to the cut out in the dash. Very easy to short when moving switches. Wonder if a loose strand touching dash ?
