StewartG

Could the thread of the insert that you screw the filter onto be knackered?

The only thing that can let oil leak down from above the exhaust manifold is the cam cover gasket. Mine split when overtightened. I wonder if the other one is due to the rear crank journal not being sealed in properly, this is notoriously difficult. A further thought, could the pipe from the dipstick area up to the cam cover be split?

I think Stig means that it's possible to retain driveability with bigger chokes if you have fuel injection, something that's notoriously difficult with carbs.

Would agree with the above it's a worthwile straight swop. You can get the recommended jetting for these cams from QED but obviously the final nuances will change from engine to engine Are you running a distributor? If not you'll need to block the oilway at the back of the exhaust cam.

Corner weighting?

There's no "a" in Peter Edited by - StewartG on 5 May 2004 08:05:04

Have the cracks welded up.

Sounds like the pump has a problem and that's what's throwing off the belt although I'm not aware these are known tobe troublesome, assuming it's the Caterham/Titan one, if it's an SBD one I have no expereience of them. As mentioned this would empty the tank and deposit all the oil into the sump where it cannot be sucked into the internal pressure pump and so the oil pressure will fail If the engine has run with low oil pressure the hydraulic lifters will empty and even if the oil pressure is restored they will take some time to refill, I'm guessing at several minutes, and so the tappetts will rattle horribly. Loss of oil pressure may have caused all sorts of other problems and associated nasty noises of course. I don't remember my pump having much resistance to hand cranking at all. If I were you I'd repair or replace the pump, check the cam bearings, main bearing and big end bearings for signs of overheating. I assume the cam bearings may lose lubrication first as the others are at least getting splashed with the overfull contents of the sump and the cam ones are the easiest to check. If the bearings don't look like they've got too hot maybe you could try starting the engine keeping a close eye on the oil pressure and making sure oil is being pumped back to the tank but expect the lifters to rattle until they refill. Good luck.

Sorry sold

Peter am I ok for the webber fuel pump and XE thermostat housing if so can I collect?

Can I have the Xe thermostat housing and webber fuel pump please? Perhaps you could e-mail contact details. Thanks

Roger King used to do a suitable toothed crank wheel, he might still have some.

Could be the seal at the front of the exhaust cam - easy to change or maybe you could look at the crank sensor they often leak around there, try sealing with silicon.

How much did it make on E-bay? in my experience it's difficult to get a bargain there.

North London/South Herts close to J24 of the M25

Still trying to get rid of a pair of 185x60x13 Yoko 32R's in the supersoft sticky compound. They've still got 3-4mm of tread and are good for several track days and still road legal. I'm only selling them as I've changed to 48R's and had to change all four even though the fronts were still ok. Looking for £30 for the pair or offers.

I'm not sure of the maths or my ability to explain them (perhaps someone more technical can help) but here goes. The engine consumes 295cu ft /min at 8000rpm Thats 509760cu inches/min The airbox entry is approx 16sq inches In one minute the column of air flowing into the airbox with cross section area 16 sq inches would be 31860 inches long In one hour it would be 1911600 inches long that's 30.17 miles It would appear that at speeds above 30mph more air is going into the airbox than the engine is consuming.

Edited by - StewartG on 19 Apr 2004 08:54:43

Was it oily black or dry black?

Keith, isn't that comment a little defamatory? There's a lot of time and effort gone into the design of that airbox so why not let him post about it.

Was this measured with clean air going into the airbox or in the real life low pressure area behind the headlight?

I'm not sure 15w50 Mobil 1 motorsport is a good idea WITH HYDRAULIC LIFTERS ok with solid one obviously. I suspect you have a problem elsewhere, thicker oil will only help the effect not the cause.

Pete, are you running carbs?

I have "bottom mount" shox which I'm using middle mount and you have ""middle mount" shox which you have to use bottom mount. Fancy investigating the possibility of a swap.

Up Up and away