Pete H

Mine used to leak badly from around the level sensor on the cap (uprated master cylinder). Always used to leak after I had been "giving it some", so G's enough to slop fluid out of the cap. Fix was a new cap with no sensor, and an internal belows to accomodate any level change in the reservoir. Caterham supplied one with my kit. Its been fine since I fitted it. Worth checking the obvious unions on the M/C are nipped up as well. Pete.

If its an R500 I dont think it has an ICAV as on roller barrels ? One thing that may be worth checking is when you reset the idle speed with the screw between the throttle bodies, it is possible to go the wrong way and go over center, i.e. past closed and then opening again but on the wrong side if you get my meaning. Speaking from experience Pete.

Yeah, got the vented rad which wont be helping. I would be interested to see where Caterham's study on the heat flows around the engine bay ends up... Pete.

Has anyone successfully routed cold air into the transmission tunnel , rather than the footwell ? My footwells arent too bad, although I have used heat reflective foil on the footwell ends. The tunnel sides get uncomfortably hot though, due to the stagnant trapped hot air, and they are lined with insulation too. I would either like to flood the tunnel with cool air or try and find a way to ventilate it without venting to the cockpit. Or, would wrapping the primaries alone do the trick by reducing the heat at source? Pete.

Excellent, thanks very much !! Pete.

Ahhh, Good O, will look forward to that. So, looking at the map again, is it basically on the corner between St Johns Rd, and Sandicliffe Rd ?

Anyone got some directions to TSK. I've got a postcode, but checking on multimap plonks it on what looks like someones house (using the satellite view). I'm taking the 7 down on Monday to get a small dent resolved that was all my own making (and bloody annoying). Anyway, any key points of note to look out for when somewhere close to Sandicliffe Rd, or is it obvious when I get there ? Will have the trailer on and didnt fancy too many wrong turns. Thanks all Pete.

Martin, I think you will find the two bolts in the pads box are probably spare. You should find a set of four (probably with blue locktite on them) in the kit boxes somewhere. They hold the sliding pins on the fixed bit of the caliper (pins with gaiters), to the half with the piston in. Cant remember the torque on the bolts though. Pete.

I had something similar once, it was a driveshaft UJ. Went quiet when car was jacked up and the suspension was on full droop. Could only hear it if you were pushing the car back into a garage after a blat and the grease in the UJ had warmed up. Pete.

Dave, I've heat shielded the inside of the tunnel, and end of the footwell with aluminised glass fibre cloth. No idea if its worked yet as I'm still waiting for the DVLA inspection to register my car, but thats another story.... Pete.

Thanks Tony My new car gets its first spotted *thumbup*. Noticed you behind as I pulled away from the bridge toll. Glad you liked the colour, its certainly bright. On its way to its post build check. Pete.

Hi Nige, I think for LED brightness you just use the up and down arrows on the control module when the units powered up (normal running). I have a copy of the manual if it would help. PM me your address and I will pop a photocopy in the post. Pete.

Coming to the conclusion the master cylinder is defective, I think the piston seal on the rear circuit is too close to the feed hole into the rear chamber so it the cyliner is cutting off before it gets a chance to fill from the reservoir. Been able to coax some fluid into the cylinder by opening the union, pushing the piston in, closing the union, and releasing, basically creating a slight vacumn in the master cylinder, but still no pressure being produced. Think I will ask Caterham for a new cylinder unless there are any other tricks for priming the cylinder. Cheers Pete.

Trying to bleed the brakes on my new car, the rear circuit just isnt pumping. I've even disconnected the rear brake line from the master cylinder and nothing is coming out, not even a drip. Drained the tank and checked the ports and their clear too. Does this mean the seal on the pistons failed, or a drillings blocked somehow ? The fronts circuit is happily sucking fluid down merrily. Its the uprated AP one by the way. Pumped the pedal really slowly so I'm sure it cant have inverted the seal on the piston. Done this plenty of times before. Cheers Pete.

Think I may have screwed up here, new build and I've set the handbrake before filling and bleeding the brake lines. Is that a problem, no suggestion as such in the build manual, but I've just stumbled on a piece of paper in the bottom of the caliper box then states the calipers must be bled before using the handbrake mechanism. Does this mean the self adjuster on the handbrake will be set in the wrong place ? If so can I reset it somehow ? Thanks Pete.