StewartG

What ecu and cams are you after?

Rather than blocking the inside, air sucking pickup, mechanically with sliding weights how about using an external g force sensor to electronically control valves in the two pickups?

I've just found the bush and I'm sure I have the T bolt and the y piece. No longer needed due to spare wheel removal so open to offers

Tim, YHM I'm in Barnet.

These sound like the anti roll bar linkages and if one has been removed thats a minimalist way of disabling the arb. It shouldn't affect the handling unless it's fouling something. The proper way to do away with the arb is to remove it and all it's linkages completely.

There's nothing wrong with the steel ones, just clean it up and polish it nice and shiny and stick it back in. In my opinion the nylon ones can chafe (spelling) and cause the problem they're supposed to cure.

Yep I've got one somewhere.

When you say you checked the venturi screw did you check all four of them?

Pair of 185/60/13 48R's just about down to the wear markers but several track days left in them. How does £25 sound.

Told you there was a blockage! Didn't think of the non return valve though. Has it returned the oil pressure to normal and stopped the tapping?

Converting to solid lifters will cure the symptoms not the problem. Unless the problem is the lifters themselves. I have a spare set of lifters you can try. I am using 42h cams with 10w40 with no tapping. I still think you have a blockage maybe the filter. If you do have a blockage it follows from the high pressure that not much oil is circulating. Is there the usual amount being pumped into the dry sumo tank? Edited by - StewartG on 23 Apr 2005 00:16:12

George Poley is not usually open on saturday and I don't think the 7 workshop fit tyres themselves although I'm sure they use someone local. I use Crystal Autos at the back of Ratrace in Barnet. Ask for Rob he's a really nice guy.

I adopted a belt and braces approach with mine. Fitted a longer bolt still screwed through the threaded bush but with a nylock on the inside so that it can't come loose.

Even when mine was tapping badly there appeared to be loads of oil in the head however adding oil to the sump cured it. I know QED say the ball cannot go in too far...... But if it has the oil feed to the rear exhaust cam bearing will be cut off. This will make that bearing overheat . Check the bearing cap for signs.

Could be a sticking hydraulic lifter or even one with a blocked hole. Doesn't account for the high oil pressure though unless the disturbed adjustment theory bears fruit. I have a set of lifters. Although when I replaced mine it didn't stop tapping so don't jump to the conclusion it's them. Could the oil filter be blocked? I've just remembered I have a spare set of hydraulic lifters. Edited by - StewartG on 21 Apr 2005 18:02:11