StewartG

There was a newish seven at the Goat last week with orange bulb indicators in the headlamps. Thinking about this the side lights must have been converted to indicators. Is it legal, to have no side lights?

I too felt the difference and I don't think castor "just" affects straight line tracking, does it not also impact on camber during a turn.

I've just swapped from a Coscast to a GM head and thankfully there's no mayo so presumably it's not porous. My Coscast head has a valve seal issue but I think it will form the basis for extra work and maybe bigger valves etc when funds allow.

I prefer the 2 ans 2 solution as the extra castor give the steering more self centering and feel.

There seems to be about half a dozen head torqueing specs, who knows who to believe.

I would say you should be looking at general set up and then the weber progression problem.

Mark, I'm in North London.

Do you think James might be able to help out with my stripped threads, how can I contact him?

Who is James F maybe he could sort me out too?

I've just found out, to my cost, that there are two lengths of cylinder head bolts. Using the short bolts in a thick head can result in the thread being pulled out of the block amd then a frantic search for someone reliable to helicoil it. Any suggestions? The bolts should show 27mm of thread when pushed through the head. The short bolt/thick head combination shows more like 20mm. Result stripped thread or maybe head gasket failure. Maybe this is relevant to the above problem

Does the water escape from the header tank when the engine is running or after it's switched off?

Tjis thread has got me thinking again. I suggest that the ideal is to have a rate of throttle response which increases with throttle movement so that it's relatively insensitive with small amounts of pedal movement, for fine adjustment on a light throttle and at or near full throttle we need the reverse. The problem with easing the cable bend by lowering the cable exit on the pedal box is that the cable addresses the pedal at an even more acute angle at full throttle than at idle. This gives a falling response to pedal input . Maybe a solution is to bend the pedal so that even when lowered, the cable is still at 90 degrees-ish to it. This would make the ball joint type mods redundant but I'm not sure if the cable can be adjusted enough to compensate. I'll have a play at the weekend and see.

Standard remedy is to hammer a ball bearing into the back of the cam, not too far though or it will block the oil feed to the rearmost bearing.

I had exactly the same problem which caused the throttle linkage to be stif and knotchy. I shrouded the outer cable in some stiff tubing held on with tie wraps so that it could not bend so sharply, this brought the cable into more intimate contact with the rearmost K&N but helped the action.

If the spacers aren't equal front and back the belt will not stay on.

I;ve seen Donnington advertised at 100db.

Have you fitted the restrictor in the pipe to the expansion tank?

I've got one somewhere, make me an offer!

I've had this and it's the bearing loose in it's housing. Easy to fix, just undo the nut, the bearing will drop out, fix back in with bearing lock - available from Halfords and refit nut. Changing the bearing can be a little more fraught because there are two types of retaining circlip.

Yers but is a car not perfectly balanced when the front-back ride heights are adjusted to give the drivers preferred under/oversteer balance and the corner weights are set for equal lock up and the suspension geometry is optimised?

It's been a long held conviction that the sole purpose of corner weighting is to get the wheels (hpoefully the front ones) to lock up together. What other benefit can it have?

Be very careful with these bolts. Mine had been cross threaded at sometime during its life and ended up shearing, leaving me driving on three wheels. The rest of the bolt appears welded into the hole and has so far resisted both mine and professional persuasion to remove it.

Does anyone know why a thinner oil (5w40) should make the engine run hotter than thicker (5w50). I would have thought that although the less viscous oil may indicate lower pressure on the gauge if anything it's ability to flow more easily around the engine might carry more heat away from thr bearings etc and it's lower viscosity would result in less heat generating pumping losses, especially relevant if the engine is revved hard .

I would second that, a bit of judicious twisting of the spindle to get the butterfies parallel is apparently even suggested in various manuals and if it doesn't work you can always change the spindle.

I wonder if this would fit over the trumpets of my DCOE 45s could you measure the spacing of the holes in the backplate please? How far apart, centre to centre are holes 2 and 3 and how far either side of these are holes 1 and 2 Thanks Stewart