stevethemook
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Everything posted by stevethemook
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Driving a vehicle with expired MOT certificate to an MOT test
stevethemook replied to John Vine's topic in TechTalk
See near the bottom here for a vehicle that's not even taxed. Always thought you could as long as it's pre-booked as you said. Edited to say ..Im to slow a typist. 😬 Steve Edited by - stevethemook on 9 Jun 2012 11:58:30 -
Mine packed up due to a broken quill off the gearbox but it was displaying the mileage..Sounds like a duff speedo to me. Check all cables around the back but sound NBG to me Got mine re calibrated and set up to run of the front wheel sensor by Speedy Cables. Once you get through the MOT as Bricol says have a chat with them . They are v slow (6 weeks to do mine) but worth it. Steve
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or use Redline to get the bits but get the cover off and quote the belt number . Trickiest part I found was removing the belt pulley wheel bolt.. Steve
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Ive just got one of these inductors from Speedy Cables..see bottom of page.. Speedy cables have modified my speedo to work with this as the original quill feeding the speedo sensor on my gearbox broke and I did not fancy taking out the box. Still to fit in a couple of weeks after my holidays but all very easy. Give them a ring just to check. Steve
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I found the Circlip holding the top hat is a bugger to get back on.. Just for info for anybody else ..My speedo packed up altogether and I removed the sensor /top hat to find the quill on the end of the sensor broken off and jammed into the gearbox.Put the top hat back and then sent my speedo off to Speedy Cables to convert it to use a sensor off the front wheel hub. Takes 4 weeks to do the conversion /its not cheap but easier than whipping out the box. steve
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Another one here with a Optimate 4 . Had the 7 now for 5 years and still on the same battery so reckon its done 8 years. Always keep an eye on the electrolyte level when its been on the conditioner and use deionised water as a top up ..as today. Have a Bentley 1955 R type which I alternate weekly on the conditioner with the 7. Again never had a battery fail in the seven years Ive had it. Steve
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The bottom pulley bolt is a *mad*ing tight, I think you'd struggle if the engine's out. It is..Tried locking the flywheel with a screwdriver..still could not remove it.. So put a socket and wrench on the pulley bolt,placed a piece of wood on the chassis,placed the wrench on the wood ,disconnected the spark leads and turned the engine over.. TAKE CARE IF YOU DO IT THIS WAY AND MAKE SURE THE WOOD IS IN THE CORRECT POSITION...It was the only way I could do it. Everything else was easy Steve
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Or try Greengauges as Im thinking about, as my speedo's drive is kaput. You can design your own Speedo on the Web Im thinking about either fitting the sensor over the rear prop shaft bolts or to the front wheel. Not sure yet. S
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Mine packed up just before a track day.. *mad*. the speed sensor quill has broken in two and I cant get the bugger out. Decided that I will use one of these gauges here with a magnet fitted to the front wheels. More reliable and I understand easy to fit. Will have a go soon. Steve
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I took mine out for a CRB change and the only thing I found that was a @astard was that the Bell housing would not easily disconnect from the engine . So I found that after rechecking that I had undone all the bolts, if I re connected the clutch cable and press it down hard and fast it separated. I also labelled everything that I removed 1,2,3 etc Good luck Steve Edited by - stevethemook on 6 Sep 2011 20:32:26
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R500 FST in Borough Rd, London.......I was on a retirement do... Hope you did not get wet... Steve
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My speedo packed up on the way to Castle Combe and I have tonight removed the electronic speed sensor from the box . It works when I turn the quill with a drill but I suspect that the quill is a bit shorter and has broken off . Is the quill replaceable on its own or do I have to fork out £50 for a new sensor. Thanks Steve
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I'm with Frank Pickles as they quoted £150 for limited (4500 miles) with two drivers which could have been reduced to £120 if I had agreed to repair the car myself in the event of an accident with them buying the bits. Only thing is they seem very slow with the paperwork ..my address was wrong on the cert and its taken a couple of weeks to sort it.. Steve
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The most important job to do before putting any glue on is the cleaning of the old Glue and muck off the cycle wing.. I spent a good couple of hours until you could just about eat your lunch off it..and (touch wood) mine's been on for over 4 years now. I let mine cure for about 24 hours . I did use the bigheads so that I could adjust the wings.. If you cant get Sikaflex try Tiger Seal adhesive... Steve
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test signature
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Or even buy one of these...Much cheaper..here.. Steve
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I bought mine (a non Gates) from Redline see here although they did send me the wrong type to start with. Have a read .If you are doing the change yourself note I had a little trouble undoing the crank bolt and doing it up to the correct torque but pretty easy job otherwise. Steve
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Hi, I have 195x50x15 Toyo 555 on mine. When I bought them I had to move the cycle wings ever so slightly..This was easy because mine are attached with Tyraps/ Big Head fasteners to the Wing stays.. Steve
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Ive just done an Oil change yesterday and have exactly the same problem..Ok when hot after the oil change and then seemingly too much after a blast. Ive been round this loop 4 times before and in the end have stopped worrying. If you've measured the correct Oil into the engine then surely it must be ok. Finally you could try getting a white piece of paper and dabbing the stick onto it to make sure that you are seeing the correct level..it easy to get it wrong. Steve
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Deciced to to a full oil change today by dropping the sump and changing the Foam..ok I fit one Got the old foam off and noticed one of the threaded holes in the bottom of the Engine that holds the Oil Pick-up pipe was cracked...its the one half way down the pipe. Was thinking about what to do when half of the hole in the casting fell off. *mad*. Decided to attach the Oil Pick-up pipe with the one remaining bolt and put some locktite thread sealant on it . Seems firm enough. Any thoughts about whether it'll be ok..seems like an engine out if not.. Thanks Steve Edited by - stevethemook on 16 May 2011 20:18:52
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Another one here getting intermittent 500 internal sever error..I know when it is coming as it takes ages for BC to load. Mostly clears eventually but can be frustrating .. Tried both IE9 and Firefox 4.0 but had it before with older versions..and with my Andriod brouser Odd one.. STEVE
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Yes Nifty ,I still have the old Spa Mirror .. I have only got one Racetech at the moment to replace the RH side mirror so I can see what its like. I will take a picture later and send it to you.. Cheers Steve
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Thanks all Just received the Racetech Convex type with a pillar mount ..Look nice but they should be for the price. Steve
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Thanks....Should do now Steve
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I know this topic has been posted plenty of times but after much thought and searching through the topics I have decided to ask again. I have the Spa mirrors fitted to the stanchions . I find the design of them pants ..They continually fall over either on the stalk or in the ball joint. Ive tried everything to sort it inluding Locktite and a piece of rubber in the ball joint. I want some decent mirrors I can trust as I will be going on a track day for the first time this Aug. So I have decided to maybe buy some Racetech. Ive seen some nice pictures here but wonder how to attach them to the stanchions. I dont want to use the Racetech mirror mount . Are they any better than the Spa ones 🤔 Thanks Steve Edited by - stevethemook on 9 May 2011 21:49:26
