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sjmmarsh

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Everything posted by sjmmarsh

  1. I think this is a great improvement on the old maps - well done to all involved. It looks like Marcus added some of my old maps to the site, but I have added two of my bigger ones (including the B660 Evo Test road) and found the process quite easy - and better than Tyre which was my go-to program previously. Next step is to see how well it downloads to the SatNavs I have. Steve
  2. I was just about to set of for my garage (10mins away) to get everything ready for the trackday tomorrow when I noticed the text message advising me the trackday was cancelled. It makes sense as there is still lying snow here and I am only 40ish miles away... I just hope that I can make the rescheduled day when it is announced. Steve
  3. sjmmarsh

    wheel nuts

    Why do you think the others have closed nuts....???
  4. Andrew thanks for posting the pics - very clear, useful and an easy mod! I'll have a try, but it will be 12 months before I'll know it has worked (it is infrequent and hard to replicate). My voltage is marginal on tickover, but the two steves commented this was normal when they remapped mine. I haven't noticed any flickering of the ignition light, but every time my hiccup appears my attention is fully on the road ahead as I am overtaking. I don't have anything to monitor the bus though I did have a problem with the alternator wire breaking inside the alternator which gave an intermittent charge. Initial symptoms were the light barely flickering, but over about 300 miles it turned into a full failure, which made for an interesting journey home as it was night time and the engine would stall if the revs went below 2500. Not too bad until I got close to home and had to deal with traffic lights and sleeping residents! Steve
  5. I too am interested in the outcome. I have had intermittent misfires in the past, but these have always cured themselves after a while and some tinkering with the wiring. Check there is no chafing of the coil pack wires under the carbon cam cover, particularly around the hole opposite the heater. The thing that caught my attention was the cough occurring at the same RPM. Since I got my csr 10 years ago, I have had a very intermittent problem under hard acceleration - it feels like the engine hits the limiter when the rpm is around 4000. I have learned that the fix is to momentarily back off the throttle and reapply it - the car then drives through the limiter with no problem. 9 times out of 10 it occurs when I am overtaking on the road and so my priority is to get the power back rather than diagnose it. It only happens a handful of times over the year and I haven't successfully recreated the problem when I want to demonstrate it. My suspicion is that one of the electrical connections is being afffected by a resonant frequency. Steve
  6. I had something similar to Shaky pudding when my car was new. CC gave both bonnet springs a good stretch and hooked them back on the bonnet. Noise gone. it may not work for you, but easy to try. Steve
  7. I bought a CBS one to replace my plastic original one that had failed twice in 3 years, intending to replace it when the original went again. 7 years later I am still waiting.... Steve
  8. sjmmarsh

    Petit strut

    I think this may well be the origin of the Petty Strut. If so, it should be called a Petty's Strut... Taken from the wayback machine as the original page seems to have disappeared. Steve
  9. And again today going past Stamford Boys' school around 4:15pm... Who are you??? Steve
  10. Mine (on a 2007 CSR) are the old style doors. It wasn't a problem until I had the rear wing replaced.. Odd, as the door doesn't foul the wing, so something else must have changed... Steve
  11. JV I meant CR500s. You can still get them. I got my last set from CC at the end of last year. Steve
  12. John. Are CC and BMTR not stocking these now? They were last year. Steve
  13. Eric the CSR can use more oil than other 7s so you need to keep an eye on the levels. Mine uses about 0.5l per 1,000 miles - much more on trackdays. CC issued a technical update on the importance of regular oil checks. Steve
  14. And again today... I waved and gave you the 7 sign. I guess you may not be a member? Steve
  15. Jonathan. Do tell please - it would be a help! Steve
  16. I saw you again today (21/3) turning off Emily's St towards the Ryhall road. Are you local?
  17. I received a PM notification today, but my reply gets the 2 screen messages. One says it has sent, the other says it hasn't. Steve
  18. Background to the the picture I posted Steve
  19. This is why you need a roll bar. It was the standard roll bar and it held up but was slightly squished. The occupants walked away, with the main injury being because the seat belts weren't tight enough, bursting the driver's sternum. Steve
  20. You can also download the owners manual from Caterham Cars website. Steve
  21. Water gets in between the scuttle and the side skin below the windscreen stanchions when it is raining and a little bit would get in there when you wash it. Lifting the carpets (if not stuck down, like mine are) is a good idea. Steve
  22. Tom 18psi cold all round, 21psi hot is a good starting point. Steve
  23. Chris I've done it when I have been running with an aero screen and it was a wet session. The big problem is that you can't see some of the guages including fuel.... Steve
  24. Chris I've done it when I have been running with an aero screen and it was a wet session. The big problem is that you can't see some of the guages including fuel.... Steve
  25. James drop me a PM if you want to go through spanner checks with me in Stamford. The advice you have had above is good - the only thing I would add is that you should get a balaclava for inside the helmet. You'll thank me the next time you have to wear the helmet! The other thing to reiterate is don't put the handbrake on. Heat soak can warp the disks if you do. Steve
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